3rd SCV 3320

[Duckklr69]

I want to run a hydraulic top link or say hydraulic chute on a rear mount snow blower can anyone tell me if this is the kit I need THIRD CONTROL VALVE OPEN STATION LVB25506, if so what comes with the kit and is it very difficult to install?

 

[MikeyB]

Yes, that is the kit. I installed one on my 3320 last summer. It comes with the position control lever, hardlines, fittings, rear bracket, and one half of the quick connects. The kit was not that hard to install, just time consuming. You have to remove the seat, seat shroud, right rear wheel, and I believe the right rear fender as well to get to the selector control valve. A new slot must also be cut in the right rockshaft control area for the new position control lever. I cut this using a dremel tool ( the outline is already on the bottom of the shroud). I thought the hardest part was feeding the hard steel lines through the existing ones and getting them to line up. I really didn't want to remove the existing lines for fear of leaks but finally did have to loosen them to get the new lines in. And I worried about that for nothing since I had no leaks after finishing the job. Just be sure your selector control valve is a 3 service. Meaning if you look at the scv that the loader joystick goes into you have a third service with fittings blocking it off that you will plumb the lines too. There is a note on the kit:

A) FACTORY INSTALLED TRIPLE SCV ONLY. REFERENCE DTAC SOLUTION 78478


Hope this helps and isn't too confusing. Really it wasn't very hard just time consuming. As I recall the instructions included were pretty good.

Mike
I think all 3320's have triple scv but I am not sure.

 

[thenline]

Hi,
Sorry for working off an old thread if I should have instead started a new one; I'm new to posting. I am contemplating purchasing and installing an LVB25506 on my 2005 3320 in order to run my grapple (and/or in the future, a tilt cylinder on my 3-pt), but was hoping that before I made the purchase, someone might be able to tell me if the instructions for installing the LVB25506 kit are somewhere on the internet? I wanted to look through them quickly to make sure it wasn't above my skill-level, that I had all the equipment needed on hand to do the install, and that the instructions didn't reference a service manual for the process (as I don't have one).
Thanks so much in advance for any help,
Tom

 

[kennyd]

Welcome Tom,
New threads are usually better than resurrecting 6 year old ones, but...
I don't have the instructions, but the actual valve is already on your tractor, the kit just adds the lever, hardware, hardlines, and connectors to use it. If you have average wrench turning skills you'll have no trouble.

 

[thenline]

Thanks so much for the quick response, kennyd, I appreciate it.
I've been on some other forums in the past and have seen members all but crucify new members for starting threads regarding topics that were already referenced in other threads, so I figured I better play it safe by replying to this one, since my subject matter was similar. Sorry for not starting a new thread, but again, I do thank you for the response.
I should have no issues then by the sounds of it. I just didn't want to be blind-sided by the instructions if they referenced certain steps be followed that were only documented by a JD service manual.
Tom

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN

Ditto on kennyd's response.

And you should not need the service tech manual (but it is worth the money IMO ) as things that could be a mystery get ironed out more quickly.

Likely remove the right wheel, the fender, and then wrench on the fittings is about the extent of it (at least was on my 4300). Fairly straight forward and fun-to-do project.

 

[thenline]

Thanks, beenthere, I appreciate it.
Tom

 

[kennyd]

The tech manual is hard to beat, the info it contains is worth much more that the price they charge for it, especially the CD version.

 

[nhemmer]

Did you complete your install? Do you think it would be possible without removing the tire? Handling a ballast filled tire is the only thing that keeps me from taking on this install myself on my 3720 with cab.

 

[thenline]

I did complete the install, yes. I can't remember all the bolts/hardware there were to get the fender assembly off, as it was a few months since I've done it, but I'm thinking that it would be extremely difficult to do w/out pulling the tire off. Again, though, that's not to say it couldn't be done, I just don't think that it would be too easy if it could done.

 

[beenthere]

nhemmer
If you have R-4's, then handling the tire is no major problem... they will stand up. Just need to be careful that if they do go, there is a place for them to fall without you under it.
This pic when I added the 3rd SCV and the tire was loaded.

 

[nhemmer]

Thanks for the input. I'm more comfortable about pulling the wheel since as pointed out the R4s will stand on their own BUT I don't think I will need to. With the cab tractor there is a hole already present for the cables to enter the cab console to attach the lever and the cab has much greater clearance around the axle making access to the SCV much easier. Provided I can tighten the hydraulic lines with a crows foot from below I have no reason to remove the wheel. I will try to post pics when I do the install. My machine is a 2007 and it takes the same kit as the open station. I understand the 2011 and newer use a electrohydraulic control better suited for a grapple, etc. but overkill for my Clemens Radius under vine weeder. Simpler is better in my case. thanks again for the quick response to my questions

 

[nhemmer]

Thanks for the input. I'm more comfortable about pulling the wheel since as pointed out the R4s will stand on their own BUT I don't think I will need to. With the cab tractor there is a hole already present for the cables to enter the cab console to attach the lever and the cab has much greater clearance around the axle making access to the SCV much easier. Provided I can tighten the hydraulic lines with a crows foot from below I have no reason to remove the wheel. I will try to post pics when I do the install. My machine is a 2007 and it takes the same kit as the open station. I understand the 2011 and newer use a electrohydraulic control better suited for a grapple, etc. but overkill for my Clemens Radius under vine weeder. Simpler is better in my case. thanks again for the quick response to my questions

Well, it is done. After receiving the wrong kit (it is not the same as open station) the dealer ordered the right kit for early serial number 3rd SCV cab tractors which is nearly 1/3 the price of the newer electo-hydraulic 3rd SCV. I completed the install in 1 day WITHOUT removing the wheel. To do this I had to disconnect all lines to all three spools of the SCV but it worked. I'm not sure that is needed when the wheel is removed but I suspect it is. The new hard lines run behind the existing and fishing hard pipe through is a challenge no matter what. It was easy enough with the right tools and some patience. Altogether about 5 hrs of work to install the kit.

Attaching the Clemens radius weeder was another 2 hrs but with practice this will be a 30 minute task. On the first try I had to fab some brackets and do some wiring for the override solenoid which is a 1 time task.

One last question. I thought the benefit of the SCV was the pressure is balanced between the 3 spools if actuated simultaneously but with the 3rd valve wide open I get no function on the other valves. If I tweak it back then I can get function in the other spools. I have a separate flow control for the Clemens so it can work if I tweak the 3rd SCV lever and the flow control. This doesn't seem right - any thoughts???