smalltown
Gold Member
Henri88 glad to read JD is taking care of you. That could have been a hefty bill otherwise!
2305 engine needs to be rebuilt
- Thread starter Henri88
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tomd999
Platinum Member
Hiya,
Glad to hear you are being taken care of.
As far as "Glazed cylinders" I would ask then what the ring end gap was. There are a lot of articles on the web that glazed cylinder walls are caused by oil being "glazed" onto the them by tempature, quality, viscosity and on and on. In reality "glazing" is simply the wearing down of the peaks or filling in the valleys in the crosshatch finish to make a mirror like finish. A properly prepared cylinder will have a uniform crosshatch of no less that 30 and no more than 60 degrees of angle between the pattern lines using a 220 to 320 stone. (45 degrees is considerred standard but the piston ring maker should give the angle and depth you should hone to in the instructions with the ring set as it varies with ring style, coating and material not to mention bore diameter.) The "flatter" the angle the more the rings will "travel" (rotate) in the grooves making for a longer break-in period. (myself, I normally hone to a 50-55 degree angle with a 220 stone set, I like my race engines to run in quick and I don't mind if they use a little oil because if an engine isn't using a little oil, it's not making horsepower.
Since you said that the rings were "seized" in the engine, I take that to mean that the rings were stuck in the grooves preventing them from expanding and contracting in the ring grooves while the piston traveled in the cylinders which could have worn down the crosshatch on the cylinder walls quickly. Also too little ring end gap will also cause this type of wear because when the rings heat to opp temp, the ends will butt and then the ring will expand in diameter, placing high surface loads on the culinder walls.
As always, only a WAG as I haven't seen the engine in question,
Tom
Glad to hear you are being taken care of.
As far as "Glazed cylinders" I would ask then what the ring end gap was. There are a lot of articles on the web that glazed cylinder walls are caused by oil being "glazed" onto the them by tempature, quality, viscosity and on and on. In reality "glazing" is simply the wearing down of the peaks or filling in the valleys in the crosshatch finish to make a mirror like finish. A properly prepared cylinder will have a uniform crosshatch of no less that 30 and no more than 60 degrees of angle between the pattern lines using a 220 to 320 stone. (45 degrees is considerred standard but the piston ring maker should give the angle and depth you should hone to in the instructions with the ring set as it varies with ring style, coating and material not to mention bore diameter.) The "flatter" the angle the more the rings will "travel" (rotate) in the grooves making for a longer break-in period. (myself, I normally hone to a 50-55 degree angle with a 220 stone set, I like my race engines to run in quick and I don't mind if they use a little oil because if an engine isn't using a little oil, it's not making horsepower.
Since you said that the rings were "seized" in the engine, I take that to mean that the rings were stuck in the grooves preventing them from expanding and contracting in the ring grooves while the piston traveled in the cylinders which could have worn down the crosshatch on the cylinder walls quickly. Also too little ring end gap will also cause this type of wear because when the rings heat to opp temp, the ends will butt and then the ring will expand in diameter, placing high surface loads on the culinder walls.
As always, only a WAG as I haven't seen the engine in question,
Tom
OP
Henri88
Platinum Member
Hi Tom! Once again, thanks for the info. I doubt that they even bother looking at the end gap, but I will ask if they did just for the h*** of it. I don't want to slow them down by asking them to go and measure the gap as I am looking forward to get my tractor back. I'm sure you know what I mean.:licking: As for the rings, yes that's what he said, they were stuck in the groove. I ask if it was cause by overheating and he said no. He thought I baby it to much. I have not had the chance to see my engine as it would've been nice to take pictures, but my dealer is 200 miles from here. Now for the degrees of angle of the crosshatch, I assume that Yanmar engine are all standardize when they come of the assembly line, so I don't really see a problem there and if so, well I guess we will never find out. Henri
OP
Henri88
Platinum Member
I didn't even wanted to go there. Don't have a clue of the cost of a short block plus labor but I will eventually find out. They are now waiting for the head that was send to be check. Should be in tomorrow or the day after. Thinks are finally looking up. :thumbsup:
rsewill
Veteran Member
When you get it back, run it hard. Don't baby it at all. Idle it off the trailer, then full throttle and work it hard. Never let it idle for more than a few minutes and figure out a way to keep your RPM's up while you work it. Always.
I had a friend rebuild his Cat D7 and he let it idle for 15 minutes while he checked fluids, etc. Then he worked it but by the it was too late. He had glazed it. He sucked a tablespoon of Bon Ami through the intake, immediately shut it down and did a couple of quick oil changes, then worked it hard. The Bon Ami took care of the glazing.
I've seen a truck seize up when it was left idling in the cold all night. The oil, combined with the bypassed fuel, polymerized, turning into a hard plastic-like material in the oil pan. We had to use a torch to melt it to get it out of the oil pan.
So babying a Diesel is definitely not good for the engine. Get a gasser if you want to idle around.
I had a friend rebuild his Cat D7 and he let it idle for 15 minutes while he checked fluids, etc. Then he worked it but by the it was too late. He had glazed it. He sucked a tablespoon of Bon Ami through the intake, immediately shut it down and did a couple of quick oil changes, then worked it hard. The Bon Ami took care of the glazing.
I've seen a truck seize up when it was left idling in the cold all night. The oil, combined with the bypassed fuel, polymerized, turning into a hard plastic-like material in the oil pan. We had to use a torch to melt it to get it out of the oil pan.
So babying a Diesel is definitely not good for the engine. Get a gasser if you want to idle around.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
well i see truckers idle their righ for hours while pulled into rest stops while they sleep.....why is this ok for them??
Labrat
Gold Member
the engine in your tractor is an idi (indirect injection engine) and has a 160° T stat. I found in the winter even when leaning on the engine it would run around 142° coolant temp because the radiator fan moves enough air to super cool the engine and not allow it to get to operating temp. I replaced my radiator fan with a 14" electric fan and a pwm speed controller and run it at 180°. I initially blocked part of the radiator but that just wasn't enough gadgetry for me.
Also, Excessive idling or insufficient load on an idi engine can cause wet stacking. This means the internal cylinder temp is not high enough to completely burn the fuel this is why most buses and trucks have a high idle switch.
Also, Excessive idling or insufficient load on an idi engine can cause wet stacking. This means the internal cylinder temp is not high enough to completely burn the fuel this is why most buses and trucks have a high idle switch.
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
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I never idle mine at less then 1500 RPM...then, this will get into how long should one idle the engine. For me...once warmed up...I'll let it idle about 5 minute if I'm off the tractor...if I'm going to be off more then 5 minutes, I shut it down.
dodge man
Super Star Member
I'd check your intake system and make sure there aren't any leaks. It could be it got dusted, but I doubt it. The engine not getting hot enough also sounds like a possibility. It could just have been a defective engine also.
scrappy isb67
Gold Member
This applies to ALL diesels! a high idle will help but is not a fix all.
