3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem

   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #1  

randyquinby

New member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Oley, PA
Tractor
2011 JD 3320
We purchased a used 3320 with low hours a few months ago and all has been well. We had about 25" of snow to clean up after two storms that rolled through back to back last week. During cleanup I noticed the front blade would stop working, so I would turn on the rear-hydraulic switch again and it would start working. It started happening more and more frequently, and then eventually stopped working completely. I have the joystick with the grey up/down switch on the side. The fuse is not blown for the switch, just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what may be wrong.

Thank you in advance!
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #2  
OK, so you have a blade mounted on the loader? And the switch on the joystick operates the plow angle (left and right) via long hoses and the rear mounted 3rd SCV solenoid valve?

Here is a thread that may help: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/300353-3720-plow-function-not-working.html

In short, the T handle on the valve body needs to be closed for normal operation.

This is of course if you think the problem is hydraulic, if you suspect it's electrical you'll have to start tracing the wires and checking for voltages when the button is pushed.
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Kennyd, thanks for the quick reply. You are correct that I have the front blade controlled as you say. I did adjust the T-Handle and it makes no difference, unfortunately I think that it is an electrical issue, not hydraulic. Each time I'd push a pile down the driveway, I would have to hit the switch again on the side panel, and then it would stop working more and more frequently. I'm afraid it is just time to start tracing wires.
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #4  
Good luck Randy, if you are going to keep the machine for a long time and do your own service/maintenance then perhaps you should get the technical manuals also-they are cheap at $140 (for the CD version) and invaluable when things go wrong. Pretty sure its the TM2138CD for your machine but please verify.

https://techpubs.deere.com/PreferencePage.aspx
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Well I've taken a look at everything and now I'm completely stumped. There is no power what so ever coming to the switch, solenoid, nothing that I can find, but their is power at the fuse. I called my local dealer and he said that they never really have problems with them so he isn't sure, and doesn't know of any additional fuses or relays that pertain to the switch. He said perhaps it is the male end of the quick connect so I will try that tonight, but it doesn't seem like the pump is doing anything when I use the toggle switch on the lever, so that would surprise me. Frustrating for sure, and now my confidence is dwindled in taking it to the dealer as he admitted he wasn't too sure of what it may be.
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #6  
Ask him to print out the schematics from the tech manual for you.
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Kennyd, thanks for your help. I found out that there was a fuse block that I wasn't aware of behind the seat when I started tracing wires, and both of the fuses were blown. Now when I replaced them, one of them blew again, so I have to try and take a closer look at what could be causing it to keep blowing. Thanks again!
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #8  
When you replaced a fuse and it blew that means the circuit is drawing more current than the fuse is rated for, usually a short to ground.
Best way to find it without going thru a bunch of fuses is to rig a 12 volt light bulb across the fuse terminals. Now the light will be the load instead of a fuse blowing. When you find the and correct the short the light will go out.
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Zebrafive and kennyd, thank you very much for your help. With some nice weather yesterday I spent some time tracing the wires and it was right near the fuse block. The ground wire had chaffed against some metal and worn into two pieces, as well as one of the hot lines. I noticed that the fuse block looks like it was wearing improperly and there is a bent piece of metal where it is supposed to hold the block in place (see pictures). Does anyone have a picture of what this is supposed to look like to I can try and fix properly. Thanks again for the help! photo 2 (1).jpgphoto 1.jpg
 
   / 3320 Rear Hydraulics Problem #10  
Sorry I can't help with pics, but I'm glad you ID'ed the problem!
 

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