3 PT Carryall box ?

[Workstead]

Hi Bob,

...
Clem, those videos have a couple of good ideas. I would use something besides caps on the end of the PVC pipe or it will just get broken out from dropping a shovel in the pipe. The gardeners out here have a similar setup on their landscape trailers for the shovels and rakes, but they use 2 pieces of PVC inline so they can put a bungee on the handle in the middle. They also use a piece of wood along the bottom as the stop for the handle.

...

Bruce

Bruce,

In the past I have used PVC pipe and have put a dowel through the PVC, at the bottom, to stop the handle and let water and dirt fall through.

Clem

 

[cowboy357]

Just thought I,d update this. I got the 3 point carryall frame from TSC for 99 bucks & was trying to figure out how to build a carryall for it .

Then I found this used dumpbucket on craigslist yesterday & got the guy to deliver it for 300 bucks . I figured if its to heavy for the little yanmar. 300 lbs , it would still be handy for My forklift . There 800 bucks plus shipping new .

Heres a link to Grainger that sells them Hopper,Self Dumping - Heavy Duty Hoppers - Carts and Trucks - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply

Also a few pics of the one I got . Any thoughts on wether it will be to heavy for the yanmar 1300 D ? She wouldn,t be hauling much weight in it . . Thanks , Bob

 

[Ron D.]

I would check with the guys on the Yanmar page, but I don't think you'll have any problem with the weight of the implement. I have a Yanmar F13D that lifts a four foot finishing mower just fine. I have to use some suitcase weights on the front for balance, but it has no problem lifting the implement.

Nice looking little carryall. The dump function is nice. I bought the frame for my carryall at TSC a few months ago (it was $119). I used treated lumber to build a four foot wide floor and back. I use it on my Kubota to balance the weight of the front end loader. I put 25 lb. concrete landscape blocks on it, the number of which depends upon what I'm doing with the FEL.

I typically pull a little utility trailer with the Yanmar. I bought a trailer frame from Northern Tool and built the floor and removeable sides out of treated lumber. I've been doing landscape projects this year and trailer will hold about one-plus cubic yards of compost/mulch. I've moved about 28 cu yds of material since I finished it, and presently have a portable TSC sprayer on it and going after the crabgrass.

 

[cowboy357]

Thanks Ron , I,ll give it a try & see how it handles it . I,m hoping I dont have to modify the forks on the 3 point attachment , But I havent even measured it yet .

How much weight do you have on the front to counter the mower deck if You dont mind Me asking ? . Thanks again. Bob

Edit to add pics & more dumb Questions .

Ok , The arms on the 3pt attachment would have to be Modifyed to use the fork lift slots. So I just slid it on top to see if it would lift it . It did But only 4 inches or so .

I added some weight to the front just in case , But not Enough to Make it safe while moving .

So Now I,m wondering as since the rear lift arms are a little bit to long IMO. Would it be better to just forget the 3 point attachment. Add Pins & a hook up for the dump bucket itself . Or shorten the lower arms to take the stress off of the back of the tractor .

It May end up being to much for this little tractor & in that case , I,ll use it for My forklift & build a suitable carry box . I,m just looking for ideas . Because I,m not very good at desighning things . Thanks for any input anyone May have. Thanks. Bob

 

[Ron D.]

Wow! The new pics give a much better perspective and make it look a lot larger than the original pics, and it does look like it might be a little large for the Yanmar. My front weights appear to be in the 100 lbs range. The weight setup I have is kind of homemade, so the actual weight is a guess, but I think 100 lbs is close. (It's 105 degrees in north Texas today, and everything probably feels heavier than it is, but it certainly felt at least 100 lbs when I went out and checked a few minutes ago.)

If I understand what are thinking, you are considering modifying the lower lift arms, or getting shorter ones on your 3 point lift? If this is your thought, I would not do that. Your lower arms look about the same length as mine, and it helps keep implements from being too close to the back of your tractor. I read a post here somewhere where some owners of subcompacts were experiencing problems with some implements because the lower arms weren't long enough. I just don't remember the exact issue, but I'm almost positive that shorter lift arms were causing some problems. Maybe someone can shed some light on this.

