Hey, yer welcome, glad it will work for you!
Just keep in mind that you have to keep those hydraulic lines well away from the moving 3PH arms up there. I use a piece of #10AWG slid-core wire to hold up the disconnected line at the top, just a couple of hook shapes so I can easily lift it out when I put on the backhoe. The connected return line is placed so it will stay well to the right; it just hangs down there.
The pipe is standard hardware-store threaded "iron" (steel) pipe, with holes drilled just inboard of the upper BH mounts and some of those clevis pins --or whatever they're called-- put in to keep it from shucking left & right.
In case you're wondering, the silver stuff at the top of the pics is some aluminum-backed bubble wrap/insulation that I've wrapped around the lowered ROPs bar and secured with electrical tape; I don't often put that up-- most of the time there's no need, as I'm on pretty flat surfaces. The bubble wrap is just to keep it from banging (loudly!) on the back as I maneuver the tractor. Walt
Just keep in mind that you have to keep those hydraulic lines well away from the moving 3PH arms up there. I use a piece of #10AWG slid-core wire to hold up the disconnected line at the top, just a couple of hook shapes so I can easily lift it out when I put on the backhoe. The connected return line is placed so it will stay well to the right; it just hangs down there.
The pipe is standard hardware-store threaded "iron" (steel) pipe, with holes drilled just inboard of the upper BH mounts and some of those clevis pins --or whatever they're called-- put in to keep it from shucking left & right.
In case you're wondering, the silver stuff at the top of the pics is some aluminum-backed bubble wrap/insulation that I've wrapped around the lowered ROPs bar and secured with electrical tape; I don't often put that up-- most of the time there's no need, as I'm on pretty flat surfaces. The bubble wrap is just to keep it from banging (loudly!) on the back as I maneuver the tractor. Walt
