3 point hitch - general question

[tcweb]

I have a Ford 5000. I am fairly new to tractors (7'ish years), so forgive me if this is a newbie question.

See my pics below - I'm trying to get an optimal angle on my brushhog (84"), so that it won't bog down the tractor.
I can't adjust the center link much more (mashed threads!), so am I correct that moving the center link down to the next hole on the tractor is the right answer? Or should the hole be selected to so that the center link is as level as possible to the implement? (and if so, in the down or up position)?

basically, what is the point of the 3 center link attachment holes?



Thanks in advance,

-Tom

 

[i7win7]

The draft control valve is at the top. Ground engaging implments (plows, chisels, subsoilers) will use the lower top link hole. Mowers, rakes typically use the upper hole. On the transmission you should have a lever to select 3pt positional control or draft (drag) control. When in draft control the 3pt lever drops or raises 3pt, no intermediate settings like positional control

The rpm gauge should have a pto mark. Are you running near max rpm? You may need to mow in lower gear or replace top link turn buckle. Mower should have parts that flex so top attachment is not solid. Some users will replace top link with section of chain so rear of mower can float.

 

[ericm979]

The lower holes make the implement tilt forward more as you raise it, or tilt down more as you lower it.

BTW top links are generic and cheap.

 

[sea2summit]

If an 84" mower is bogging down a 60 PTO HP tractor I think the solution is probably slower ground speed.

 

[tcweb]

If an 84" mower is bogging down a 60 PTO HP tractor I think the solution is probably slower ground speed.

Maybe, but it just seems to be bogging down a lot more than the first few years I owned it. I cut in 4th gear mostly, and that hasn't changed. I know that a brush hot is not supposed to cut clean, so I'm not thinking It's blade sharpening. Gearbox looks OK, oil level OK. We have a LOT of dense weeds and a few fields that I cannot reach if the ground has been wet...so we may only mow some of our fields 1-2x/year. By that time, there are some 1/2" trees and some other woody plants that are pushing 6'.

I did lower the center link to the middle hole, and that seems to help a lot.

I will look to replace the center link, or at least repair the one I have. I may be able to chase the threads and get it working properly.

Am I correct to believe that the rear of the brushhog should be 3-4" higher than the front? To allow grass to be thrown rearward, and not just pulled along under the brushhog?

 

[Doughknob]

If an 84" mower is bogging down a 60 PTO HP tractor I think the solution is probably slower ground speed.

Or a tractor tune-up is needed.........

 

[sea2summit]

Maybe, but it just seems to be bogging down a lot more than the first few years I owned it. I cut in 4th gear mostly, and that hasn't changed. I know that a brush hot is not supposed to cut clean, so I'm not thinking It's blade sharpening. Gearbox looks OK, oil level OK. We have a LOT of dense weeds and a few fields that I cannot reach if the ground has been wet...so we may only mow some of our fields 1-2x/year. By that time, there are some 1/2" trees and some other woody plants that are pushing 6'.

I did lower the center link to the middle hole, and that seems to help a lot.

I will look to replace the center link, or at least repair the one I have. I may be able to chase the threads and get it working properly.

Am I correct to believe that the rear of the brushhog should be 3-4" higher than the front? To allow grass to be thrown rearward, and not just pulled along under the brushhog?

If that's the case, like knob said it may be time for a tune up. No new smoke, smells, or leaks is there?

 

[ericm979]

Isn't this the same tractor with a PTO problem in a different thread? Could the clutch driving the PTO be slipping?

 

[tcweb]

Tuned up about 2 years ago (new points, coil, filters, etc.) Seems to run strong. I had removed the brushhog to box blade (with help from father in law), and that's what got me thinking...were adjustments made to the 3point settings to accomodate the box blade. I honestly don't recall.

Like I mentioned, changing the angle to allow 3-4" more height on the back of the brushhog seems to help quite a bit.

 

[oosik]

Purchase a new top link or "chase" the threads on the existing link. My Kubota M6040 is 60 hp. For mowers ( mid- and rear-mount type) - the top hole is recommended.

 

[shooterdon]

A replacement top link is about $30. Why deal with the aggravation?

 

[tcweb]

Isn't this the same tractor with a PTO problem in a different thread? Could the clutch driving the PTO be slipping?

Yes, that's my post as well. I've had that issue since I've owned the tractor. (PTO still turns slowly, even when disengaged)

 

[tcweb]

A replacement top link is about $30. Why deal with the aggravation?

I'm cheap.
I'll pull the top link, and bring to to the local stores and see if I can match it up. I just (maybe wrongly) assume that some of these parts could be specific to Ford.

 

[shooterdon]

I'm cheap.
I'll pull the top link, and bring to to the local stores and see if I can match it up. I just (maybe wrongly) assume that some of these parts could be specific to Ford.

Nothing special about them. TSC or Blain's etc etc will have them in stock. You can order on line too.

 

[tcweb]

I purchased a replacement top link. You were right, cheap and easy. Not much point fighting with the original for $29.
I'm still not feeling as if it's cutting great. I do notice that the RPM tends to creep down as I cut. I set it to 1800, it creeps down to 1400.

My Throttle is not loose, seems pretty tight. But could this be part of my issue? Just not keeping the speed up to 1800-1900 rpm?

 

[arrow]

I purchased a replacement top link. You were right, cheap and easy. Not much point fighting with the original for $29.
I'm still not feeling as if it's cutting great. I do notice that the RPM tends to creep down as I cut. I set it to 1800, it creeps down to 1400.

My Throttle is not loose, seems pretty tight. But could this be part of my issue? Just not keeping the speed up to 1800-1900 rpm?

Yes it could.
What happens when you increase speed to 2100-2400 rpms?

 

[m1garand762]

Either your blades are worn to nothing or the tractor is severely lacking power it shouldn’t bog down like that unless your in 6 foot high brush

 

[tcweb]

I will check higher RPMs tomorrow.
It’s been in the 90s here…fords do t seem to like heat.

What I do know is that when I increase RPM, it seems to slow down by 100 rpm after a few seconds.

So I have to overshoot my target by at least 100rpm.

Regarding blades: I was under the impression that brush hog blades are not supposed to be sharpened. They don’t cut, they tear and shred. To prevent woody plants from regrowing quickly.

 

[cathy liebchen]

Maybe, but it just seems to be bogging down a lot more than the first few years I owned it. I cut in 4th gear mostly, and that hasn't changed. I know that a brush hot is not supposed to cut clean, so I'm not thinking It's blade sharpening. Gearbox looks OK, oil level OK. We have a LOT of dense weeds and a few fields that I cannot reach if the ground has been wet...so we may only mow some of our fields 1-2x/year. By that time, there are some 1/2" trees and some other woody plants that are pushing 6'.

I did lower the center link to the middle hole, and that seems to help a lot.

I will look to replace the center link, or at least repair the one I have. I may be able to chase the threads and get it working properly.

Am I correct to believe that the rear of the brushhog should be 3-4" higher than the front? To allow grass to be thrown rearward, and not just pulled along under the brushhog?

Rear should be only an inch higher

 

[chim]

Is there something not shown in the pics from last year that allows the toplink to float? Years ago I had a b-hog and used a chain as a toplink so the hog was supported by the two lift arms in the front and the tail wheel.