That's still a cool implement and you need to figure out some way to use it. Like you said, maybe on your fork lift. But with respect to your carryall frame, the treated wood and accompanying bolts, nuts and washers cost me very lillte and wood, at least for me, is much easier to work with than steel.

Hey, A/C guy is here and I have to go.

 

[Ron D.]

Sorry Bob, had to run a few minutes ago. I think that was the quickest A/C fix ever. Just had to shoot a little freon in it and it's working a lot better. About 10 degree colder air coming out the vents, and at 105 outside, you need all you can get.

I just measured my Kubota carryall, and I have a five foot bottom and back, rather than the four foot I thought I had. I think a four footer would be about perfect for my Yanmar, which is about the same size as your tractor. I got 10foot treated lumber, four 2x8's, and one 2x10, and cut them in half, and of course for a four foot box you would use 8 foot lumber and cut in half. It took me about two hours to construct. After cutting the lumber, I marked the holes from the carryall to the lumber and drilled holes for the bolts. I used flat washers to keep things from pressing into the wood. It was really quite simple. I used the 2x10 at the top of the back and at the end on the bottom (furthest from the tractor), and 2x8's everywhere else. By doing it this way, the bottom lumber just extends past the carryall frame (so you don't catch your leg on the metal frame and just below the frame at the top.

I'm sure this is not as well explained as it could be, but you'll figure it out just by taking measurements if you decide to build one from lumber.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[cowboy357]

Sorry Bob, had to run a few minutes ago. I think that was the quickest A/C fix ever. Just had to shoot a little freon in it and it's working a lot better. About 10 degree colder air coming out the vents, and at 105 outside, you need all you can get.

I just measured my Kubota carryall, and I have a five foot bottom and back, rather than the four foot I thought I had. I think a four footer would be about perfect for my Yanmar, which is about the same size as your tractor. I got 10foot treated lumber, four 2x8's, and one 2x10, and cut them in half, and of course for a four foot box you would use 8 foot lumber and cut in half. It took me about two hours to construct. After cutting the lumber, I marked the holes from the carryall to the lumber and drilled holes for the bolts. I used flat washers to keep things from pressing into the wood. It was really quite simple. I used the 2x10 at the top of the back and at the end on the bottom (furthest from the tractor), and 2x8's everywhere else. By doing it this way, the bottom lumber just extends past the carryall frame (so you don't catch your leg on the metal frame and just below the frame at the top.

I'm sure this is not as well explained as it could be, but you'll figure it out just by taking measurements if you decide to build one from lumber.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks again Ron , sounds like great advice . I,m steering in the same direction. Without some fairlly major changes to the 3 point links , I see no way for it to work safelly & I had a little over 200 lbs on the front to counter balance it .

Also since its the wifes garden tractor/Birthday present . Thats My main concern . I also just a few days ago bought a bundle of brand new 2x10,s treated 16 footers off of Craigslist . 23 boards total for 230 bucks delivered .

I didn,t really have a need for it at the time but couldn,t pass it up for that price . The Guy had recentlly bought it for a trailer project & the trailer got stolen so wanted it out of the way. Thats 5 really good buys in a month including the little yanmar .

I,ll post pics of What I cobble up . Thanks again Ron & if You have any pics of Yours I wouldn,t mind seeing them . Bob

Oh Yea We hit a record of 107 degrees yesterday . So I know what you mean.

 

[RalphVa]

Can't imagine a tractor without a FEL. I use the FEL as a diesel wheelbarrow, but I also have a carryall for really heavy duty hauling. I carry tools mounted on the FEL tower with a tool belt. Attached are some pictures. I've the tool belt essentially full of stuff now (not shown in the old picture).

Ralph

 

[cowboy357]

Can't imagine a tractor without a FEL. I use the FEL as a diesel wheelbarrow, but I also have a carryall for really heavy duty hauling. I carry tools mounted on the FEL tower with a tool belt. Attached are some pictures. I've the tool belt essentially full of stuff now (not shown in the old picture).

