3320 200 Hour Review

Mech · Oct 21, 2008

The throttle was very stiff on my 790 but it never bothered me until I was showing my wife how to operate the tractor to plow snow and when we got to the throttle she couldn't move it. I took off the dash and two bolts holding a cover over the throttle linkage and there is a simple friction adjustment with a two bolts, one to lock it and one to adjust the friction. It is easy and smooth to move now. We will see if it moves under vibration. If so I will need to tighten a little bit.

Killer_B · Oct 21, 2008

Any idea how to get the tupperware off the 3320 so as to access the throttle friction adjustment? I can't even find the screws.

radman1 · Oct 22, 2008

JD3520Turbo said:
Thanks for the update. I have 45hrs on mine and dropped the original oil today for a change.
The one thing I have noticed with these tractors, is that no matter where i am in relationship to the tractor, whether attaching an implement, or on the seat, or out front hooking a chain the the bucket, I can't seem to get away from the exhaust smell. It follows me around like a black cloud. I am strongly considering a vertical exhaust kit to the get that up and over my head. I think it will help, I just don't want to cut a hole in my hood. One wrong move and yikes, big money. Noticed the steering is a little stiff in certain situations. Mostly when Idleing.

The vertical exhaust will help tremendously with the fumes. I used to feel the same as you. Even inside my shed the fumes are much less noticeable with the verical exhaust. The underside of the hood is marked with 2 etched circle guides - 1 for the 3x20 and the other for the 4x20 series. I believe the 2 circles partly overlap each other. I think a used a 4" keyhole saw. (Cheap harbor freight set).

Nuru · Oct 22, 2008

Killer_B said:
Any idea how to get the tupperware off the 3320 so as to access the throttle friction adjustment? I can't even find the screws.

I think all you have to do is drop the 4 screws and separate the connectors to the instruments?

Killer_B · Oct 23, 2008

Nuru said:
I think all you have to do is drop the 4 screws and separate the connectors to the instruments?

I wish.

I have removed the four forward facing "star" screws. Three of the holes can be seen in photo #1. I also found a lower rear facing screw inside the fuse cover area as shown in photo 2. But she's still holding on tight. Any other ideas?

KB

Nuru · Oct 23, 2008

Wow, that is different, to remove my instrument panel, all I had to do is drop the 4 star screws on the panel itself, and disconnect the connectors.

How about the nut on the ignition switch?

RogerH · Oct 23, 2008

To remove the green plastic covering, you also need to remove the black part holding the instrument panel. To do that, open the fuel door and see the two 10 mm head bolts going in at an angle. before taking those out, first open the hood and find the slots in the cast aluminum part that hold the nuts on the other end of those bolts. It has been my experience that if you stuff those slots tight with rags, the nuts won't fall into the nether regions of the engine compartment. And if you are careful, you should be able to screw the bolts right back into them when you are done.

Then remove the screws and rotate the front of the black part backward, pivoting around the rear of the black part. You may have to unhook the instrument panel wires (can't remember, its been a few years since I did this). There are a couple tabs in the black part that engage the green part. When you rotate the black part enough, it should lift free leaving the two green parts able to separate.