3225 Hydraulics Problem

peavs · Feb 12, 2008

thunderbirl said:
On a similar front, in the attached figure, can the check, relief valves and/or plugs (#25-30) be used to figure out if there's anything going on inside the pump? I know it sounds dumb, but could someone undo one of these, disconnect the spark plugs and turn over the engine, then look and see if there's a puddle. I don't know what the fluid path is like, but is there a point that, if fluid doesn't come gushing out when the driveshaft is turned, it means that the pump is dead? If I know which way fluid flowed around the filter I might even think you could make a similar check there.

Yes, it's crazy - would it work?

I don't know either, but if it were mine, I would take the fenders off and have a look. My knowledge comes form "I been here and done this" on mine for a very similar problem. I just hope (for Rick D) the shaft is not turning and the pump adapter is slipping.

Bob_Bainbridge · Feb 12, 2008

I've never had the nipple come out with the filter. I don't think that's normal but I suppose it could happen.

Bob B.

Rich D in Saugerties · Feb 12, 2008

I should have mentioned in my prior post that my 3225 does not have the 759-3926 kit and the shaft and pump fan are definitly turning.

Rich D in Saugerties · Feb 13, 2008

I am wondering if my transmission bypass is functioning correctly.

Ever since purchasing the tractor 8 years ago, I found the tractor very difficult to move with the disengage lever actuated. I had a couple of prior
hydrostatic tractors that freewheeled easily when the transmission was bypassed. For this one, I really need my wife to help moving it.

If this was faulty, then the purge process would not be working correctly, and maybe the pump might be "chewing on air" instead of fluid. I know the bypass valve button is moving in as designed - this is why I removed the hydro spring plate and depressed the valve with a wedge.

Can I get a couple of posts on how easy the tractor should be to move when the transmission is bypassed?

elfiero50 · Feb 13, 2008

Your charge pump is broken. It is number 24 on the parts diagram. Replacing this unit requires a complete teardown of the hydro unit which can be removed from the differential, but the entire assy. should be removed from the tractor first. I bought my tractor with this unit broken and repaired the whole thing for $108 for parts(inc. filter) plus $30 for 6 quarts of oil(Mobil1 15w50). I heard rumblings that if you approach CC directly, there may be an unspoken extended warranty for this item- DO NOT ask the dealer- he will say NO(would you work for less than half the money given a choice?). This IS the problem with your tractor the longer you run it trying different fixes, the more havoc you wreak inside the hydro unit!!! fix it now before you run it any more.
Bruce

Rich D in Saugerties · Feb 13, 2008

The pump is cerainly a key suspect. The item #24 in the drawing posted by thuderbirl (post #10) is called the gerotor & housing assembly. It is part of a larger assembly kit #23 called the auxilliary charge pump kit. I got a price of $75 from Messicks Farm Equipment for part #24, and $193 for the assembly kit #23. Apparently, efiero50 got just the gerotor part and reused the O-rings, etc.

I also talked a bit to a service guy at Messicks, and he shared the opinion that the charge pump was a key suspect. The two pumps inside the transmission itself are used for drive function only, so my lack of lift and steering makes the charge pump the more likely culprit.

I think I'm gonna want a service manual to guide me through this repair. It seems like the only way to get one is to fax an order form - the web and
phone functions only allow operators and parts manuals to be ordered.

peavs · Feb 13, 2008

Might try here for a Hydro-Gear service manual and/or parts:

http://www.m-and-d.com/index.html

elfiero50 · Feb 15, 2008

Yea, I misspoke. It was the gearotor that I bought. Since I'm a cheap SOB, I reused the O-rings and they seemed to seal just fine(15 hours use since repair). After you get all the stuff off and out of the way, it's really a fairly simple repair. Take note you will find quite a bit of shrapnel in part number 31- it's used as a safety screen to keep the rest of the hydraulic motor clean. I think this is the only weak spot in the 3000 series, but it is significant. I have the feeling I'll be doing this again in a few years......

Rich D in Saugerties · Feb 15, 2008

Thanks for the advice and update elfiero and peaves! The Hydro-Gear parts from M&D Mower are the cheapest I've seen.

I ordered a service manual from CC - unfortunately they say it will take 10 days to get here. Can I get an overview of the steps needed to get the transmission off?

Eg, 1-drain fluid, 2-remove seat, 3-remove fender, .... I'd like to get started.

For others who might need to do this, the troubleshooting guide on http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/hydrogear/hydrogear_T_Shoot.pdf is a 30+ page description of how to service the charge pump itself.

Wish there was a Series 3000 Service Manual online, but there's not.

thunderbirl · Feb 15, 2008

My 3000 came with a manual for installation of the 3 pt hitch. It had all the instructions for removing everything to get at the back end. If that would be helpful, I'd be happy to PDF it and send it along. Send me a PM.