3pt hitch help

   / 3pt hitch help
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I will try working over the ball things. They move but not freely.

The implements are outside. Having them inside on wheels would be way too easy. I wish I had the room. Oh ya, and maybe a level spot to take them on and off wouldn't hurt either.

Eric
 
   / 3pt hitch help #13  
SoundGuy and Slowrey,

I absolutelty agree..."pick a nice flat spot...". If I had one, or a leveled equipment shed floor, I'd be in 7th heaven. However, on a side hill in VT (a bit more hilly and rocky than FL) I'm luck if I can find a spot within 5 deg. of level (and no rocks). You have given good advise for this post, but I'll take the quick hitch approach and not have to carry any "persuaders". The time saved backing up to the Grooming mower or Rear Blade and mostly just lifting the I-Match and throwing the latches, compared to persuading attachments onto the 3PH gives me more time to make a few $'s cutting neighbor's lawns, or avoid all the cussing and just get some work done here. I still vote for any reasonable quick hitch system over beating on expensive equipment (IMHO).

Tom
 
   / 3pt hitch help #14  
Eric, All good advice, The 6 foot pry bar and 4x4 maul are my method.

A few other things I use… My L4200 has creep, so I can stand beside it and shuttle fore and aft to get aligned, Once you are close, if you turn your steering wheel left or right it will skew your tractor slightly to the opposite direction. KennyV.
 
   / 3pt hitch help #15  
Once in a long while it is a chore, but most of the time it should go much easier than that.

A landscape rake or a back blade I just back up close, you can pick up the blade & push it around a little bit, never have gotten back on the tractor until it was mounted.

Most of us have small tractors around here, you should be able to rock the tractor back & forth a couple inches on the wheel, line things up.

I have 2 cat 1, 1 cat 2, and one cat 3N tractors, lots & lots & lots of 3pt shuffling around here, with bigger implements & tractors. It shouldn't be that difficult.

Be careful of quick hitches - all your implements must have the same 3pt dimentions & allow room for that top hook - many tend to be a _bit_ different. As well pto operation & shifting the weight back 2-4 inches can be a factor. Otherwise, the quick hitches are nice, as well as Pat's system advertized here.

--->Paul
 
   / 3pt hitch help #16  
didn't realize you did not have level ground to hitch up at. Yes this does complicate things some, but with practice......
Ben
 
   / 3pt hitch help #17  
Eric,
Like others have siad...
It just takes some practice. You'll get real quick at it soon enough so that you don't even need a pry bar. Just back up and hook up.

Rich
 
   / 3pt hitch help #18  
Slowrev,
I keep waiting for that quiet day so I can hear the neighbor's Ford dripping oil but it never comes because I can't hear it over the sound of the oil dripping from my John Deere.
 
   / 3pt hitch help #19  
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Ben
btw, I have some devout Ford fans as neighbors and relatives. All I know is I have spent more time and money working on any Ford I have had than other brands.
 
   / 3pt hitch help #20  
Eric,
Here is a thread that might be helpful: Help

The thread deals with wrestling with a brush hog rather that a boxblade, but the technique is the same.

Here is a copy of my post on detaching the implement:

<font color="blue">"Actually, removing the brush hog should be a snap, require little, if any muscle most of the time, and impress your neighbor.

First, remove the PTO shaft, as described in an earlier post. Collapse the shaft and let it rest on the front edge of the deck.

Second, remove the toplink pin. When the brush hog is sitting at rest, there is a "sweet spot" in the length of the toplink where there is no pressure on the pin. Usually, you are very close to being there when the unit is sitting flat on the ground. However, the toplink can be too long or too short for the purpose of easily removing the pin. For example, when lowering the brush hog to the ground, if the tailwheel touches down much before the front of the deck, the toplink is too long, ie pushing on it's attachment point. If the toplink is short, the front of the deck will touch ground before the tailwheel and be pulling as the tailwheel comes to the ground. Does that make sense? So, the toplink may need to be lengthened or shortened a bit to remove the pin easily. As you approach the "sweet spot", turning the adjustment rod gets easier, and you can actually see the toplink pin shift a little from front to back (while lengthening) or back to front (shortening) as you reach the "sweet spot". No sweat. Now you've got the toplink undone. By the way, my use of "too long" and "too short" only applies to removing the toplink pin, and not to proper toplink adjustment for use of the implement when cutting.

Next, is the part that's hardest for most folks, but is really easiest of all...removing the lift arms from the implement lift pins. For this part you may need a little WD40, but little else. You will let physics work for you and really impress your neighbor. TRACTOR PHYSICS 101- When backing, the 3PH lift arms want to spread apart and come off of the lift pins. The opposite is also true. When mounting the implement...driving forward wants to bring the lft arms closer together, ie they'll slide onto the lift pins. That's a topic for another day. Lower the 3PH all the way down. Then, spray a little WD40 on the lift arm balls and lift pins. If there is a rubber/bungee cord connecting the two lift arms, remove it temporarily. Pull the lynch pins. Back the tractor an inch at a time (With my hydrostat trannie, I do this while standing beside the tractor), and the lift arms will slide right off (no hammer, no kicks, no muss, no fuss), easy as can be...very impressive to female neighbors.

I'm sorry this post is so long, but this 3PH mount/dismount thing requires some explanation to make it the simple chore it should be. A little practice, a little finesse, and you'll be a pro.

Good luck with your neighbor's tractor! "</font>

The thread link above has input from other TBNer's on this topic, as well.

OkieG
 
 

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