2nd solenoid????

[BlackOps]

ok i have maybe 175 hrs on a 10 yr old max 25. i take care of it. 5 yrs ago i had to put a new solenoid on it. today tried to start and turns over and clicks and stops just like before. think it is the solenoid again? why would it break after such little use - and this is not a beater construction tractor. It is a personal home tiny farm tractor that i only use and not abuse. thank you. $300+ more invested into this thing to replace it. damn.

 

[Joe Hickerson]

Sounds more like not enough current....battery connections or ground to tractor. Has the battery been changed in the 10 year ownership?

Joe, where it's cold and the snow is deep!!

 

[Harry in Ky]

Regardless of hours, the tractor is definitely old enough for the dreaded solenoid "click click click syndrome". Sounds very much like a good candidate for the extra starter relay kit. Easiest way to tell is to test the starter with a jumper wire. I say "easiest" provided you can even get to the starter. With loader/frames, hood, side shields, and the "Safety Sam" plastic cover on the starter it can be a challenge. Locate and remove the signal wire to the starter. It's usually a 12 or 14 gauge wire with a spade type push on terminal. I keep a handful of "test wires", short lengths of wire with both male and female spade terminals on one end just for this purpose. Push one end onto the spade on the starter. Transmission in neutral, key switch OFF, touch the bare end of the wire to battery positive post/stud on the starter. Just make contact for a second, let go and repeat. If you get the same result (click click) you have a battery, cable/connection, or even possible starter problem. On the other hand, if the starter engages first time every time, you have a signal voltage problem. You might consider adding another relay to eliminate that issue. It's a very common problem. John Deere actually makes and sells a kit to do just that. A bit spendy at their price, but you can do the same thing with a parts house relay, some wire, and a few terminals.

John Deere Starting Improvement Relay Kit - AM107421

www.greenpartstore.com

 

[BlackOps]

thank you for the reply. that is way beyond my means and ability sorry to say.

another question: the dielectric grease - do you actually put some into the connection points area or just use it after the connections are done? as in coat the outside of the connection...

 

[Harry in Ky]

I'm sorry if I overloaded you. I assumed if you are capable of replacing the solenoid you could probably accomplish this repair as well. While I'm not a fan of videos as all that great a means of gathering experience, there are some that actually provide accurate and usable information. Here is one that shows the installation of this relay in enough detail it should be easy enough to follow. The fuse he used is overkill (in my opinion) and something I don't do, but there we are. Other than that point, what he did will pretty much apply to most any engine or tractor with this problem. After watching it, you might feel like giving it a try, or maybe you have a friend that's capable of doing it. It's not all that hard.

Google Search

 

[BlackOps]

ahhh OK thank you -

re: the battery - it is brand new thisend of summer.

i am not stupid - ust do not have all of the metric stuff and as you said there is so much in the way to access anything it seems like.

it does crank over as such and then stops with the click - same as before.

just seems like it should have lasted a few more years...

thank you so much!!!!!

 

[grsthegreat]

Sorry, but that sounds like battery to me. Remove battery and have store load test it if you dont have your own tester. It should be tested at 50% of listed cold cranking amps for 20 seconds to pass test. Also, check all battery wire connections. Should not be able to twist any connection by hand. Check for corrosion.

 

[grsthegreat]

Just because battery is new dont mean squat. Depends on how long its sat

 

[BlackOps]

yes it was charged and the same thing. also the connections are greased so all contacts are good.
if the battery was not that good it wouldn;t have even turned it over like it did momentarily.

like i said symptoms are ust like when the solenoid needed to be replaced.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Like I said, you need to "jump" test the starter. It's a lot easier than trying to read the voltage down there at the signal wire while attempting to start it. The solenoid may well be perfectly serviceable, but if the signal wire is only delivering five to eight volts, it won't work.

 

[grsthegreat]

yes it was charged and the same thing. also the connections are greased so all contacts are good.
if the battery was not that good it wouldn;t have even turned it over like it did momentarily.

like i said symptoms are ust like when the solenoid needed to be replaced.

When a battery cannot carry a load, thats the exact thing that happens. The engine will briefly turn over then the clicking starts. It happens everytime a batter goes bad. Voltage on battery means nothing. Its voltage while under a load, such as trying to start, that matters.

 

[CoyPatton]

yes it was charged and the same thing. also the connections are greased so all contacts are good.
if the battery was not that good it wouldn;t have even turned it over like it did momentarily.

like i said symptoms are ust like when the solenoid needed to be replaced.

