34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway

   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #21  


Box Blade versus Land Plane videos:







BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR​
 
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   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #22  
Where is your land located?

How much of your total 34 acres is tractor acessible?

What tasks do you foresee for your tractor beyond gravel work and possibly moving snow?

A heavier, wider tractor will keep you safe as you learn the do's and DON'TS of tractor operation. You will likely want a tractor of 3,700 to 5,000 pounds bare tractor weight.

Tractors of less than 3,000 pounds bare tractor weight are generally recommended for use on 1-10 flat acres.
 
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   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #23  
So much depends on the owner and what level of mechanical work and weather exposure he finds comfortable within that budget.

My guess is that with so much acreage and a steep driveway he already knows his tractor is not going to be "push button everything and climate controlled". There will be some old cloths an muscle work involved.

Like Lou says, he can save a bundle with 2wd + chains for winter instead of buying a new part time 4wd. There are no full time 4wd tractors in his price range.

Good news is that all tractors have a locking differential and individual wheel brakes.
My experience is that those two features plus chains have better traction and control than a 4wd without chains - particularly on slopes.

I agree! Both diff locks and rear wheel brakes are super useful in low traction situations.

Please do get power steering,

Especially if you get a loader, which you really should.

He can & should look at the used market. There 2wd is more common. Buying used can fetch a larger popular premium brand of tractor that holds its value for the same money as paying for new tractor in a less well known brand. Only the OP knows what it would take to make him comfortable buying used. But it is always worth considering.

Most new tractors are still available with the optional shuttle/glide/power shift. Those are called "clutchless powershifts" and are very reliable and powerful. Some folks prefer them. They same thousands over a hydrostatic (HST) transmission
Be really careful about what kind of shuttle a tractor has got.

"Shuttle" at a minimum is a separate forward/reverse gear box. Instead of shifting the main transmission into reverse as you do in a car, you use a lever that's usually on the steering column.

The problem is that some cheaper tractors, usually in the smaller HP range, have just the shuttle gearbox. You still have to clutch to go between forward and reverse, and you have to stop to shift gears in the main transmission because it's not synchromesh.

Even cheaper tractors don't have the shuttle, and have non sychro transmissions. You have to stop to shift the main transmission or to go into reverse. Most compact tractors with gear transmissions are like this. Not even a shuttle.

Synchro shuttles have synchromesh in the main transmission and shuttle, so you can change gears while moving, still using the clutch. This is really useful.

Then there are power shuttles where the automotive style dry clutch is replaced by a wet clutch that is hydraulically operated. With these you can move the shuttle lever and it will clutch for you. These are generally found in larger tractors sold for ag use, roughly 65 hp and hp.

There are weird hybrids like my Deere's synchro reverser which is a basic non synchro everything gear transmission except there are synchros between forward low range and reverse range. You still have to clutch between them but the tractor can be rolling.

To keep a set PTO speed you need to run the engine at a certain RPM.
With HST the tractor ground speed is infinitely variable from zero to whatever the max is in the selected range and independent of engine speed. With any of the geared transmissions, ground speed in a given gear is determined by engine speed.

So for example if you're mowing a plot that is on a slope and you want to be in a lower gear for the uphill (power) and downhill (engine braking) legs while going across the slope you can go faster. With HST you just change the pedal position. With a geared tractor you will need to downshift when you start the uphill or downhill leg. If it's a non synchro gear transmission, you have to clutch and stop to do it. If it's got synchro on the main transmission you can shift while moving. If it's a power shuttle you still need to declutch but that may be a button on the shifter.

With any geared tractor, you're stuck going the speed that the gears give you at the engine speed you need to run the PTO. Often there's only the choice between too fast and not as fast as you could go. Some implements don't need exact PTO speed so you can vary that some to get the ground speed you want, depending on conditions.

Of course when you're doing something that does not involve a PTO implement that needs to be at a certain RPM, you can set the ground speed with a combination of gear selection and engine speed.
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #24  
I have 300’ rise in 1/2 mile driveway, steep and curvy thru the woods. Used a Ford 800 gas tractor with 6’ rear blade mostly backwards to maintain for decades. $3-4K.

Now use 59hp, diesel, 4wd with land plane. Is easier, better maintenance, longer lasting and less time. Rear blade and yardbox have sat for years after getting land plane.

Woods work and maintenance 4wd with four post ROPS for safety. Good front end loader with grapple. It takes work, looking many listings, quick money in hand and patience but can be had for less than $40K used… or use to.
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #25  
I agree! Both diff locks and rear wheel brakes are super useful in low traction situations.



Especially if you get a loader, which you really should.


Be really careful about what kind of shuttle a tractor has got.

"Shuttle" at a minimum is a separate forward/reverse gear box. Instead of shifting the main transmission into reverse as you do in a car, you use a lever that's usually on the steering column.

The problem is that some cheaper tractors, usually in the smaller HP range, have just the shuttle gearbox. You still have to clutch to go between forward and reverse, and you have to stop to shift gears in the main transmission because it's not synchromesh.

Even cheaper tractors don't have the shuttle, and have non sychro transmissions. You have to stop to shift the main transmission or to go into reverse. Most compact tractors with gear transmissions are like this. Not even a shuttle.

