3-point question, rear blade build

   / 3-point question, rear blade build #11  
Would you like me to measure from the ground to the bottom two points on my blade when the A-frame is perpendicular to the ground? If you want other measurements, let me know. I have a Woods 5' back blade.
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build #12  
coming along well, glad to see the post and the interest it generates.

One thing to consider is how high you can raise the blade--especially when you mention "hilly"--because, as the 4-wheelers will tell you that determines your approach/departure angle (when you are not cutting with the blade). same approach/departure issue when/if you need to load onto trailer or rollback.
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build
  • Thread Starter
#13  
OK, I think I'm beginning to see some of this better. Right now my top link is in about mid position. I'm hearing that it would be desirable to have my blade with its cutting edge sitting flat on the pavement in that case. That gives me adjustment to make it more or less aggressive in its bite with the leading edge (being just under 3/4" thick there is a fairly wide flat, around 7/8").

There is also another aspect to this. My "blade" is two blades fastened together and the top blade edge is very narrow and sharp, with no flat. Is there any merit in flipping the blade pair over so as to have this as a cutting edge, say when levelling dirt??

Getting back to the 3-point, in one pic one can see my lower links which are pinned at the lower, further out, maximum weight point, I guess you'd call it. That enters into the discussion relative to how high the blade will lift and also how the top link will influence the angle of the blade looking from the side, no?? So before I establish an attachment swivel point on my iMatch "inverted T" I need to select where my 3-point lower arms are pinned, no??

Yellowhair 42, you have hit a nerve. I agree the 2x4x1/4" tube looks too small relative to the whole contraption. After I went ahead with it, I learned that the unit I was patterning after likely had a 4x6x1/2" tube, but that LandPride blade is for a much larger tractor than my 24 hp and the blade is 7', not 6'. I have since enquired about 3/8" wall and couldn't get it. When I got to frettin about this I decided I could weld a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/16 tube inside this 2x4, by drilling some holes and plug welding them. I'm kind of stuck since the blade backing is all welded up. My friend suggested going with one or more swivel mounts off to the side of the blade a couple feet or so to take some of the torque off that tube.

On the other hand, this frettin led me to examine various points associated with the 3-point hitch and I can't imagine my tractor being able to mangle that tube - not saying it couldn't happen though. :confused::ashamed:

Jack
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
GPintheMitten, my post fell in before I saw yours. I'm not sure exactly which measurements you are referring to. But if you were able to anotate a side view picture I'm sure it would help.

Normally when I have built other contraptions I have been able to tack weld a mock-up to "test" whether everything is going to work out. This is the first time I've ever dealt with anything this massive.

Jack
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build #15  
Ok, I'll take some measurements tomorrow. You could also mock up the side view on paper to scale and test the pivot with paper cut outs.
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Hi and thanks for the efforts to assist in spite of the confusion. I have gone out and clamped a length of tube onto the "inverted T" that locks into the iMatch of my JD 2320 and investigated the lift that is available from the 3-point with a particular setting of the pins in the lower arms. It would seem I need to pin in closer to the tractor to achieve a higher lift although without serious dips and hills, I guess it would be OK as is.

Please take a look at the attached pdf and comment since I really should get on with this fabrication if things look OK.

Regarding the 2x4x1/4" tube that is a weak point, I have determined that I could weld two 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x3/16" tubes internal to it. The fit is excellent and I guess I have nothing to loose by trying to beef it up by plug welding these in place??

Thanks to all who are try to follow and help. I know my descriptions haven't been the best.:)
 

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   / 3-point question, rear blade build
  • Thread Starter
#18  
The pdf file is attached (at least on my view here) and it contains text and annotation on the pic.

Jack
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build #19  
My apoligies . I'm on my android using the app and the attachment didn't show.
 
   / 3-point question, rear blade build #20  
JackDWaller do you have or plan to get any rear remotes? A hydraulic top link would take care of any blade height issues during transport. You can do amazing things with a rear blade that has a hydraulic side link. Just some other options to consider. ;)
 

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