3/0 Wire stripper/cutter?

[parhamfarms2615]

 

[parhamfarms2615]

This is what you need^.4way Southwire skinner.heads are interchangeable. 1/0,2/0,350mcm,#2,#4,#6,3/0.all are available

 

[parhamfarms2615]

 

[parhamfarms2615]

These are the cutters you need to cut the cable

 

[dstig1]

I have a set similar to these, but they sure weren't THAT expensive! :confused2: Handles about 18" long. I have used a sawzall with fine tooth metal blade too.
Gardner Bender Manual Cable Cutter up to 5 MCM-GC-5 - The Home Depot

I always used a VERY sharp utility knife to strip the big cables. Didn't even know they had dedicated strippers, but it makes sense for those in the trade.

 

[handirifle]

This is probably the last time I will do anything with this cable, so I am trying to keep tool cost low. Thanks for the research though.

 

[mbohuntr]

This is probably the last time I will do anything with this cable, so I am trying to keep tool cost low. Thanks for the research though.

To strip that cable, I carefully run a utility knife around the jacket, taking care not to touch the wire, and then cut from the ring to the end. take the end of your finger nail, or a small thin flat blade and pry the insulation apart where you cut the end. It should spread apart, then peel like a orange.

 

[chim]

To strip that cable, I carefully run a utility knife around the jacket, taking care not to touch the wire, and then cut from the ring to the end. take the end of your finger nail, or a small thin flat blade and pry the insulation apart where you cut the end. It should spread apart, then peel like a orange.

I stripped cable ends for many years and that's what I normally did. Now that I'm out of the field we have all sorts of tools today for cutting and stripping when working with dozens of cables in switchgear, but for a few here and there a cutter like dstig1 mentioned and a good knife are all I'd want to mess with. If I wouldn't have access to a real cutter, I'd grab a hacksaw (or more likely my 20V DeWalt bandsaw) to lop it off. I love the bandsaw for anything I can use it on because it doesn't bounce around like my recip saw.

We recently bought 3 or 4 of these stripping tools for the guys in the field. For some reason, the kit doesn't cover all the sizes we use, so for each kit we bought an extra bare tool, empty box and I think 4 cutters. They get sent to the job sites as two-box kits. That way two men can be working on separate feeds (of different sizes) in the same gear, or when there are multiple parallel feeds, one tool can be set up for phase conductors and the other for grounds.:

DEWALT DCE151TD1 2V MAX XR Cordless Cable Stripper Kit - - Amazon.com

We have a selection of different cutters, crimpers, KO tools, including these. I think we have 4 of the Ridgid kits plus some oddball stuff from DeWalt and Milwaukee:

RIDGID RE6 Electrical Tool Kit w/ Cutter, Dieless Crimp Head and Swiv-L-Punch 5293 - Ohio Power Tool

Greenlee ESG5L11 Gator Battery-Powered Cable Cutter with 12V Charger - Wire Rope Cutters - Amazon.com

 

[lennyzx11]

Question, on my home the ground wire does not have to be as heavy as the hot leads, are battery systems the same way or should they all be the same size? All my cable is black, but I will cover ground wires with appropriate colored tape, either white or red, have not decided.

I did't see anyone actually answer your question.
It is Yes. They must be the same size in a DC system.

The AC system uses the neutral as the return which is the same size as the hot wires as one gentleman did note earlier.

Standard coloring code
AC
Hot = Black
Neutral = White
Ground = Green or Green/Yellow

DC
Positive = Red
Negative = Black

It is a common practice to wrap a band of the correct color of tape around each wire at each connection point if the color of the wire used is not the "correct" color.
ie. using a white wire as a traveler to a switch and back would have a band of black tape wrapped at each end to signify that it's being used as a Hot wire.

 

[s219]

To strip that cable, I carefully run a utility knife around the jacket, taking care not to touch the wire, and then cut from the ring to the end. take the end of your finger nail, or a small thin flat blade and pry the insulation apart where you cut the end. It should spread apart, then peel like a orange.

Yeah, that's how I do it and it works just fine. I keep telling myself I use that wire so rarely I don't need a special tool. Probably made 20-30 connections with it in the last 3-4 years, so if the trend continues I should revisit my decision. But I am also running out of structures and outbuildings to electrify....