2320 50HR service stumper

   / 2320 50HR service stumper #11  
If any of you live in a nothern us climate, I would recomend you change out your hydro fluid and use the low vis stuff from JD. You will be doing your tractor a favor in the long run, especially if you use your tractor to move snow.

50 hours on hydro fluid in nothing, but the flush does help to rid any contamination from the assembly line and break in of the unit.

Excellent advice -

I changed mine out at 50 hours (2520) to low vis last winter - made a huge difference in hydraulics/hydro performance when cold.
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Yesterday I performed the 50hr service and I guess it went ok - I didn't break anything. I live in PA and this dealer gave me regular Hyguard. Right before he pulled it off the shelf, he asked me if I keep the tractor in a garage. I asked him if the two of these could be mixed, because I had purchased a gallon of Hydro right after I bought the tractor, and I wasn't sure what type it was. He said "sure no problem". Well when I got home and looked, I had a spare gallon of Low Vis Hydro. I'll use this when I switch over at 200hrs.

When I bought the tractor the dealer told me to check the engine/trans oil before each use. I figured that it wouldn't do me any good to check it if I didn't have anything to put in it. So I stopped by the parts desk and asked for a quart of oil and gallon of fluid for a 2320. This is when I was given the LV Hygard, and he also gave me a quart of 15w-40. Yesterday I used 10w-30 for my oil change. The lesson I have learned is "DON'T go to the dealer and ask the parts guy for "whatever I need for a ..." without doing a little bit of homework first." Double check the manual and if you have any questions, ask someone on this site first!

Has anyone stopped by there dealer and asked if they changed the service HRs on all of there CUTs?

Thanks for your replies.
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper #13  
The only thing I know for sure is the decal on the underside of the hood on my 2320 states, change the Hydro fluid at first 50 hours.
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper #14  
Here's what the screen looked like on my 2520 at 50 hours. I don't think changing the hydro oil and filters is a bad idea at all. Don't forget to pull the plugs on the final drives to get that oil out too, if your machine has them.
 

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   / 2320 50HR service stumper #15  
Here's what the screen looked like on my 2520 at 50 hours. I don't think changing the hydro oil and filters is a bad idea at all. Don't forget to pull the plugs on the final drives to get that oil out too, if your machine has them.

Well I don't think you need much more convincing then that if your on the fence about changing at 50 hrs or not.
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I really wasn't on the fence about whether or not to change everything, I've already seen pictures like Runners on this site before. I was just wondering if JD misprinted the chart under the hood. My tractor probably had less than a half of a teaspoon of metal shavings and the screen looked really good. It's a little late now, but what exactly would be the "final drives"?
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper #17  
gone,

The final drives are the reduction gear boxes in the drive train just inside of the wheels. In my attached picture, you can see the orange plug in the bottom of the left final drive in the background. My 2520 manual did not mention draining these and I missed them on my 50 hour service. By the time I figured out that they contained the same oil that was in the rest of the hydraulic system, it was too late and I already had $65 worth of new oil in there.

For that reason, I will also be doing a "90 hour" hydro oil change on my machine....

Since the publication of my manual, JD has corrected the instructions and now calls for pulling these plugs too. I should have known, but am just too much of a newbie...
 

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   / 2320 50HR service stumper
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Runner,

I removed both of the ones the manual showed. Looks like the same area your talking about. Thanks for the pics.

Newbie? I was the guy always on the hay wagon or in the barn stacking, I never got to mess with the tractors - I had to buy my own;).
 

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   / 2320 50HR service stumper #19  
When I did the 50 hr. on my 2320 in 2006 I changed everything including the front differential oil.
I also drilled out all the plugs and put magnets in them. There were metal fragments on my screen.
I just picked up oil an hydro fluid from my dealer for my 2720 50 hr. He has been around since God was born and he gave me a 5 gallon bucket of LV hydro and 5 quarts of oil (Deere 15W-40 if I remember). I live in a northern climate and run a snow blower here in the winter.
When I did the fluids on my 2320 in 2006 I went with Amsoil for everything but I won't this time. What I found was that the Amsoil has a different coefficient of expansion then the Deere hydro oil and when I went to pull my quick connects apart I used to have to break the line to let some fluid out so I could get the quick connects apart. Also the Amsoil had a more noticeable smell to it then the Deere oil. I'm not sure I think the Deere is a semi-synthetic but I've been told by more then one source that the Deere oil is very good but I don't know whose oil it is.

Rob

ps. I just checked my manual and it says change the hydro at 50 hr.
 
   / 2320 50HR service stumper #20  
I intended to change my hydro oil at 50 hours as the chart and manual stated for my 2520. But when I looked at the manual, the pictures were of some other model tractor, so I waited that day. It took me months to print out the trans section of the more-current on-line manual, and get back at it, and the tractor had 110 hours on it by then. Meanwhile I had added top and tilt cylinders, a new three-spindle valve, about 20 feet of hose, a rake with two of its own cylinders, and a backhoe. All this new hydraulic stuff had been on and off many times and used quite a bit, and each hydraulic component probably added its own share of contaminant to the oil. The day that forced the issue was one where I spent 7 hours moving dirt, probably 40 yards of dirt, with the loader, from an old fenceline and forming a waterway. After that day, I felt I better get the oil changed. I used half and half standard JD oil and low viscosity. It took 17 quarts. The screen had about ten times as much metal on it as the photo by Runner showed.
 

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