Ralph

Nice looking rig there Ralph , Thanks for the pics . I have 2 bigger tractors that have fels on Them . I just bought this one for the wife for gardening purposes , no need for a loader . Since I traded Her other big one for a forklift .

If she needs the loader she just jumps on one of the other tractors

The only thing I have against this little one , is the aggresive tire tread , Makes it for a rough ride on concrete or real hard ground .

Since the tires have quite a few weather cracks in Them I,m thinking about putting new tires on it , But I,m not sure whats available in tread , Any Ideas ? Thanks Bob

 

[Ron D.]

Great buy on the lumber. I can never seem to find anything useful that is used and at a good price. I've been looking for a good tiller for about six months and the used ones just aren't that much cheaper than a new one from TSC.

My F13D came with ag tires and was rough on the yard and kind of bouncey on pavement also. I think my rear wheels are 16 inch, and I got a set of used pickup truck tires and mounted them on the 16 inch rims. I still have the ag tires on the front, but think I might change them to a turf type tire because the ride is still bouncey on hard ground. The rear tires are great though, and it's a cheap fix as opposed to buying tractor turf tires. Used tires were about $20 each, including mounting. I don't do a lot of tough things with the Yanmar, but the tires have stayed on the rims just fine and I've it this way for about three years.

The one thing you need to make sure of, is that the perimeter of the tires you get are the same as what you replace. This is important in 4 wheel drive in that the perimeters of the front tires and rear are relatively matched, through front/rear axle ratio to work together.

 

[cowboy357]

Great buy on the lumber. I can never seem to find anything useful that is used and at a good price. I've been looking for a good tiller for about six months and the used ones just aren't that much cheaper than a new one from TSC.

My F13D came with ag tires and was rough on the yard and kind of bouncey on pavement also. I think my rear wheels are 16 inch, and I got a set of used pickup truck tires and mounted them on the 16 inch rims. I still have the ag tires on the front, but think I might change them to a turf type tire because the ride is still bouncey on hard ground. The rear tires are great though, and it's a cheap fix as opposed to buying tractor turf tires. Used tires were about $20 each, including mounting. I don't do a lot of tough things with the Yanmar, but the tires have stayed on the rims just fine and I've it this way for about three years.

The one thing you need to make sure of, is that the perimeter of the tires you get are the same as what you replace. This is important in 4 wheel drive in that the perimeters of the front tires and rear are relatively matched, through front/rear axle ratio to work together.

More Great info Thanks Ron. I never even considered using other tire. I just had to look & the rears are 8/16 s . so I might look into that . Thanks again , Bob

 

[GreenLawnFarm]

the ballast boxes work well for carrying tools. i like the idea of the carry-all. for a little over $100, i may just have to look into that also.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I bought one at TSC at the end of June and just put a platform on it. I waffled about how to build sides (swinging in like in the videos vs. fixed), and decided to make the sides drop-in stake-side style. The back will likely be a 2X10 or two that I drop into slots in each side. I'll likely add various tool carriers, too (like the chainsaw scabbard), so I can load up with wood and still carry my tools. It'll probably be winter before I get this done, though!
The numerous postings here have helped me a lot with design ideas and construction techniques.
BOB

 

[Northland]

I have TSC carry-all that I added planks to but I never use it as I always have my box blade on these days.

This is a nice design - wilsonoutdoors.com - The Ultimate Tractor Carryall Project

 

[cowboy357]

Thanks Guys . Ron do you have any pics of those truck tires on your yanmar ? I just cant quite picture how they would look, but steering torwards the idea .


Thats pretty much what I,m thinking Bob . since I have the 2x10,s , I,m not one to make things fancy , Plus the wifes really after Me to get this thing done , Which I haven,t even started yet .

Northland , This will be the only thing on the back of this little tractor & i doubt it will ever come off , I,m still thinking I need to add some weight to the front though . As if She has it idling to high She tends to pull wheelies now & then . .