Sorry to tell you this, but that old thing of smearing grease on battery contacts regardless of which contact—battery post, ground at frame, or starter connection—introduced moisture into the connection and starts corrosion. Clean that mess off then use a degreaser or brake clean on all parts. Keep the connections clean and do a regular close visual inspection.

 

[tbarrick]

ok i have maybe 175 hrs on a 10 yr old max 25. i take care of it. 5 yrs ago i had to put a new solenoid on it. today tried to start and turns over and clicks and stops just like before. think it is the solenoid again? why would it break after such little use - and this is not a beater construction tractor. It is a personal home tiny farm tractor that i only use and not abuse. thank you. $300+ more invested into this thing to replace it. damn.

I have not read ALL the replies, but don't overlook the battery cables. Corrosion can occur in the insulated jacket and the cable will look fine but create a scenario that points to the solenoid. you can use one side of jumper cables to connect the positive to the battery to the power of the starter. Get on machine and start as normal so as to activate all safety switches. If fixed, either replace cable or cut the end off and reinstall new battery clamp on the end. The fault is usually in the first half inch of battery end of cable. If not solved, by hand, unhook battery cable from starter / relay, and with tractor IN NEUTRAL or an operator on machine with clutch in and out of gear, touch the jumper cable to the starter pole side of solenoid and the machine should turn over instantly. This will tell you that the issue is on the solenoid portion of the circuit. I guess you might also check the battery by jumping the normal way or from a battery charger as well. If this solves the issue than the battery most likely is the culprit.

 

[kneedeep]

New batteries don’t last long anymore.
When the dreaded clickclickclick starts on my Mahindra,
Usually end up with new battery and cables.
If battery is hot, may be a starter going bad.
Find a starter repair sop if possible.

 

[jgmo]

Agree with possible bad battery cables or poor ground. An EZ way of finding both faults is through the use of a thing called "voltage drop testing". It is actually very simple and quick UNLESS you talk yourself into thinking it's too hard or that you're not "smart enough". Believe me, you ARE smart enough because I can do it so....
...so can you!

It's a "magic" way to "see" under the wire insulation and between any and all connections.

I've seen "like new" looking battery cables turn into mostly green powder when the insulation was removed.

Many very good voltage drop tutorials on YouTube.. Don't talk yourself out of learning....and TRYING...something very useful.

Also, agree with "new battery" is no guarantee. Remember, new, these days, breaks down as:
N-ever E-ver W-orked.

Good luck.

 

[qualsite]

As with any electrical problem, start checking the voltages all along the current path, starting with the source [the battery] and at every connection point along the path, of course, while trying to start, to see where you are getting the voltage loss. At the point you see a substantial voltage loss under load, that's your "bottleneck" that needs to be fixed... and yes, there may be multiple spots. And don't forget the ground path too, first putting the meter's negative at the battery, and then if that's OK, move the negative probe to a good ground on the starter.
And yes, the quickest check is just to short the solenoid battery terminal to the starter positive feed with a screwdriver, which bypasses the solenoid contacts and will at least let you know that the battery and primary cable are OK.

 

[moveit]

ok i have maybe 175 hrs on a 10 yr old max 25. i take care of it. 5 yrs ago i had to put a new solenoid on it. today tried to start and turns over and clicks and stops just like before. think it is the solenoid again? why would it break after such little use - and this is not a beater construction tractor. It is a personal home tiny farm tractor that i only use and not abuse. thank you. $300+ more invested into this thing to replace it. damn.

I recently had a similar problem and replaced starter, solenoid, battery and battery cables which didn't help but then I found a loose ground wire hiding behind the engine and front loader frame that just came apart when I touched it. Replaced it and now problem fixed. Starts and runs better than ever.
The ground connected two parts of the frame which I would not have guessed.

 

[Page2]

Get the starter relay kit Harry was talking about. I've used those kits on a bunch of tractors in the past and it always worked, you're getting a voltage drop somewhere and this'll take care of it. All my Kubota's got this kit as a matter of course. Amazon has an aftermarket kit that's quite a bit cheaper - Amazon.com

 

[RjCorazza]

Get the starter relay kit Harry was talking about. I've used those kits on a bunch of tractors in the past and it always worked, you're getting a voltage drop somewhere and this'll take care of it. All my Kubota's got this kit as a matter of course. Amazon has an aftermarket kit that's quite a bit cheaper - Amazon.com

Can't beat the price on that one.
I wired my own for my diesel zero turns, and made up this diagram :

 

[BlackOps]

not ignoring all of your comments... just one long busy day taking care of other urgent matters today. thanks.