Synchro shuttles have synchromesh in the main transmission and shuttle, so you can change gears while moving, still using the clutch. This is really useful.

Then there are power shuttles where the automotive style dry clutch is replaced by a wet clutch that is hydraulically operated. With these you can move the shuttle lever and it will clutch for you. These are generally found in larger tractors sold for ag use, roughly 65 hp and hp.

There are weird hybrids like my Deere's synchro reverser which is a basic non synchro everything gear transmission except there are synchros between forward low range and reverse range. You still have to clutch between them but the tractor can be rolling.

To keep a set PTO speed you need to run the engine at a certain RPM.
With HST the tractor ground speed is infinitely variable from zero to whatever the max is in the selected range and independent of engine speed. With any of the geared transmissions, ground speed in a given gear is determined by engine speed.

So for example if you're mowing a plot that is on a slope and you want to be in a lower gear for the uphill (power) and downhill (engine braking) legs while going across the slope you can go faster. With HST you just change the pedal position. With a geared tractor you will need to downshift when you start the uphill or downhill leg. If it's a non synchro gear transmission, you have to clutch and stop to do it. If it's got synchro on the main transmission you can shift while moving. If it's a power shuttle you still need to declutch but that may be a button on the shifter.

With any geared tractor, you're stuck going the speed that the gears give you at the engine speed you need to run the PTO. Often there's only the choice between too fast and not as fast as you could go. Some implements don't need exact PTO speed so you can vary that some to get the ground speed you want, depending on conditions.

Of course when you're doing something that does not involve a PTO implement that needs to be at a certain RPM, you can set the ground speed with a combination of gear selection and engine speed.
That's way too complicated. True, some older basic shuttle shifts required that the operator select a gear and then could shuttle Forward/Reverse with a hand lever. Some really basic/inexpensive ones did require clutching. JD was particularly behind the times on their older shuttle and power shifts.

But most of the power shifts in the last 30 years or so - I won't say "modern" - allow an Op to select a Range, and then if is just a one finger movement of a steering column lever to shift through all four or however many gears are in that range and either forward or reverse. No need to ever touch the clutch unless to stop and change ranges.

That means that for a person on a budget, there are decent working options to the premium price for the same tractor

Just for grins, price a new 2wd tractor with chains, a shuttle shift, no accessory hydraulics, just a basic loader, and manual implements. All of a sudden really some nice new tractors become available for budget prices. Used ones are even more affordable.

rScotty
 
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   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #26  
A dream come true property was purchased. I now have a 1/4 mile gravel driveway. I suspect I need a tractor and a box blade to maintain it. I might need snow removal too.

In my area I have LS, Kubota, and Mahindra dealerships.

Any suggestions?
Kubota 3902 or Grand L 4060
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #27  
I have 300’ rise in 1/2 mile driveway, steep and curvy thru the woods. Used a Ford 800 gas tractor with 6’ rear blade mostly backwards to maintain for decades. $3-4K.

Now use 59hp, diesel, 4wd with land plane. Is easier, better maintenance, longer lasting and less time. Rear blade and yardbox have sat for years after getting land plane.

Woods work and maintenance 4wd with four post ROPS for safety. Good front end loader with grapple. It takes work, looking many listings, quick money in hand and patience but can be had for less than $40K used… or use to.
I got a 6ft land plane a couple years ago. Best darn implement that I have ever used on a driveway.Good investment.
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #28  
It sounds like a well built driveway. Drive it at 10 mph and your "maintenence" will be limited or at least prolong the frequency.
Good luck with your new property, you'll enjoy it.
After having a "land plane", I'd never recommend a box blade for driveway maintenance.
Yep! Follow your mother's advise on gravel roads: slow down and stay out of the puddles! For maintenance, you really can't beat a land plane. These pieces make finish grading a breeze and can even help establish/maintain the road crown. They are darned-near idiot proof. Evidence? Speaking!😆
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #29  
I have about 80 acres and a 1/4 mile+ driveway; the land is mostly pasture with a few groves of pine trees around the edges; also have a 5 acre lake.
I bought a used New Holland 35 hp 4-wheel drive, with a front end loader ... the FEL is a must-have for me. I also have a 6' brush-hog, 9' sickle mower, forks which attach to the FEL, and a rear blade. A cab wouldn't work for me because I like to pull the brush-hog through the pine trees and the limbs are too low for a cab (the ROPS is always up though).
For my situation, the tractor is just the right size (a larger tractor wouldn't fit between the pine trees). I wouldn't want to do without the FEL, the brush-hog, or the sickle mower (mainly for mowing around the lake and under the trees at the edge of the pasture) ... the forks and the blade have hardly been used.
I just re-graveled my driveway to the tune of nearly $8,000 ... so a land plane is next on my list so I can maintain the driveway ... I don't want to drop that kind of money on gravel again if at all possible.
Good luck with whatever you decide and enjoy the new property!!!
 
   / 34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway #30  
So, something people miss with gravel/rock/"stabalized drives", to some degree, quit messing with it. What I mean, you don't need or want to be grading that thing every few weeks, unless the is a major problem. I see people complaining about grass growing... so. Couple minor dips, leave it. Every time you regrade, you're lossing up the material
 

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