Hopefully I,ll get something done this week , If so i,ll post a few pics. But trust me it wont be perty. . Bob

 

[rd_macgregor]

The carryall alone is fairly heavy, then add a couple of hundred pounds of boards (or steel box!), then fill it with firewood or compost or somesuch and you might, indeed need some weight in the front...especially if the front pops up now without any weight in the rear.
I have an FEL on my Kioti DK45 and it is likely to be loaded with wood or gravel or something whenever the carryall is loaded, so I don't think I'll have to add more weight beyond that.
Not counting the planning time, it took me about 4 hours to put together just the bottom and back for the platform (measuring [twice], cutting, drilling, bolting, screwing, and lots of trips to the basement shop for tools I forgot on the last trip). I still need to build sides, some sort of back gate and various tool holders before I'm done. It will be pretty heavy by then and I'll probably have $400 (Canadian) in materials into it! For all that effort, I hope I get a lot of use out of it.
BOB

 

[Ron D.]

Hey Bob. Be sure and check the distance center to center of the pre-drilled holes on the carryall. I think mine were 8 inches. I attached my individual pieces of wood directly to the carryall frame, rather than attaching wood runners to the frame and then attaching the individual pieces of wood to the runners. If you attach like I did, and use all 2x10's, the holes may not appropriately line-up to the center of your boards. I had a little problem having the pre-drilled holes center the way I did it, because at the 90 degree of the carryall where the back meets the bottom, the holes are the same distance from the 90 degree angle. So by butting the lower piece of wood for the back at the bottom of the frame (where the back meets the bottom of the frame), your using two inches (actually the width of board) of the distance for the first board at the bottom. I'm not great at figuring these types of things out, but I used all 2x8's except for a 2x10 at the top of the back and at the end of the bottom. This shows a little bit of frame at the top and the wood extends a little beyond the frame at the bottom. This keeps me from catching my leg on the frame as I'm loading unloading.

I don't have any pictures of how the tires look but I will take some and figure out how to get them on the site.

Been a little busy trying to improve our yard. This last weekend my wife and I prep'd about 10,000 sq. ft of yard area for seeding. I had a little yard tractor disc that I piled about 300 lbs on and used that behind the Yanmar, and then plug aerated the dog out of it. We then spread about 12 cu. yds. of compost over the area, re-aerated it, put down about four times the amount of bermuda seed required, and then smoothed everything with a homemade harrow. Talk about luck, just before and after seeding we got a great rain.

Yesterday, I had three pallets of St Augustine delivered about 7:00 pm, and my wife and I laid two of them up until 10:00 pm. This was the first time I really used the carryall for anything except ballast for my loader. We loaded it to the max it with sod and filled the loader bucket with grass also. You can never have too much equipment when doing this kind of stuff.

I have pics of the seeding project and will post thos on the project page as soon as I figure out how to get pics on the site. I'll take some of the Yanmar tires and get those up too.

Hope the carryall narrative isn't too confusing.

 

[cowboy357]

Nope Ron I think I got ya , thanks for taking the time , Something I hadn,t thought about .

I,d love to see some pics of the yard project as well . I had our yard pretty tore up in the spring , brought more dirt up from my pond project & leveled it out & got it seeded to late in the year. But We,ve been waterin the heck out of it & overseeding it every 3 weeks or so as it fills in . Just finally got a good 3 inches of rain the other day So its looking decent . Probablly more burmuda & crabgrass then fesue. But still better then mud. .

As far as the pics. Just upload them to the puter. then scroll down where it says manage attachments click that up to 4 pics, hit upload & they post then if you want to add more just do the same thing over again. Really simple after you do it a few times . Looking forward to the pics. thanks again Ron & good luck with your yard project . Bob

 

[studor]

Here are pics of one I built using scrap PT pieces from the clearance bin at home despot, scrap conduit and pvc, a piece of vinyl decking for the chainsaw holder and four casters from HF to roll it around the shop floor.The back "gate" uses stake pockets and rack corners to attach. The frame is a TSC one with the top link hole annoyingly drilled for a cat 2 pin
It rarely comes off the tractor in spring summer fall

 

[Northland]

Nice job Studor! You got everything on that rig