JSharp
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 508
- Location
- Central Illinois. No, not Chicago.
- Tractor
- IH 404, Cub GT 2554
Well, I tried to mow today. I got 3 passes and noticed the left rear deck wheel laying on the ground thanks to the shoulder bolt/axle breaking. I figured I'd run the deck wash anyway and noticed one headlight out and the other one flickering...
More for the dealer to fix when they come pick it up. I'm done fixing things for the 2 remaining years of my warranty. I've already done a number of repairs on this mower not limited to the POS press in zerks and straightening out the steering wheel after the steering recall.
Here's a few photos for those not familiar with how the '06 2500 series is setup. You can see the oil cooler I added to the Kohler and see that there no ducting of any kind to the engine cooling fan inlet.
It just draws air from where it can and sends it over the engine after exiting the engine shrouding. No ducting in, no ducting out. No control of airflow at all and no way to keep the hot underhood air from being drawn back into the cooling fan or into the engine intake.
What we have here in effect is a heat source with fan, the engine, and an almost closed "box" that is the hood. Opening the lower rear sides of the box and adding a few louvers to the top of it doesn't change the fact that there's not enough air actually being forced through the box by the cooling fan with no ducting arraingment nor does the cooling fan or carb inlet have direct access to cool air. They just pull in whatever is under the hood. And if that's hot re-circulated air, then that's what they get. Ultimately some gets out of course. We see that in the burned spots on our lawns. But judging by the temp readings I've taken, it's not nearly enough IMO.
Folks are free to believe my temp readings or not. They're as real as they can be. They were taken with an almost new Raytek MT-6 IR thermometer and an older remote thermistor thermometer made my Computemp. And I've been designing and implementing instrumentation since the 70's so I do have some idea how these things work.
One thing I'm pretty sure of though - The *many* folks that have had hoods melt and the others that are already seeing high oil consumption at low hours are likely to believe me...
Here's a few photos for those not familiar with how the '06 2500 series is setup. You can see the oil cooler I added to the Kohler and see that there no ducting of any kind to the engine cooling fan inlet.
It just draws air from where it can and sends it over the engine after exiting the engine shrouding. No ducting in, no ducting out. No control of airflow at all and no way to keep the hot underhood air from being drawn back into the cooling fan or into the engine intake.
What we have here in effect is a heat source with fan, the engine, and an almost closed "box" that is the hood. Opening the lower rear sides of the box and adding a few louvers to the top of it doesn't change the fact that there's not enough air actually being forced through the box by the cooling fan with no ducting arraingment nor does the cooling fan or carb inlet have direct access to cool air. They just pull in whatever is under the hood. And if that's hot re-circulated air, then that's what they get. Ultimately some gets out of course. We see that in the burned spots on our lawns. But judging by the temp readings I've taken, it's not nearly enough IMO.
Folks are free to believe my temp readings or not. They're as real as they can be. They were taken with an almost new Raytek MT-6 IR thermometer and an older remote thermistor thermometer made my Computemp. And I've been designing and implementing instrumentation since the 70's so I do have some idea how these things work.
One thing I'm pretty sure of though - The *many* folks that have had hoods melt and the others that are already seeing high oil consumption at low hours are likely to believe me...



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