2555 running cold

[IH782]

I have noticed that most people with the 2555 say the engine runs cold. One thing to note is that EGR valves love to soot up if the tractor is not run to operating temp or left idling for extended periods. If this happens on the 2555 you will get a MIL light and code P049D: Exhaust Gas Recirculation 'A' Control Position Exceeded Learning Limit.

 

[jmh1783]

I've been a bit perplexed by the heater light. As mentioned it does seem to come on even when the engine is hot if you restart. I figured it was just on a dumb timer. Depending on the temp I'll give it some time before trying to start cold. When hot I just wait for 10 seconds for the "boot up" to complete. As I mentioned before after the computer update, the temp gauge does seem to rise much more quickly. I haven't tried touching the block however.

 

[Glrret]

I ran my 2555 this past weekend for 2 hours at PTO speed powering my wood chipper. When I got done I idled the engine down for about 2 or 3 minutes then turned it off. Right away I opened the hood, removed the side panel and put my hand on the radiator... it was cold, I could have left my hand there indefinably, all the hoses, for both the coolant and hydraulics were cold, not cold like over night cold, but not warm either.

So on Monday I cut 2 peaces of thin plastic sheet like shower wall sheet, one for the coolant radiator and the other for the hydraulic radiator, I cut a 7 inch hole in the center of both and attached them to the radiator screens. I then went back out and used the chipper at the same PTO speed and time. The results were that the engine ran much warmer but them again not what I would consider normal temp. The gauge was just a fraction below normal. I was able to hold my hand on the coolant radiator for a few seconds without any burning sensations. However my cab heater was not blowing warm air.... not hot air but warm.

 

[JerryK]

Round hole or square hole....??? I was going to make one for mine this weekend and was thinking 10" round centered on the fan, place just forward of the radiator screen. Thinking of using blaze orange corrugated plastic [ cardboard like stuff ].. so maybe I can remember to remove it.

 

[Glrret]

I made a 7 inch round hole centered on the fan

 

[JerryK]

Thanks, I am going to start small and work up... now that I look at it, I might put it right in front of the radiator behind the debris screen so it can't just suck around the screen perimeter. [ I'm retired, I have time to putter, I mean do important investigative research.. ]

 

[JerryK]

Used some foam sign board from the Wally, little over three dollars with Michigan tax. ' My ' dimensions were 18 3/4" wide by 19 3/8" to inside the foam the screen sets against right up against the aluminum radiator core. I put a 12" hole centered 9" up from the bottom, which centers it on the fan. The stock radiator area is about 363 square inches, and this cuts the area down to about 113 square inches. The foam should be soft enough that it will not harm the aluminum core structure. Anywhilst, I give it a try if and when we get some snow...

 

[Glrret]

I think your hole is going to be to large. I made a 7 inch hole and I'm seeing about 2/3rds of the results I wanted.

 

[JerryK]

Might be, can't tell until I get some snow to work it. If your 7" hole is forward of the screen, the fan can suck a lot of air around in behind the screen... plus crud... Putting it against the radiator corralled by the foam [ factory installed to help seal the screen ] pretty much keeps air only being able to go thru the center hole, and keeps the screen in play to stop bigger leaves/chaft/etc. It's all theory at this point... We just have to keep at it and find a solution.

 

[jb1390]

I ran my 2555 this past weekend for 2 hours at PTO speed powering my wood chipper. When I got done I idled the engine down for about 2 or 3 minutes then turned it off. Right away I opened the hood, removed the side panel and put my hand on the radiator... it was cold, I could have left my hand there indefinably, all the hoses, for both the coolant and hydraulics were cold, not cold like over night cold, but not warm either.

So on Monday I cut 2 peaces of thin plastic sheet like shower wall sheet, one for the coolant radiator and the other for the hydraulic radiator, I cut a 7 inch hole in the center of both and attached them to the radiator screens. I then went back out and used the chipper at the same PTO speed and time. The results were that the engine ran much warmer but them again not what I would consider normal temp. The gauge was just a fraction below normal. I was able to hold my hand on the coolant radiator for a few seconds without any burning sensations. However my cab heater was not blowing warm air.... not hot air but warm.

I'm very curious the actual temperature of the coolant. Do you have a meter with a thermocouple, that you could install in the upper radiator hose? When I did that on my 3550, the temp was very low - until I installed the restrictor in the EGR coolant bleed hose. I know the engines are a bit different between these models, but I'm curious if the engine is ever getting up to temp.

