3pt hitch help

FL_Cracker · Jul 11, 2005

Eric, I agree with you that the 3PH system needs updating. I use to dread changing attachments. Too much work and too dangerous with someone else moving the tractor while you get in between the tractor and attachment and attempt to push the pins in place.

Two weeks ago I bitthe bullet and order a Freedom Hitch for my tractor and one female end for each implement. Now I can only say the "Life Is GOOD". I don't even get out of the seat if the implement has NO drive shaft. I did order the hydraulic top cylinder from Freedom Hitch at the same time. Now I just back up to the implement and lift it up and it SNAPS in place and I'm off. To disconnect you just set it down and lean back and push the lever. Then down a little more with the 3PH and if OFF....

It really does work... GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Take a look at their web site... Freedom Hitch

Charles

Pilot · Jul 11, 2005

I found it helpful to set my implements down on a pallet. They can be slid around a little easier on the wood than on the dirt.

One of your lift arms (usually the right one) should have a height adjustment. Hook up the non adjustable one first, because you can raise & lower the 3PH as needed to line it up. Then the top link, after which you can use it's adjustment range to help line up the second lift arm fore & aft. Then on the adjustable lift arm, adjust the height as necessary to line it up vertically. Once I started using this sequence, my hitching started going a lot faster. Before, however, when I had a lot of trouble, I understood why so many farmers had several tractors: one per implement!

cisco · Jul 11, 2005

Agree with prior posts re. mounting sequence - come on, it's not all that hard.
For 4 years, I changed implements, and the FEL, on reasonably level dirt, with frequent assistance from a 2X4 and a large rubber mallet. It can be a pain, especially when you're a novice (as I was - took darn near 1/2 an hour the first FEL change, less for the brush cutter), but after a dozen or so times you'll get facile, and can change out a brush cutter in under 10 minutes, including the darn pto shaft (the Woods shafts are way too balky). Now I've a garage with a level floor and 2X6 dollies with large wheels - really easy, except for the pto shaft, BUT I remember my "roots" in the dirt. An uneven FEL position on dirt is something I never want to experience again (can break a 2X4 trying to wedge the FEL around).

flusher · Jul 11, 2005

Been reading this thread with much interest. Just finished installing the 3-pt hitch on my new KK 48" brush hog today. Have to backfill electrical trenches tomorrow, but plan to hook up the hog on Wednesday to my equally new B7510HST.

I'm a complete newby to tractors and implements and, like most novices, have read the operating manuals for the tractor and hog and have spent a lot of time in the TBN safety forum getting educated, mostly, on what not to do if you don't want your tractor to turn on you.

In particular, it's been drilled into my brain that under no circumstances should I get off the seat without shutting down the tractor completely and putting the key in my pocket.

However, I notice in this thread that several of the old pros recommend operating the tractor while standing on the ground in order to get the 3 pt hitch aligned when attaching implements.

It's OK to get off a running tractor when hitching up implements, but, otherwise, turn it off before getting out of the seat? It's OK to give the gas pedal on an HST tractor little gooses while standing on the ground in order to get that **** hitch aligned and attached?

What am I missing here?

Slamfire · Jul 11, 2005

Well I park my bush hog on an old tire and wheel. Just put a marker where the stump jumper is centered on the wheel. Now when hookin' or unhookin' it is simple to give the hog a little turn so it hooks up to the lift arm. The key in your pocket thing is really a requirment when dealin' with the pto, Otherwise brakes locked and tranny in neutral seems to be sufficient.
Other implements get the furniture dolly treatment. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

KennyV · Jul 12, 2005

Ray,
Of course you are right… BUT the safest approach is not ALWAYS the most practical or expedient. Until you have become VERY familiar with your equipment I would never suggest that you try any “short cut”.
There are many things through out your weekly routine that you have developed work arounds to get your project at hand completed. (In your home in your car in your life)…This is not to say anyone is trying to find reckless ways to accomplish things. To the contrary, as you become familiar with things, you realize the exact dangers involved and you work within these parameters.

Don’t try any easier way to do anything until AFTER you have became comfortably familiar with the methods that accompany the operators manuals that come with the equipment. The bottom line is ONLY you can be responsible for what you do. After a few decades you may find yourself taking some well thought out solutions to life’s smaller problems. If you still feel the need to remove the key before you get off your tractor that’s ok too… don’t forget to curb the wheels, lower all raised implements and set the parking brakes. KennyV.

keeney · Jul 12, 2005

In my opinion, operating the tractor in gear (HST or not) from the ground is not a smart idea.

Peddles and controls can stick, snag on clothing, snag on branches, etc. Operators have been known to push reverse when they want forward, panic and mash even more reverse again, etc. If the tractor starts moving uncontrollably and you don't have room or time to get out of the way, bad things can happen quickly. You don't want to be one of those guys they find squished under their own tractor.

Nobody is going to be impressed when you show them how quickly you can disconnect the implement AND run yourself over in one operation.

It doesn't take that much effort to climb on and off the tractor.

Some advice on how to do it safely - mostly from the seat:

On my smaller JD 4100, I can reach back from the seat and reach down with a rubber mallet or a short 2x4 and lightly tap the arms on or off the pins while simultaneously driving the tractor slight forward or back and lifting or lowering the 3-pt to align it up. With practice, I can now usually get the arms at least started on the pins without leaving the seat. One key is to always at least partially engage the low side pin of a non-level implement first (if you try to hook up the high side first, its hard to get the other arm to go down - they are connected together). Then use the 3-pt to lift the implement roughly level so that the other arm can be connected. You can also push or pull slightly with the one connected side dragging and twisting the implement, fine-tuning the front to back alignment for the other side.

Top link is last. Use the top-link length adjust to align the pin and slide it in easy.

- Rick

KennyV · Jul 12, 2005

Hello Rick.
I, like others was just addressing Eric’s question and then following up to Ray’s question.
I, nor anyone else suggested it was a ‘smart idea to operate the tractor from the ground’… it is necessary at times. Smart would be never changing attachments, have enough cash flow to dedicate a tractor to each implement, that would be smart.

The possibility of operator error is always going to be present (on or off the seat).
I also don’t recall anyone stating they were out to impress anyone in their ability or lack of it. These are all expressions of how different folks apply different methods to accomplish similar tasks. If you re-read the posts, I think no one has stated doing anything that is completely reckless. It all amounts to getting familiar, not careless, with the operation of the gear with which you are working. Only you will know how careful and attentive you are, the responsibility of doing anything ultimately rests on the individual.

Oh, and be carefull not to pinch your fingers while snapping the cinch pins. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif KennyV

JoeL4330 · Jul 12, 2005

I, too, frequently must hitch up to implement on non-level ground, and advice about first hooking up the lower arm is absolutely right ...then, trick of moving/raising implement helps bring other arm to proper position ...but, top link is not necessarily last for me, and with it and one arm attached, lifting implement brings things into alignment quite nicely.

As for keeping the tractor running, while I appreciate the safety factor in a pocketed key, I tend to let it run while I hook up the lower arm and top link, then operate lift lever from ground ...and, for the ultimate in efficiency, I try to offload the implement with lift-lever side uphill to save a few steps between lifting and securing the higher arm.

But (a big but), I shut down and pocket the key (which I can easily do from the ground on the lift-lever side) when I go to attach the PTO, primarily for safety, but also because I can then turn the shaft on the tractor freely to line up the splines. (Don't try it, but if when running, my HST will only turn the tiniest fraction, i.e., the "backlash".)

Have used the bucket curl trick, on occasion, but with a toothbar, you can make a heck of a mess quite easily.