3-point question, rear blade build

[JackDWaller]

MtnViewRanch, I definitely want hydraulics out back. When I costed that in with my 2320 purchase it was just pushing the price too high at the time. So first I need to get this blade done with some manual links and later get after, I guess it's called, power beyond?

I know many of these issues have been dealt with in TBN before and so I need to do more researching. There is so much great material that it is far to easy to get side tracked and lost

I'm still puzzled as to why there have been no replies specifically relating to how one determines how the 3-point pin locations should be selected. I guess it's "wherever you want to get whatever you want"?? I must be making something out of nothing.

Jack

 

[teg]

...I'm still puzzled as to why there have been no replies specifically relating to how one determines how the 3-point pin locations should be selected...

I think that there really has not been to many rear blades built from scratch... I would look at other blades to see if you can answer the question.

Scrape Blades, Rear 3 Point Hitch Scrape Blades & Tractor Loader Scrape Blades

Super interested in how it turns out... don't forget to take pictures :thumbsup:

 

[GPintheMitten]

I took some measurements of my Woods 5' back blade on my B2620. Attached is a rough diagram with measurements. Click on the thumbnail to make the drawing larger and readable. In this diagram I drew it with the blade reversed. The tire you see there is the rear tractor tire.

Because you have an iMatch, I think the width of the bottom 2 points and the relative height of the top point is determined, right? I think you are asking about how to position the triangle that would make in 3 dimensional space on the blade, correct?

I hope this drawing helps. If you want more measurements or actual pictures, let me know.

Also, my blade has 2 holes for varying the position of the top link. I'm on the top hole. And my tractor has 2 (maybe 3...its a new to me tractor) positions for connecting the top link. I'm currently on the top hole on the tractor side. Adding to that, the top link being adjustable in length, there is a lot of adjustments one can make for affecting the geometry of the blade or other attachments.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I think some actual pics may help due to my limitations in drawing accuracy.

In the first 2 pics, the blade is on level ground. The center of the bottom point is about 13" above ground level. The center of the top link is about 27.5" above ground level.

The 3rd picture shows the blade raised to max for my current setup with the blade in the reverse position. It shows about 12" of ground clearance and the blade to be about 14.5" tall. The clearance height can be adjusted quite a bit by changing the length of the top link, and where it is attached on both the blade and tractor.

In the 4th picture, the other end of the tape is on the cross bar of the A frame. It shows the center of the pivot point to be about 25" from the front of the frame.

 

[JackDWaller]

Thanks a huge amount, GPintheMitten. I believe I can now proceed without significant paranoia It seems that the situation I put forth in the last pdf is not likely to give me major problems, given that the 3-point has flexibility as you point out.

I don't feel my efforts are particularly worthy, but I have to remind myself that others, like me since purchasing my 2320, may take away something based on my experience. Thus, I will attempt to post updated pics.

I would have grave reservations about strength issues at weak points such as the 2x4x1/4 vertical, rising off the blade, except that I believe my tractor is not massive enough to inflict fully destructive damage. Others in TBN may wish to enlighten me on this. For now, I think I will beef up the 2x4x1/4" tube both internally and with a 3x3/8" plate welded externally running down to the pivot pin (new longer pin passing through 2x4 and 3/8" plate). Of course, it's precisely this type of patch-up that I'm trying to avoid in seeking early advice:thumbsup:

Jack

 

[GPintheMitten]

You're welcome. I think we all look forward to seeing your project as you progress. Keep us posted.

 

[SSdoxie]

Jack, This thread is couple days old so don't know how far you have progressed but regarding the measurements:
IMO - The length of tube back to the blade pivot should 1/2 the width of the blade so it can rotate 360 degrees without chance of contacting lower lift arms.
Height at inverted TEE attachment: The tube should be level when blade is on ground, if angle up or down it will cause the tip of the blade raise/fall from level when you angle. With blade on the ground the lower lift arms of 3pt should be close to level as well.
Any later adjustments for lift or tilt for ground excavation can be done with the 3pt linkages.

 

[JackDWaller]

Hi All,

Just thought I'd add comment or two now that I've used my rear blade for some pretty substantial snow moving.

Can't give firm proof, but I am strongly of the opinion that having the floating tilt has benefited me. Often the tractor assumes a different angle than the blade based on small ups and downs and I still get good contact based on the two skids. Doing the build over, I壇 include the tilt.

The gussets added to the back of the blade were overkill but I didn稚 care about weight. However, I知 thinking of welding a plate to cover them because they catch the snow when pushing backwards. BTW, those who suggested how pushing snow back into the ditch was handy sure knew what they were talking about.

Likewise, I have to say that the comments about a loader and a blade being a good combo were, from my limited experience, right on. Obviously, there are cases where a blower would be the perfect solution but for me having an L shaped house/attached garage, it痴 always been a pain trying to blow out of that area (walk behind). With the blade I just pull the snow out of that area.

With my bucket + blade I致e recently been removing snow from near the house, again not something that would be ideal with a blower, partly because of the fact that the snow is now very heavy.

I致e also used the buck in a vertical orientation to pull snow back from very near my shed doors. The shed is down a slope and I sure don稚 try clearing snow going up hill - not sure chains would even do the trick then.

Ended up storing the blade outside because a warm blade made for sticking snow, especially since it was unpainted.

Finally, for snow anyway, a pair of skids worked just fine. Virtually no issues with the gravel after the initial snow packing. I値l be curious to see how the skids work in dirt. I am 100% happy with my blade being extra heavy relative to my JD2320. Almost no steering issues except with the blade angled and being on a slope. Lift the blade a little and traction is improved significantly (no chains needed so far).

One final thank you to all who encouraged me and gave advice. With hindsight I don稚 know what I was fretting about but at the time this advice was critical.

Jack

 

[teg]

...Thus, I will attempt to post updated pics...

Jack, did you ever end up posting photos? (if you need help do it, just say so and we'll help ya...) :thumbsup:

 

[JoeL4330]

glad everything worked out ...as for snow sticking (next year) I (and others) have used "fluid film" with good effect.

 

[JackDWaller]

Sorry, what has happened is that I did post some photos but there was this question that came as a second thread and so it took over from the original thread. I guess I messed up in my approach. At any rate for whomever found this post to be lacking, here's some pics. The other post was - How useful is a snow blade - front or back?

Because I didn't get it sandblasted and painted I was still deferring to summer for final pics because it looks ATROCIOUS

I'd love to add the angle cylinder but for now I don't have the hydraulics on the JD2320. Presently it's 15/30 and reverse via the pin.

One pic shows how I beefed up the vertical support - the shaft protrudes down the 2x4 tube and is plug welded, and 2 - 1.5x1.5x1/8" tubes were welded likewise internal on each side. So far no issues with strength in what could have been a weak point.

I really like the floating tilt that follows the surface through ups and downs (slight spring pressure maintains level) and I like the weight of this beast. Remember it all started with the two grader blade discards that I found in my ditch - they're 5/8" thick and heavy (cut down to 6'2" from 7')

You'll notice I did add a receiver stub center back of the blade so I could hook onto a trailer if needed. And I've added a support rod (1 1/4" steel rod) Overall, very happy.

Jack