2320 Work lights

2Malamutes · Mar 8, 2008

PCABE5 said:
Are you going to run the lights off the factory switch or install another switch to control the aux lights?

I installed a single rear work light and the front 2 work light kit which all run off the factory switch. I figure when I want the lights on, I want all the lights on anyway so no advantage in doing it differently than JD suggests for me.

PCABE5 · Mar 8, 2008

2Malamutes said:
I installed a single rear work light and the front 2 work light kit which all run off the factory switch. I figure when I want the lights on, I want all the lights on anyway so no advantage in doing it differently than JD suggests for me.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? I have my lights laying around and need to install them. I will install a seperate switch on mine due to road travel but they will still power off the factory switch.

PCABE5 · Mar 9, 2008

2Malamutes said:
so no advantage in doing it differently than JD suggests for me.

Did JD tell you that the two kits were not compatible with each other when they suggested you spend your money? There must be a reason they do not recommend both kits at the same time.

Forwarding Lighting Kit (2 Lights)
Requires Light Brush Guard Kit, LVB25016. Not Compatible
with Rear Work Lighting Kit (LVB25547).

LVB25547 Rear Work Light (1 Light)
Includes Wiring Harness. Not Compatible with Forward
Lighting Kit (LVB25546).

2Malamutes · Mar 9, 2008

PCABE5 said:
Did JD tell you that the two kits were not compatible with each other when they suggested you spend your money? There must be a reason they do not recommend both kits at the same time.

Forwarding Lighting Kit (2 Lights)
Requires Light Brush Guard Kit, LVB25016. Not Compatible
with Rear Work Lighting Kit (LVB25547).

LVB25547 Rear Work Light (1 Light)
Includes Wiring Harness. Not Compatible with Forward
Lighting Kit (LVB25546).

There is, but if you go one click further than where you got the above info you'll see this text:

Forward lighting kit
Note: For 2305 and 3203 Tractor, this kit (LVB25546) is not compatible with Rear Work Light Kit (LVB25547).

You'll quickly realize when pulling information from JD's website, or dealers for that matter, that it often pays to do a little checking before making assumptions as JD makes sweeping statements about entire series of tractors without qualifying those statements (as you found out in the hydraulic foray). The 2305 and AFAIK the 3203 differ from the wiring harness on the 2320 in that they only have a single bullet connector for attachment of accessory lights while most models (including the 2320) have 2 or more. The forward lighting kit includes 2 of the Y connectors I show below, but you'll only use one of them on the 2320 even if you also install the rear work light kit.

2Malamutes · Mar 9, 2008

PCABE5 said:
Do you have any pictures of your setup?

I've attached some pics.

In the last shot you can see I ran the wires a little differently than JD suggests. I used the small gap between the ROPS and light housings that mounting the brush guards created to run the wires through the hole on the outside of the ROPS as opposed to snaking tubing around the ROPS to the inside hole. It just looked a little cleaner to me.

PCABE5 · Mar 10, 2008

I like how you installed these to provide light in both directions but leaving the ability to lower the ROPS without affecting the lights. I know you said that you needed this to get in your garage but I need the same flexibility when mowing around some trees. Good job in triming out the wires to look factory installed.

randyvl · Mar 17, 2008

so what is the difference between the front and rear lites..wattage,parabolic, trapazoidal,flood, spot, size (diameter) etc.

I think I will go as Chris2520 did...two front on ROP and two rear on brush guard

my math says..

2 front for $71
1 rear for $46 x 2 = $92

why not buy two sets of front?

Spud67 · Apr 15, 2008

My front and rear work light kits arrived today. It is a rainy cool day here so put the 2330 in the garage and install the new light. I can't wait to see how they look.

Spud67 · Apr 17, 2008

Good thing I went with the factory light kits because I installed the mower last night in the garage and with the ROPS up the tractor will not go in the garage door. Lowered the ROPS, drove in and installed the 54D in about 8 minutes for the very first time.

Tonight I installed the front light kit and tomorrow I may install the rear work light. The lights look and work great.

Have a green day.

Spud67 · Oct 1, 2008

Hello fellow members.

Has anyone installed blinders on the inside edge of teh front work lights? I find doing things with the work lights turned at night, the amount of light on each side of me personally is very bright and if I block the inside edge of the front work lights I can see the work I am doing much better. I have the lights aimed to the outside a little bit but if I go any further then there isn't as much light to the front. I was planning on using some pieces of inner tube and contact cement them to the inside edge of the lights. This way they will act like blinders and bloke the light shinning right on me and I will have better visibility while working at night.
Now that winter is coming and the daylight is fast to fade I need the light more often.

Spud67 · Oct 7, 2008

No one has any thoughts on this?

orlo · Oct 7, 2008

Spud:

I have the same issue on my 2305. I usually turn out the lights so they don't bother me. I might someday try mounting them 90 degrees off so the oval goes up and down instead
of side to side.

One JD dealer told me several folks had cut the bottom of the black part of 2 liter bottles to just fit over the inner part. I guess it fits pretty well. I'm not sure how they fastened it.

It is very annoying. When I had my 3320 I had the lights mounted at the front of the Canopy and that was great. No glare. I do have a canopy on my 2305 but it's more flexible than the one I had on my 3320 and I don't really have a good way to mount them up front. (Unless I extend the metal bracket or something)..

nmu98 · Oct 7, 2008

You could also tape and spray paint (black)any areas that shine down on you. Without seeing it, its hard to give suggestions. Mine are fine, but the cab blocks them....

Spud67 · Oct 8, 2008

My lights are mounted in the factory recommended loacations, just like in the pictures in 2Malamuntes from 03-09-2008, 07:14 PM. I need to come up with something to block some of the light coming from them since they are just behind me on the top of teh bush gaurds on the signal lights mounted ont eh outside of the ROPS. I have no cab or canopy just like the pics on 2Malamutes pictures.

ScottK · Oct 11, 2008

How about sitting on a phone book?

I'm 6'-2" and don't have any problem with the lights in my eyes when I look behind me. Seriously though, some people turn the brush guards upside down and then the lights can hang from below them.

bxowner · Oct 12, 2008

I took a pair of unused trailer license plates (in Vermont, they're about 4"x6", aluminum and light weight) and a set of long plastic zip ties. By slipping the aluminum license plate (with a band of electrical tape, to keep from vibrating/rusting) between the lamp and the roll bar, I've created a shield that protects my eyesight, while still proving full forward illumination. The square roll bar makes easy to leverage the plate against a flat surface and allows the zip tie to tighten it in place. Simple and works great.

bxowner · Oct 12, 2008

If you hit your mouse on the picture above, you can zoom in to see the set-up better. Note the license plate had holes on the edge, which made it easy to zip tie - and, by putting the shiny side toward the light, it reflects the illumination. The color of the license plate is mere coincidence...