Buying Advice 3520 JD prices

[pwallace]

Hello, Looking at two 3520 JD's one new one used. I would like some advise if anyone has any to share. The 2007 used one has a 300X loader with a bolt on tooth bar, a MX6 cutter and a canopy (JD) installed. It has 298 hours on it and it look's like it has been taken care of. I can get it for $19,000 does this seem about right? I can get a brand new one just about the same except 300CX loader and a very slightly used cutter (not sure if it's a MX6) but it is the same size and it is so new that the paint isn't even worn off the safety chains. The only thing that the dealer didn't include was the tooth bar for the FEL bucket. I'm also unsure if it has a mid PTO (Used one does) I can get it for $25,293 not including state tax which would be another 5%. Any thought's on this price?
I can see advantages to buying new, warranty, financing, (if I buy used I would have to borrow the money) but $6000 is a pretty big savings.
I started out looking at the Deere 2720 an Kubota B3200 but they are quite a bit smaller machines both weight wise and HP wise. I wanted to use a sickle bar and have been told that 5' is about the limit size wise for both? Also interested in using a wood chipper (Wallenstine 62) but the Kubota dealer said that it was a little large for the 3200 also he recommended the 42 as the right size I assume the same is true of the Deere.
I like several ergonomic features on the Deere line like the quicktatch mowerdeck feature and the placement of the Hydro pedals on the Deere vs. the Kubota but I like the way that the BH is attatched on the Kubota. If I go with a Deere it's either a three point or remove the subframe to use a belly mower. I don't plan on using the BH a lot but I don't want to jerk out the mounts on the frame either. Nothing in the Kubota L series allows using a belly mower and a BH either as far as I can tell.
I have back and neck problems so I would really like to use a belly mower for most of my cutting but could use the brush hog on some areas of my property also just wouldn't be looking back much in the rough areas. Lots of questions I know THANKS in advance for any replies I might get.

Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

First, welcome to the forum

When making the comparisons and purchasing new tractors I use the "Build your own" section on the Deere site to get the msrp price and then expect to get 15 to 20% off of that. Then look at the 0% finance offers to see what works. Buying used if borrowing the money you need to figure in the loan costs to get an accurate cost comparison.

About the implements I agree the 62 series is too large for the 3520 and would think the 42 is more appropriate. The MX6 I have has been a good cutter and to compare it to another cutter you need to establish which one it is as there is a wide spectrum of both low and high quality cutters out there, and the prices vary alot too.

The 300X and 300CX are both good loaders but the CX has a higher capacity. I don't know much else about them as I prefer not to use ag loaders.

Trying to fit the mmm, backhoe with subframe and taking into consideration back and neck problems leads me to offer a different solution. Look into a separate riding mower with mmm. Then you can use the rear cutter or backhoe without all the mounting issues. The cost of a decent riding mower is not that much more than the mmm for this tractor and less strain on your back and neck to see whats going on.

As for the decision to buy used you haven't said whether this is offered by a dealer or not and will he stand behind it to any degree. That $6000 could go towards the backhoe and mower so definately worth some consideration. Three hundred well cared for hours is barely broken in if that is the case.

Do both units have the same transmission? Any other differences like wheel weights and add ons?

 

[pwallace]

The cutter is a Deere but I'm not sure of the model #. The used tractor is a owner sale not dealer and as far as differences only the CX vs. X loaders and the tooth bar on the bucket. I didn't look under the new machine to see if it had mid PTO and I am unsure if either had cruise, extra valves or other similar accessories.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

If I go with a Deere it's either a three point or remove the subframe to use a belly mower. I don't plan on using the BH a lot but I don't want to jerk out the mounts on the frame either. Lots of questions I know THANKS in advance for any replies I might get.

Pete

Not sure if this comment was in relation to 2x20 series or 3x20 series, but to clarify - on the 3x20 you can have the FEL / MMM and BH all attached at the same time.

 

[pwallace]

Really? I thought (was told by a local dealer) that if you used a subframe mounted backhoe that you had to remove the subframe to mount a MMM. Have I been misled? This makes a decision even easier for me if this is true. I have been hesitating purchasing a Deere because of this reason. If you can leave the subframe on and still mount the MMM it sells the machine for me. I did not want to use a hoe on a three point mount because I think it is a terribly weak setup but I thought that with a Deere that was the only choice other than removing a bunch of stuff every time you wanted to use the mower. Is this true with Woods and Walenstine BH's or is it just the Deere hoe?
THANKS
Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

Pete,
I don't think any of the major players are making 3pt backhoes for their tractors anymore. Atleast Deere and Kubota use subframe mounts for everything I have seen.

 

[2YD]

Really? I thought (was told by a local dealer) that if you used a subframe mounted backhoe that you had to remove the subframe to mount a MMM. Have I been misled?
Pete

As CinderSchnauzer said.... My experience is Dealers don't understand BH's on the 3x20 series. My dealer had no clue the 485 BH works as a substitute for the 375 on the 3x20 series. TBN contributors have more hands-on facts than the salesmen.

My $.02 is if you're going to buy new save your $$ and delete the MMM ($3920) and mid-PTO kit ($577) and go with a new/used RFM (~$1k-$2k). My mistake was ordering a mid-PTO that I won't be using. Of course your lot conditions may be the determining factor on mowing/snow removal requirements. Good luck!

 

[shane]

TBN contributors have more hands-on facts than the salesmen.

Amen!!! I've seen it time and time again.

 

[pwallace]

OK, but can someone tell me for sure that you can or can't mount a MMM without removing the subframe on the JD 485? Deere and Kubota don't offer three point mounts but Woods does. Kubota does not require removal of the subframe for use with their MMM. I asked Deere dealer's and like you all say they don't seem to be able to answer this question. One has a used Kelly hoe (three point mount) that I think he's bent on selling me and I'm really not interested I just don't think it is a strong mount he says that for light use it will do fine! I am not so sure. I want to buy the Deere I like the ergonomics more but can't decide because of the subframe question Kubota wins that category at least JD 2720 vs Kubota B3200 if the 3x20 seres is different that is where I will try to go. Even with added expense it will be worth it in the long run for me.
The reason again I am interested in MMM over RMF (and the ability to leave the subframe on while mounting the MMM) is due to disc problems in my neck. I just can't ride around all day looking over my shoulder.
THANKS
Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

According to Deere's website the Auto connect deck is compatible and with back and neck problems may be the best for you to consider if not wanting a separate mower. If you are not familiar with this feature you should research it here. Read the lower left insert and watch the video.

AutoConnect Mid-Mount Mower Decks for 60D and 72D : AutoConnect