Dave, I have the shaft and am going to look at it with a microscope and look for banded tempering markings indicative of induction tempering problem. Will investigate the propagation of the crack origination and machining imperfections. Right now I'm thinking of a name for the cantankerous tractor. It is dissapointing, but I have never used such a comfortable tractor.
3550 hst problems,cheap built,lemon?
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DavesTractor
Elite Member
That's one reason that every shop needs a dyno. After a repair, you can run the snot out of it for 1/2 hour or so and often if you are going to have a leak, it will show up under load with a warm engine. Basically, you mimic the customers usage and eliminate a lot of callbacks and disappointments. Before we had our dyno, we would put a large mower on a tractor and look around the neighborhood for some tall grass. But after a while, you can't find any...it's all cut! A dyno is easier. You see old dyno's for $2500 sometimes. New ones are 10x that, but you do not need a new one or even a certified 100% accurate machine just to load up a tractor.
Sounds like the dealer is responsive and will get this fixed. It is an impressive tractor when running as designed. BTW, I sold one to a buddy a few years back (the 5035, really similar but without the fancy engine controls) and he has yet to have a problem with it. Sold a 4035 to another friend and it's been really reliable except we had to swap out the fuel hoses. And he uses it hard. Once the kinks are worked out, I'm hopeful you will have years and years of good service. Other brands with DPFs are having quite a few issues. You are avoiding DPF issues, if that is any consolation.
jb1390
Gold Member
If it's a fuel leak while sitting, it might not show up while running since the fuel system is under vacuum. Little bubbles will be pulled in along with the fuel, which won't be apparent until it is shut off and the system loses prime. I would also check the fuel cap to make sure it is not completely sealing the tank - I have had issues multiple times with mine, and I know my dealer has replaced a few collapsed tanks. The tractor starts very hard if there is a vacuum in the tank. If you combine a small air leak in a fuel line with a fuel cap that does not vent, you could easily have a no start condition.
Theoretically, Mahindra was designing a better cap, but I haven't heard anything further on it. 3550hst, make sure you leave the cap a little loose to allow air into the tank as fuel is used.
dickfoster
Elite Member
How about Cranky.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
Perfect, I think that's a winner.
Hey everyone. It has worked for a number of days and starts quickly. Horsepower is greatly improved too. Before the fix, only low range could get it up hills. Now it doesn't lose too much rpm at 20 percent grade.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
That is encouraging. Sounds like it is running as designed. Finally.
mcfarmall
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Yes, good news! I've been watching this thread closely as I am most certain that when I buy, I'm getting a 3550 but with the PST transmission. Thanks for the updates and make sure you let everyone know what the drive shaft failure analysis reveals.
We got the HST transmission because the super easy driving. Don't regret it at all and doesnt seem to rob power. Using the bucket is 20 times easier with the HST. I thought I wanted shuttle shift, which is good, but the hst makes a lot of other things easier. On level ground (safety people are going to laugh) you can be off of your tractor and use your hand on the pedals to inch up to that 1000 pound cutter. It was super convenient when drilling holes to operate the drill standing on the ground. I lightly set the parking brake so I could position the auger to start. When the auger gets in the ground, you can inch backwards to keep it straight. For brush hogging HST is just plain better because of the speed control and the back and forth near woods. I hope this helps.
jb1390
Gold Member
I also have a 3550hst - and the hydro works very well for my tasks. For loader work, precise material handling, and ease of operation it's the way to go. It does lose some power due to the transmission, but the only time I notice that is when driving in high range - which isn't very often for me. Another advantage of HST for me is that lots of people run my tractor - and it's really easy to operate. I'd be much more nervous letting someone on the seat for a PST. The tractor has enough power to run a 6 foot bushhog in 2-3' grass uphill, as fast as I can drive in medium range. I sometimes wish it had 5 ranges - especially one between medium and high range. If you are doing hay work, lots of mowing, road travel, and not lots of loader work, the power shuttle might be a better choice.
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
it works great to mount/dismount my backhoe, like that. I haven't taken off the fel, but I'm sure I'd do it that way too.
I see no downside to an hst.
dickfoster
Elite Member
I can see right now that a gear tractor is waiting in **** and it has your name on it. LOL And it might even be a Deere or worse.
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
I doubt it. The gear was not that much of a torture machine for me.
I had a gear tractor for almost 25 years and was happy with it, until I got the hst. I could use a gear fine, but the hst is just so much easier and versatile to use.
If all I have waiting for me in **** is a gear machine, I'll be happy.
I had a gear tractor for almost 25 years and was happy with it, until I got the hst. I could use a gear fine, but the hst is just so much easier and versatile to use.
If all I have waiting for me in **** is a gear machine, I'll be happy.
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That got me thinking... there's a gear tractor in **** waiting for me with several hundred 3pt implements resting on uneven ground that I have to move to the other side of **** every day.
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And I don't know if it has turfs, or R4's, either.
dickfoster
Elite Member
Cheat. If all you have to do is move them, just move them with the loader and some chain if necessary. There are no rules in **** ya know.
darmstrong2319
Gold Member
Or just move them with a grapple, grab n go
The shaft must be the designed weak link. It is not hardened or it wasn't hardened since it was broached. The direction of the twist was in the reverse direction; which means it sheared with forces in the reverse. I was expecting the opposite, like taking to much torsion going into a gravel pile or ramming something.
The splines did not shatter as a hardened piece would, but rather they twisted right along with the core metal. An engineer would have probably deliberatly made this piece weaker since it is the cheapest piece to replace. the only time I could imagine the front wheels took extra force was getting gravel from a creek and punching it in reverse as I coming fast at a hidden root ball (I hit it anyway).
The splines did not shatter as a hardened piece would, but rather they twisted right along with the core metal. An engineer would have probably deliberatly made this piece weaker since it is the cheapest piece to replace. the only time I could imagine the front wheels took extra force was getting gravel from a creek and punching it in reverse as I coming fast at a hidden root ball (I hit it anyway).
Just some hydro advice. Everything I have is hydrostatic. Your tractor should handle seven foot cutter too.
Grass requires some sharpness, but brush goes down easy with the 3550. Please blow off the entire radiator area each time you use it. The egr cooler adds another coil and it really needs it. Always let her cool down at idle before shutting her down. In addition, specific to the hydrostat: Don't let her groan. Keep rpms above 2000 (2500 for cutting) because the lower the rpms--the higher the angle of the swashplate. It is better to have higher rpms with less angle on the swashplate to reduce wear and fade. A hydrostat is a power-washer pump. Literally. Several small pistons arranged in a circle with an angled plate raking over the ends. The slower it turns, the more the pistons get slapped on the side and less on the top. The same amount of work gets done, just more wear on the little pistons and their bores. So, high range really is only for road travel.
Grass requires some sharpness, but brush goes down easy with the 3550. Please blow off the entire radiator area each time you use it. The egr cooler adds another coil and it really needs it. Always let her cool down at idle before shutting her down. In addition, specific to the hydrostat: Don't let her groan. Keep rpms above 2000 (2500 for cutting) because the lower the rpms--the higher the angle of the swashplate. It is better to have higher rpms with less angle on the swashplate to reduce wear and fade. A hydrostat is a power-washer pump. Literally. Several small pistons arranged in a circle with an angled plate raking over the ends. The slower it turns, the more the pistons get slapped on the side and less on the top. The same amount of work gets done, just more wear on the little pistons and their bores. So, high range really is only for road travel.
