3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control

   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control
  • Thread Starter
#51  
I think the 3rd function is confusing you. That type of valve is designed to handle the system pressure on the tank port. Because of that it does not need power beyond to feed the next valve.

Normal spool valves like remote valves need to have power beyond to feed the next valve and a tank port for return flow. The tank port can T into any tank line except the 3rd function valve. So the set up would be like this.

Tank line from 3rd function to Power in on new valve. Power Beyond from new valve to power in on back hoe. Tank from new valve connected with a T to the tank line from your loader.
Thanks again. I think someone mentioned that before and I forgot.

That may help explain why the Kubota valve (70090-20794) lists at over $1500 and the valves I've looked at are $150.

In any case, a T is not all that bad I guess. However, if there is no problem with flow restriction (flow through), to the BH I may consider letting the new valve stay connected all the time. Tractor max is about 9GPM, I can get 10GPM or better valves for reasonable prices. Since the supply to the BH consists of two hoses joined by a union I could separate them, add a short hose from the supply hose to the input port of the valve and use the now free host with quick connect to run from the PB port of the new valve to the BH. With appropriate fittings, etc.

The only down side I see to leaving it in is more heating of oil when using the BH heavily, due to flow restrictions from the added fittings and hoses.

As long as that would work, I'll keep chasing my tail to see how best to work that out, What I might save in added quick connect fittings might get consumed by more hose costs.

But don't let that stop helpful hints.
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control #52  
Definitely leave it connected all the time. It will not hurt a thing.
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control
  • Thread Starter
#53  
This is more of a mechanical/mounting issues and I should probably post this as a new thread, but . . .

Now that I have settled my valve selection issue I'm ready to mount the valve(s) so I can get on with getting the hoses made up.

Kubota instructions show the valve mount made of, I suppose 3/16 or 1/4 plate steel bolted to 3 bolts where the fender mounts to the frame. Requires the bolts to be replaced with longer bolts and the tire removed to allow that.

The plate is shaped and bent to go around the engine speed control and kind of follow the ROPS so the valve mounts to the right of the operator facing forward.

I could emulate that with a bit of effort, but, seems to me I could just fabricate a plate with some flanges to fit around the ROPS upright and "ubolt" it to the ROPS. Probably just use "clamp bar" and straight through bolts to lock the thing to the ROPS. I like the idea as I am cheap and lazy, and, it seems a lot simpler and faster to do.

That seem unsafe or just wrong to anyone?
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control #54  
Depends - being old/cranky/fussy, my recommendation would be to sit in the seat, swing your arm (the one you'll use to control) around in a COMFORTABLE arc - where it stops being comfy, stop swinging.

Anywhere in that "comfy" arc that works mechanically, is the ONLY place I would consider mounting. Otherwise, instead of a smile on your face every time you use it, you'll just wish you'd NOT taken a shortcut (unless, of course, the shortcut DOES fall in the "comfy" zone... Steve
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control
  • Thread Starter
#55  
Depends - being old/cranky/fussy, my recommendation would be to sit in the seat, swing your arm (the one you'll use to control) around in a COMFORTABLE arc - where it stops being comfy, stop swinging.

Anywhere in that "comfy" arc that works mechanically, is the ONLY place I would consider mounting. Otherwise, instead of a smile on your face every time you use it, you'll just wish you'd NOT taken a shortcut (unless, of course, the shortcut DOES fall in the "comfy" zone... Steve

Sounds reasonable, but given my own age and remaining range of comfortable motion, that may prove an illusive goal.

So, nothing wrong with mounting it on the ROPS? With no drilling tapping or welding on the ROPS itself, of course?
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control #56  
Sure. why not? If you decide later that you don't like it, you'd only be out a little time - and if you're as lucky as I am, your local farm supply or other hardware place might stock the exact size square U bolts you need to fit your rops tubes... Steve
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Well, finally got the deal done, taking a lot longer than hoped. Partly due to indecisiveness and learning about hydraulic fittings and such.

But, the quick connects fit, the valves work smoothly, the cylinders operate properly and fit, nothing leaks. Even found a "sorta easy" way to patch in the return to tank line, without cutting any metal.

I wish the hoses had a little less "rats nest" look to it, but, they gotta be somewhere after all and they do not hang up or get tight through the range of motion.

Not gonna give it a work out yet, still waiting for the spiral hose protector coils to come in and then secure the hoses so they are not rubbing or dragging, probably with velcro straps.

Thanks for all the tips along the way.

joe a.
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control #58  
Well, finally got the deal done, taking a lot longer than hoped. Partly due to indecisiveness and learning about hydraulic fittings and such.

But, the quick connects fit, the valves work smoothly, the cylinders operate properly and fit, nothing leaks. Even found a "sorta easy" way to patch in the return to tank line, without cutting any metal.

I wish the hoses had a little less "rats nest" look to it, but, they gotta be somewhere after all and they do not hang up or get tight through the range of motion.

Not gonna give it a work out yet, still waiting for the spiral hose protector coils to come in and then secure the hoses so they are not rubbing or dragging, probably with velcro straps.

Thanks for all the tips along the way.

joe a.
Sorry but we need a picture.
 
   / 3pt hitch Hydraulic top link and control
  • Thread Starter
#60  
Here's a few.
1 - Return to Tank T at FEL. ORB into FEL. JIC straight is original Tank Return, Right Angle JIC is return from valve.
2 - T to allow future return to Tank for thumb conversion. Upper line is from new valve, lower to FEL T
3 - Top and side link cylinders and hoses
4 - Bulkhead and Quick Connects , 4 for cylinders one for Supply from Tractor. PB hose free connects back to 3PT.
5 - Top view of spool valve and bulkhead connections.
6 - Rear looking view of spool valve and handles how I bent them.
 

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