3pt hitch question

   / 3pt hitch question #11  
Do you intend on running another brace from the vertical upright to the second horizontal brace?
 
   / 3pt hitch question #12  
man, that sure doesnt look like it would weigh 1200# , but if you weighed it i believe you. the picture must just make it look small
 
   / 3pt hitch question
  • Thread Starter
#13  
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   / 3pt hitch question #15  
Looks like an excellent design/build! Good job with it.

I like how you made it fairly long compared to most you see, and I like the 7' width. Also, you will be really happy that it weighs as much as it does. Way to go IH!
 
   / 3pt hitch question #16  
It's difficult to say "yes it will be enough" or "yes it won't" without that picture.

Alone, 1/2x3" bar stock will probably hold tens of thousands of pounds in tensile.

The way you have it set up however, you put a lot of stress on the welds as well as the square tube. And you are contending not only with the weight of the implement on the links, but the pulling/hammering force of using it especially on the lower lift arms that actually do the majority of the pulling.

I would absolutely brace that tube steel that connects the top link with something behind it, via triangulation. If those flat bars on the bottom break as well, run angle iron not only from the front bar but continuously to the one behind it and connect the pins off those. The clevis is a good design for capturing the lower links in the strongest way possible.

Take a look at how commercial hitches are built, obviously the box blade takes more force than your 1200 lb land plane when full, but it's also 800 lbs lighter. (1200 lbs seems QUITE heavy for that but maybe the photo makes it look smaller than it is.)

256070_400x400.jpg
 
   / 3pt hitch question #17  
Scratch that, I created my post before you posted the pic behind the tractor showing the correct bracing/etc :)
 
   / 3pt hitch question #19  
............... run angle iron not only from the front bar but continuously to the one behind it and connect the pins off those. The clevis is a good design for capturing the lower links in the strongest way possible.

I agree with Ishiboo, despite his #17. I use angle iron - 60x60x6mm for top and bottom links on anything I build. Cat I (3/4" top link hole and 7/8" bottoms) so smaller holes and pins than yours and I have not had any problems, not even "ovalling". A double angle iron - spaced to fit either top or bottom link arms in between, with the bottom links ones running back the full length of the frame, and the top link pair well-braced. I made a stone rake, 10ft wide at the front narrowing to 18" at the back, so pulling a lot of weight; harrows/ land leveller combination (not quite the same as a plane); 2-leg subsoiler and various lighter implements. I usually build the frame over the top of the lower link angle irons, but with something like your land plane you would need to weld them on top of the planing metal.
 
 
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