 

[Glrret]

The air flow limiters I added to the hydraulic and coolant radiators are connected to the screens so that no air or crud can not get around them. I drilled holes in the screen frame and used small zip ties to secure the air blocks, they are tight and secure.

 

[JerryK]

Sounds like you did good. When the weather gets colder and we get some good snow I will put her to work and see. Mine warmed up pretty good last time I used it to work my drive and bring wood into the barn, but that was months ago... I was using my 5035 the rest of the time. Getting ready to store that one in the back of the barn for winter, maybe tomorrow...

 

[Glrret]

With all of these work arounds we are doing just to get the tractors to run at the normal operation temperatures, I hope Mahindra is paying attention and comes up with a more permanent fix.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm very curious the actual temperature of the coolant. Do you have a meter with a thermocouple, that you could install in the upper radiator hose? When I did that on my 3550, the temp was very low - until I installed the restrictor in the EGR coolant bleed hose. I know the engines are a bit different between these models, but I'm curious if the engine is ever getting up to temp.

YES! (Need actual data.)

I would suspect that a radiator cover won't do a whole lot, especially if the tractor is not moving: tractors don't move all that fast, so not a lot of air flow, though if there are winds then, yes, blocking would help with that situation. I'd be careful about affecting any HST functions (hydraulic coolers): no idea whether this even applies to the model of concern in this thread.

Might see if Mahindra specs a warmer thermostat. I know that EricTheOracle went through trying to get temps up on his Kioti NX6010HC; I believe he figured success from installing a higher opening thermostat.

Does Mahindra (or anyone?) have factory covers? If they don't then they likely have a reason for that.

 

[dickfoster]

YES! (Need actual data.)

I would suspect that a radiator cover won't do a whole lot, especially if the tractor is not moving: tractors don't move all that fast, so not a lot of air flow, though if there are winds then, yes, blocking would help with that situation. I'd be careful about affecting any HST functions (hydraulic coolers): no idea whether this even applies to the model of concern in this thread.

Might see if Mahindra specs a warmer thermostat. I know that EricTheOracle went through trying to get temps up on his Kioti NX6010HC; I believe he figured success from installing a higher opening thermostat.

Does Mahindra (or anyone?) have factory covers? If they don't then they likely have a reason for that.

Don't forget that the fan pulls air though the radiator so blocking the radiator moving or not will help warm things up.

 

[Glrret]

I've seen a significant improvement in the engine temperature now that I have added the airflow limiters in front of both radiators... The engine warms up much faster but it don't seem to be over heating any. The real test is going to be when the temperature drops to single digits and below this winter.

 

[holeycow]

If you make some canvases your problem will likely be solved. For those of you that think this covering rads and tarping in engine bays is a micky- mouse solution, you haven't run cold-blooded diesels in cold weather. These techniques have been used in very cold climates for a very long time. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. Anybody up here with a clue knows that.

 

[Glrret]

If you make some canvases your problem will likely be solved. For those of you that think this covering rads and tarping in engine bays is a micky- mouse solution, you haven't run cold-blooded diesels in cold weather. These techniques have been used in very cold climates for a very long time. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. Anybody up here with a clue knows that.

When you use canvas, what do you cover?

When I was a youngster on the farm my grandfather had an old open station international and in the winter he had a canvas cover that covered the entire front of the tractor and it came back around the operators deck. The canvas went over the top of the hood and hung down the sides with straps that went under their engine. On warmer days he would undo the straps and roll the sides up to expose the side and let the heat out.

One thing I was thinking of was something like a big horse blanket that I could wrap the whole front half of the tractor up to the cab.

 

[JerryK]

Or a warm woman..... that might do it, yup, that may be it.... keep your mind off your temp gauge, the tractor one, that is... [ if this tractor is a rockin, don't come a knockin... ]

 

[holeycow]

cover the areas where the air comes in to the engine bay, and cover the areas where the air goes out. You are trying to create a still-air space around the engine. I should do the same for my Kioti....

wrapping the whole hood would probably work but is unsightly. The underside is wide open and is a large heat-loss area. You might want to tarp the underside first and see how that works...meaning work it from the bottom up, not the top down.

pita, but once you have it set-up it won't be so bad.

You are in no danger as long as the temp gauge works