3039r

[nch209]

Looking for deere 3039r feedback. Am I crazy to be worried about the tier 4 emmisions stuff that's strapped under the hood? Any and all feedback for owners would be great!

 

[ipwanab]

nch209;

I have a brand new 3033r. I have only put a few hours on it pushing snow and playing. The only weird thing about the emission is when you start the exhaust comes out through the hole in the hood. After a while it comes out somewhere else. It has been so cold here I have not crawled under neath to see the other pipe.
I have seen no indication of strange behavior so far. There are some displays that talk about soot percentage but it is very very low. I started the tractor this week and it was close to zero. Started immediately and idled fine. I have been reluctant to let it idle much after the horror stories circulating around the forums. It warms quickly and the heat is wonderful.
I have experimented with starting the 72d belly mower and can not really tell anything has happened other than hearing the knob click. I don't
know why there are so many stories about how underpowered 3320/3033's are but I think it is unwarranted. The thing runs about 16 mph or so on the road. it is definitely not powerful in high range but is a real go daddy.
I researched the ***** off this before buying and trust me all the figures are wrong on height. The manual said 85 inches for the cab. I got turfs and it is an easy 6 inches to tall to get in a seven foot garage door. I let all but 3 pounds of air out of the rear tires and it lowered about 1/2 inch.
The specs say the cab is 80 db or lower in noise. I haven't measured yet but you will need protection for your hearing from the engine racket.
The cab is very nice though. It is really neat to use the tractor and not stink afterward. The hydrostat is exquisite. I had a deere 2520 hydro before this and the new one is even better. The cruise and motion match are very good. I especially like the sensitivity setting on the hydro.
I got the tech manual and I don't feel it was worthwhile. The parts page shows about as much detail as the tech manual.
By the way the old fashioned seat works pretty well for me. When adjusted for your weight it cushions a lot.
The auto lift for the belly mower uses the black hydraulic port and works very well.. The quick connects are extremely difficult for me to disconnect and connect. Not much room to get a good bite on the springy part and they are really stiff.
The cable controlled loader stick is very stiff as compared to mechanical linkage. It does seem to be loosening though.

 

[nch209]

Thanks for your review! Very insightful! Curious though- was a 3320 considered, or did you want to go with the R? I technically have a 3520, 160hrs, but due to some issues it's in the shop, and I have the opportunity to jump up to 3039r... But for quite a bit more $$$. Trying to see if its worth it...

 

[ipwanab]

NCH;

Really tried to find an older model but they were all priced near or at the new prices. Plus they tend to all have R4's and I am a fan of R3's. Dealer here blew away Kubota in willingness to negotiate and deliver what they promised. I was originally going to get a cabbed Kubota because it would fit the garage and was less expensive. In the end the Deere was very competitive and I also got a year extended warranty for a very reasonable price. I figured if the emission stuff was going to fail it would within 3 years. I am most anxious to get warm weather and cut grass in the luxury of the cab. I have had practically every mower known and I prefer the Deere tractors with the belly mower. My scag would cut very quickly but even with a suspended seat it beat me up pretty badly. The tractor has a supple ride (comparitively). Where I live the wind blows constantly from the southwest and blows clippings all over your face when mowing perpendicular to the wind, (which I do because of the lay of the land).

 

[jgayman]

nch209;

I have a brand new 3033r. I have only put a few hours on it pushing snow and playing. The only weird thing about the emission is when you start the exhaust comes out through the hole in the hood. After a while it comes out somewhere else. It has been so cold here I have not crawled under neath to see the other pipe.

Interesting. I don't recall reading this before. I always wondered about the exhaust outlet in the hood and thought what a silly idea it was to have the exhaust come out a flush-mounted orifice. It would seem the grate and surrounding hood area would become discolored and ugly very quickly.

I took a look at the parts diagram and you can see that the exhaust comes out to a tee that has a flapper valve above and below it (see the highlighted parts below). The odd thing is it appears both valves are controlled by the same actuator. I wonder if the two valves are perpendicular to each other such that when the top valve closes the bottom valve opens?



It would still seem like the open hole in the hood would allow rain water to get down into the exhaust valve if left outside.

Hopefully Deere has made some provision for preventing that.

 

[ipwanab]

The port does indeed blow vapor out when starting. The top exhaust only lasts a short time. The salesman told me that the exhaust will revert to the hood position if the ground speed is slow so as to not catch the grass on fire if regen is happening. I don't see why they just didn't let it come out the top all the time and put a stack on it.Incidentally none of this is covered in the tech manual.
Every time I see a 80 horse Skid steer operating full bore and as quiet as a mouse I wonder why a 30 horse tractor is so ridiculously loud.
And just in case any Deere reps read these forums, why in the world don't they remove 6 inches from the cab so they will fit in a standard garage. Most torsos are a similar height from the tailbone to the top of the head and there is no need for a foot clearance unless your wearing an Abraham Lincoln hat.

 

[jgayman]

The port does indeed blow vapor out when starting. The top exhaust only lasts a short time. The salesman told me that the exhaust will revert to the hood position if the ground speed is slow so as to not catch the grass on fire if regen is happening. I don't see why they just didn't let it come out the top all the time and put a stack on it.Incidentally none of this is covered in the tech manual.
Every time I see a 80 horse Skid steer operating full bore and as quiet as a mouse I wonder why a 30 horse tractor is so ridiculously loud.
And just in case any Deere reps read these forums, why in the world don't they remove 6 inches from the cab so they will fit in a standard garage. Most torsos are a similar height from the tailbone to the top of the head and there is no need for a foot clearance unless your wearing an Abraham Lincoln hat.

Wow... that is interesting. I see JD does offer a stack kit for those tractors. I wonder how it installs and if any of the existing "stuff" is removed? It would seem the stack would eliminate the need for the tee-fitting and the two exhaust valves. No way to tell from the parts diagram.

 

[forestcreature1]

The port does indeed blow vapor out when starting. The top exhaust only lasts a short time. The salesman told me that the exhaust will revert to the hood position if the ground speed is slow so as to not catch the grass on fire if regen is happening. I don't see why they just didn't let it come out the top all the time and put a stack on it.Incidentally none of this is covered in the tech manual.
Every time I see a 80 horse Skid steer operating full bore and as quiet as a mouse I wonder why a 30 horse tractor is so ridiculously loud.
And just in case any Deere reps read these forums, why in the world don't they remove 6 inches from the cab so they will fit in a standard garage. Most torsos are a similar height from the tailbone to the top of the head and there is no need for a foot clearance unless your wearing an Abraham Lincoln hat.

The "normal" flow is through the more restrictive system out toward the axle. The 'regen' is bypassing that.
My vote would be for deere to always use a vertical stack [I built one for the 3032e, and will for the 3046-r as soon as the weather gets warm.
[but then, I have always been an upstanding guy]

 

[nch209]

^. Interesting about the stack. Would this eliminate the flapper without any other issues? Great feedback!

 

[forestcreature1]

Yes, for tier 4, just unhook the solenoid, and tie the flapper in the "go up" position.
[unhook means pull the cotter pin and unhook the push rod, leave the thing wired in so the computer doesn't freak]