3320 3pt hitch question

   / 3320 3pt hitch question #1  

jgrassano

New member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
11
Location
bristol,vt
Tractor
2011 john deere 2520
I feel like a dummy for asking this but when I hook my York rake to my 3pt hitch and lower it Down it barely touches the ground. I have played with the top link and can't seem to get it. It worked fine on my 2520 that I just traded in
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #2  
Look at where your top link attaches to the tractor. My 4410 has three positions. I think, if I remember correctly, you want the lowest for better ground engagement.
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #3  
Also make sure the side links are adjusted "out" so you can gain some extra length there. The rake isn't a light version is it? They are sometimes shorter in the body to make up for the lower ground clearance on the subcuts.
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the help. It may be made for a smaller tractor but I couldn't pass it up for 300 bucks. Seems to get the job done now. I would like a little heavier 7ft one but alot of money
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #5  
Maybe the 3 pt lever is out of adjustment. I don't know how yours is setup by my cab tractor has a cable that runs to the lever in the cab and mine was way out of adjustment from the factor. So I adjusted it. What is the measurement from the tip of the lower lift arm to the floor when lowered? Lets start there. Ill go measure mine in an hour
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I will have to measure mine tonight. I don't have a cab on mine
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #7  
cab wont make any difference in height with the 3pt just so you know. I have turf tires and I measured 9 inches exactly from the floor to the bottom of the lift arm with fully lowered. Even if you have r4 tires, you should only see about a half inch difference. hopefully this helps. let us know what you measure

photo-1_zps63ae8a65.jpg
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #8  
If you disconnect the braces from the lower 3 pt arms, you can screw the ends out or in, creating more or less travel for the whole set up. Be careful not to go too far, as less thread contact will weaken the arm, and keep the turns the same on each side.

I have to shorten them for my bushhog and chipper, and lengthen them for other implements (or return to "neutral" maybe). Shortening strengthens, lengthening weakens, but so long as there's enough overlap you should have no issues. Good Luck!
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #9  
If you disconnect the braces from the lower 3 pt arms, you can screw the ends out or in, creating more or less travel for the whole set up. Be careful not to go too far, as less thread contact will weaken the arm, and keep the turns the same on each side.

I have to shorten them for my bushhog and chipper, and lengthen them for other implements (or return to "neutral" maybe). Shortening strengthens, lengthening weakens, but so long as there's enough overlap you should have no issues. Good Luck!
Great point! Mine picture and measurement is with the braces screwed all the way in just FYI
 
   / 3320 3pt hitch question #10  
I will have to measure mine tonight. I don't have a cab on mine
Irrespective of cab or tire type, the primary purpose of the vertical links is to connect the upper and lower lift arms. Yours - being adjustable - have a secondary purpose. That is, to provide the option to raise and/or lower the rear lift arms to a height appropriate to the implement attached. More length lowers the lift arms, less length raises them. Seems pretty clear that your solution is to simply adjust the vertical links for more length.

//greg//
 

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