3320 Axle Seal

[MikeyB]

I have a 3320 with the front axle leakage problem. On JD parts I believe that I have found the seal that is the culprit but wanted to check and see if anyone has done the fix themselves. On the JD parts
diagram it looks like I would only need to replace #22 Axle Output seal. It looks like removing the 8 bolts allows removing the cover which allows removal of the entire output axle?!

Thanks for any help,
Mike

 

[Zebrafive]

Looking at the drawing I agree. Bearing 28 might be a tight fit in housing 29. Does 24 have any tapped holes to use bolts to "push" it off?

 

[MikeyB]

Looking at the drawing I agree. Bearing 28 might be a tight fit in housing 29. Does 24 have any tapped holes to use bolts to "push" it off?

Thanks for the reply. Have not gotten that far. Just doing my due "diligence" before ordering parts, etc. I am guessing I may need a puller or press to complete the repair. An excellent excuse to buy a few tools to add to the collection! I will post a writeup when I get it done. The weather is finally starting to cooperate here in CO so I may even take the blower off the ***-end and get the bush hog out.

Regards,
Mike

 

[MikeyB]

Looking at the drawing I agree. Bearing 28 might be a tight fit in housing 29. Does 24 have any tapped holes to use bolts to "push" it off?

Thanks for the reply. Have not gotten that far. Just doing my due "diligence" before ordering parts, etc. I am guessing I may need a puller or press to complete the repair. An excellent excuse to buy a few tools to add to the collection! I will post a writeup when I get it done. The weather is finally starting to cooperate here in CO so I may even take the blower off the ***-end and get the bush hog out.

Regards,
Mike

 

[RG1]

Make sure you know for certain which joint is leaking before ordering parts or working on it.

 

[1S1K]

I have replaced that outer axle seal on mine, you can use a block of wood and a hammer, I have been told, to separate the axle from the bearings, I chose to use my shop press as I don't like pounding on bearings that way, it only took me about 2 hours never having done it before and not having a repair manual. I did this before I knew about this forum, I know there is a write up on this, but if you can't find it and have questions let me know. One word of advice, jack the side you are working on at least a few inches higher than the other side, this will keep you from loosing a lot of front axle oil. At least I had the forethought to do this and I only lost about a half quart if I remember correctly.

 

[MikeyB]

I have replaced that outer axle seal on mine, you can use a block of wood and a hammer, I have been told, to separate the axle from the bearings, I chose to use my shop press as I don't like pounding on bearings that way, it only took me about 2 hours never having done it before and not having a repair manual. I did this before I knew about this forum, I know there is a write up on this, but if you can't find it and have questions let me know. One word of advice, jack the side you are working on at least a few inches higher than the other side, this will keep you from loosing a lot of front axle oil. At least I had the forethought to do this and I only lost about a half quart if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the info. When I picked up the new seal it had an insert (see above) that said I needed to use their special seal driver to prevent damage. After looking at the seal it seems as if a piece of flat plate would work since the metal outer ring of the seal protrudes just a bit. What did you use to drive the seal in. I figure I can just use a feeler gauge to get the correct depth. Also, which bearing(s) were press fit?

Thanks for any help,
Mike

 

[1S1K]

I will look through my pics/notes tonight, I didn't use any thing special I just made sure the seal was at the correct depth all the way around with my caliper measuring depth.
1. Jack up the side you are working on several inches higher than the other to prevent loosing a lot of oil
2. Remove wheel, then remove hub bolts, I leave 2 in a few turns to keep hub assembly from falling, pry hub assembly loose, there are 2 slots, one on each side to pry in.
3. With the hub on the bench outside down, remove the snap ring.
4. If you have a press it is pretty easy from hear, support hub housing and press gently on the axle shaft, be ready to catch it.
5. Take everything back to the bench, the bearing below the snap-ring comes off first, then the gear which has splines, then spacer, outer bearing stays in hub housing.
6. Remove the seal sleeve that will be stuck on the axle, remove the oil seal from the hub housing.
7. Install the new seal in the housing, I used a bearing driver flat side down and slowly put the seal in until it was the correct depth.
8. The seal sleeve should already be in the seal, I removed mine and added a little lube and very carefully re-installed the sleeve, the sleeve prevents damage to the seal when installing the axle.
9. Support the inner race of the outermost bearing and press the axle back in.
10. Install the spacer, slide the gear back on, support the inner race of the inner most bearing and press it back on the axle.
11. Install snap-ring, clean sealing surfaces, apply liquid sealant, I used ultra grey, all I had at the time, re-install hub and bolts, let sealer dry for a bit, re-install wheel, lower jack.
12. I would let it sit level over night, check front axle oil and then recheck the day after you use it.

Some of the steps are obvious, not meant to be an insult, just wanted to be clear on what I did.

I did it in about 2 hours the first time with no info other than the sheet you have, I work on cars for a living so this stuff is nothing new to me. Pretty easy job overall, just take your time and it should be no problem, good luck.