3 hrs on 2015 NX4510 and check engine light is on after missing Regeneration

[MinnesotaEric]

I was going to post an introduction tonight after I put a couple hours on my new tractor brush hogging. Unfortunately that has been cut short by a check engine light. I was running a brush hog at around 1700 RPM with pto cruise. The regeneration light came on, I did not realize what it was at first so I slowed down the PTO. The dealer did explain I just forgot at the time. I sat idle for a couple minutes trying to figure out what the light was on my phone. While I was sitting still the check engine light came on.

The dealer had said under light load I might see the dpf regeneration at 50 hours, so I am a little confused why it would be on at 3 hours. I did let it idle for a long time this morning afternoon since it was cold. I guess my question is should I try and follow the process for the dpf to see if the engine light goes off? Park, run it for a few minutes then press the regeneration button. Wait 30 to 40 minutes. The tractor starts fine, temp never went up, I did not notice any issues other than the light being on.

Any help would be appreciated.

I end up regenerating my tractor about every eight to fifteen hours. You should start the tractor, warm it up, rev it up and hit the regeneration button.

 

[paulfun9]

Have you read the owners manual? Check the troubleshooting section and read carefully threw all other sections, there really is a lot of info in most owners manuals especially for new operators.

 

[paulfun9]

I end up regenerating my tractor about every eight to fifteen hours. You should start the tractor, warm it up, rev it up and hit the regeneration button.

Wow that really makes me happy I got a new tractor before all the tier 3 and I4 models were gone! Every 8 to fifteen hours you have to spend 30 min or so waiting on a regen cycle ?

 

[paulfun9]

I am not rocking the boat at all just missing out on the 20 hours of wasted time and fuel for regen cycles based on your post that I would have had to contend with. That is 20 hours at what ever charge you or I would have for our machines add that to the added cost of the tier 4 crap that's included in your machine when you bought it and then add that again to the projected increased cost (yes IMHO I predict an added repair cost that is yet to be determined to all tier 4 machines) and again I am glad I purchased before they were gone!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I am not rocking the boat at all just missing out on the 20 hours of wasted time and fuel for regen cycles based on your post that I would have had to contend with. That is 20 hours at what ever charge you or I would have for our machines add that to the added cost of the tier 4 crap that's included in your machine when you bought it and then add that again to the projected increased cost (yes IMHO I predict an added repair cost that is yet to be determined to all tier 4 machines) and again I am glad I purchased before they were gone!

You can use the machine while it is regenerating, you just need to keep the rpm up (switch off linked throttle, set the throttle higher). I think it is a total pile that this has been forced onto us and as soon as my life slows down, I'll make a bypass and then tell others how to do it too.

 

[murph1]

You can use the machine while it is regenerating, you just need to keep the rpm up (switch off linked throttle, set the throttle higher). I think it is a total pile that this has been forced onto us and as soon as my life slows down, I'll make a bypass and then tell others how to do it too.

You go guy!!!:thumbsup:

 

[ToSoon]

I end up regenerating my tractor about every eight to fifteen hours. You should start the tractor, warm it up, rev it up and hit the regeneration button.

Ok thank you I am going to try it later today when the temp warms up a little bit. I really think I just wimped around way to much because of being to careful and being a rookie. The dealer did say they like to be worked hard. But on a side note I actually read a lot of the posts on your 6010 when deciding what tractor to get.

Sorry to be so specific but just so I am doing this correctly. The book is pretty vague.

I am going to warm it up for 10-15 minutes due to it being just around freezing. Is that at idle? or should I have the RPMs a little higher?
Then increase the RPMs to 2k +, and hit the regeneration button?
At that point I just let it run for another 30-40 minutes while it does its job?

Paul: Yes I did read the entire owners manual before I drove it. The portion on the regeneration cycle is literally a couple sentences, and I did not think I would see it the first day. The manual says on page 4-39 "Also, for light load work, select 2nd gear (540E) position and set the engine speed to 1800 RPM to obtain 540 RPM at the PTO speed." My mistake was it was for EU/AU manual. I had a lot to remember and I got that part wrong.

Thank you for everyone offering help. I woke up with that check engine light on my mind.

 

[countrybumpkin]

You can use the machine while it is regenerating, you just need to keep the rpm up (switch off linked throttle, set the throttle higher). I think it is a total pile that this has been forced onto us and as soon as my life slows down, I'll make a bypass and then tell others how to do it too.

Do you have to hit the regen switch while your working to start the process ? I've yet to use mine so I have no idea how it will work yet. My owners manual is very vague on the process. If I remember right even has something wrong in it about the two dash lights. (Regen & exhaust temp)

 

[IslandTractor]

When running a PTO driven implement (on any tractor) you should run the engine at PTO speed - probably around 2600 RPM - and adjust ground speed via your transmission. That does not mean you should start/engage the implement at PTO speed, though. Always engage the implement at the lowest possible RPM and then slowly bring the throttle up to PTO speed for working.

If you have been running at 1700 RPM while using a rotary cutter you are lugging the engine unnecessarily and your cutter is not spinning/running/cutting at anywhere near the correct speed.

Speaking in general terms, higher RPM - whether idling or working - is a must with the new Tier IV engines.

This is over stated. I have close to 500 trouble free hrs on my DK40 and rarely run the engine at PTO speed. I mow frequently at 2100 or so and the tractor does just fine. If I start to bog down I simply either increase engine speed or slow down mowing speed.

It is true that the diesel engine is most efficient at around PTO speed but if you don't need that much power then there is no reason to run it so fast. Of course a finish mower might be more fussy to get the best cut but for routine pasture mowing and light/medium bush hogging PTO engine speed is not strictly required.

Perhaps there are some subtleties regarding the Tier 4 emissions equipment but the basic engine does fine at lower than PTO speed.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Do you have to hit the regen switch while your working to start the process ? I've yet to use mine so I have no idea how it will work yet. My owners manual is very vague on the process. If I remember right even has something wrong in it about the two dash lights. (Regen & exhaust temp)

ToSoon, and Country,

The regen cycle can be skipped up to three times before the tractor tries to regenerate itself. I've never had this happen. My last regeneration cycle the tractor was at idle and started running messed up, getting back in to find out the problem, I saw the regeneration light was on, and so I kicked up the engine to 2000 rpm and hit the regeneration button.

Anyway, the tractor will light up the regeneration light on the dash to let you know when to burn the collected soot off of the exhaust filter (regenerate). When the light comes on, set the engine throttle to 1700 rpm or higher and hit the regeneration switch. The regeneration cycle is completed when the regeneration light pom the dash turns off.

TooSoon, if you've read the "My NX6010" thread, you'll know that one of my issues is that my tractor takes too long to warm up and that I swapped out my thermostat for a warmer T-stat to shorten warm up times. I have not been able to test this set up under high loads in hot, summer weather but so far the temperature regulates at the same temp as the stock set-up (temp gauge needle pointing straight up).