Chilly807
Elite Member
I've used mine for one season so far, works pretty well. There are four grab hooks mounted at the top to hang chokers from.
Sean
Sean
3-Point Hitch 3-point hitch log skidder
- Thread starter Rusty4242
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HarleyScooter
Gold Member
They are for a set of brush forks.
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savageactor7
Platinum Member
Yup after bending a turnbuckle because of too much play. I crank the turnbuckles tight so there not needed. The 2 ears below the PTO are pinned.
My son came up with that quick efficient hook up but it's better without the hitch pins.
HarleyScooter
Gold Member
Rusty, I used Kubota valves and hooked into where the backhoe hyd lines are. I already had the rear remotes so eight extra feet of hose was a lot cheaper than the extra valve set up, it took a little getting use to but now it is no problem.
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Mudfarmer
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2009
- Messages
- 361
- Location
- Western Washington
- Tractor
- JD 3005, Kubota B2710, Kubota B2650 (sold the ford 1700 and kubota B7100)
easygo - that is a monster. I like it. You should make 'em and sell 'em
Mf
Mf
SWLT
New member
Rusty4242, Many of the responses to your original question are reasonable. The concern about stumps preventing backing to the log seems puzzling. Why waste the wood left in a tall stump. We cut all stumps at ground level to eliminate later problems. The other recommendations about jerry rigging: Be certain to PULL the load below your axle, not on the 3 point. If not, flip over is very possible. Any of the chain choker suggestions will work, after lifting the log and setting the choker, then climbing off and releasing the chain/chokers. As it was suggested, if there are numerous logs to be moved, you will find the convenience of never leaving your tractor to hook up, pull out and drop off any log that is within the 22" diameter and that your tractor will handle safely, is well worth the price of the Small Wood Lot Tools equipment.
Baby Grand
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2007
- Messages
- 4,649
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- Windsor, CT.
- Tractor
- Kubotas: L3240GST B2320HST B5100D & G5200H
To restate SWLT's comment, this is my basic rule:
Lift with the 3pt; pull with the drawbar.
And by drawbar, I mean the one that's permanently under your rear axle.
It's a little more work to make both hitches, but there's never a hint of the front end go skyward.
I usually use a choker chain and and a grab link on the drawbar instead of the 1" rope.
That particular log was to big to get the choker chain around with enough left to reach the drawbar, hence the rope.
This is especially imortant if you try to climb a substantial grade with a similar load.
I have a HF quick hitch that I plan to modify with a blade on the bottom and a beam on the top for holding the tongs. A separate draught chain will be hitched to the drawbar.
Lift with the 3pt; pull with the drawbar.
And by drawbar, I mean the one that's permanently under your rear axle.
It's a little more work to make both hitches, but there's never a hint of the front end go skyward.
I usually use a choker chain and and a grab link on the drawbar instead of the 1" rope.
That particular log was to big to get the choker chain around with enough left to reach the drawbar, hence the rope.
This is especially imortant if you try to climb a substantial grade with a similar load.
I have a HF quick hitch that I plan to modify with a blade on the bottom and a beam on the top for holding the tongs. A separate draught chain will be hitched to the drawbar.
navistar505
New member
I am going to start building a log skidder for my tractor soon but before I do I figured I would pick your brains a little bit.
I am thinking of building something similar to the picture attached but I am going to add a electric winch
I am not planing to put a hydrolic top link on mine. I guess I could do with out it unless their is a good reason for having it.
Any suggestions on things to add?
I am thinking of building something similar to the picture attached but I am going to add a electric winch
I am not planing to put a hydrolic top link on mine. I guess I could do with out it unless their is a good reason for having it.
Any suggestions on things to add?
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SWLT
New member
Whenever there is a load being pulled, it must be pulled from the draw bar to insure tractor safety and avoid flip over. The attached photos, appear to place the pulling load above the draw bar which makes the pull unsafe.
Take a look at Small Wood Lot Tools - Timber Maintenance, Pre-commercial Thinning, Firewood, Fuel Reduction Cat 1, 3 Point Log Skidder Attachment. That tool provides hands off hook up, lifting and drop off. Additionally, the pulling load is attached to the tractor's draw bar.
If it is the fun of building your own, then please be sure to attach all pulling loads to the draw bar, NOT the 3 point lift arms or top link. If you want a tool to pull your logs, then visit that web site and you will likely save some money compared to the system shown in the your attached photos.
Take a look at Small Wood Lot Tools - Timber Maintenance, Pre-commercial Thinning, Firewood, Fuel Reduction Cat 1, 3 Point Log Skidder Attachment. That tool provides hands off hook up, lifting and drop off. Additionally, the pulling load is attached to the tractor's draw bar.
If it is the fun of building your own, then please be sure to attach all pulling loads to the draw bar, NOT the 3 point lift arms or top link. If you want a tool to pull your logs, then visit that web site and you will likely save some money compared to the system shown in the your attached photos.