I've considered this, and bolts/nuts wouldn't be too annoying given that I usually keep the snowblower on all winter unless I start doing tree work. However, wouldn't be bolt/threads get destroyed by the movement of the blower?
3-Point Hitch 3-Point Width Adjustment?
- Thread starter Kwehme09
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I've considered this, and bolts/nuts wouldn't be too annoying given that I usually keep the snowblower on all winter unless I start doing tree work. However, wouldn't be bolt/threads get destroyed by the movement of the blower?
mpsmith60,
I have these on all my tractors and NO WAY are they like Pat's Easy Change system! These are made for any tractor horsepower; are heavy duty, and will handle any piece of equipment one can throw at it. Pat's are built for light duty use and equipment.
This was a stupid idea and didn't come close to working.
CobyRupert
Super Member
I guess the question is: What is actually bending the blowers "ears" outward? Does it bind in all positions?
Is it because of the angle of the lift arm ends when they are at the width of the blower? Is it a Class 0 blower being mounted on a Class 1 three point hitch tractor?
Here's a link to dimensions of each Class type:
TractorData.com - Three-Point Hitch
Edit: Woods says their SB54S is Class 1 hitch...and Kioti says CK2610 is Class 1 3PTH too.....hmmm....
Is it because of the angle of the lift arm ends when they are at the width of the blower? Is it a Class 0 blower being mounted on a Class 1 three point hitch tractor?
Here's a link to dimensions of each Class type:
TractorData.com - Three-Point Hitch
Edit: Woods says their SB54S is Class 1 hitch...and Kioti says CK2610 is Class 1 3PTH too.....hmmm....
LouNY
Super Star Member
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When you say you are bending the ears out,
how are you attaching the blower to your tractor,
are you using a pin that goes thru both mounting holes with your lift arm sandwiched in between?
or have you mounted pins on to slid your lift arms over?
Using full length pins I would be surprised at the outer ears bending.
As has been mentioned using long bolts to go thru both mounting holes would work,
use bolts long enough that all the threads are outside of the yoke area with a couple of flat washers to allow the nuts to be tightened.
Reb954
Platinum Member
To me the idea made sense, apply the force against the inner flange where the most strength is. What did you do to try out the theory?
If the turnbuckles are adjusted so the lift arms just touch the inner flange on the blower that will keep the side pressure off the outer blower flanges. It can't help but make a difference but it will apply a lot of pressure against the turnbuckles trying to push the arms out. Are the turnbuckles bent or bowing under the pressure?
I think we need some pictures of your setup to be able to help. There has to be something else here we aren't seeing.
Reb954
Platinum Member
I just looked at your pictures again, there appears to be chain links at the ends of the turnbuckles. With the chain links you won't be able to hold the arms in so bolts are about the only option that I can see short of replacing the turnbuckles for something that is more solid. Set the bolts up like Lou described and you should be fine. Use lock nuts or double nut the bolts, I would tend to double nut so I don't have to fight a lock nut over a long thread.
Not a great picture, but its something. CAT 1 to Cat 1, don't notice it binding anywhere. MIGHT be able to put tension between the two arms and not interfere with the PTO, but that makes me a little nervous. I'm considering bolts, but that seems like a PIA, and I still feel like I'm missing something. I SHOULDN'T be needing to mod. this setup, but its becoming clear I might need to.
