3rd SCV install questions

[JB4310]

Kenny, can you elaborate on the limiter washers? could they go between the hose end and the male QD coupler? seems like there is some free space in there. Is it this type of cylinder that it moves so fast, what if I get a top link, are they designed to move slower? I hope so!

Thanks again, John.

 

[kennyd]

JB, it's not the cylinders, It's just a lot of flow going into the relatively small cylinder that makes it move very fast.

Do you have a TSC nearby? They sell some restrictors apparently-although my local TCS never has what I need in stock when I need it though.

I could not find the washer type I mentioned online to reference, but others have found then locally at hydraulic shops and tractor dealers. I have even heard of peaple making thier own with 1/16th" hole in them.

I did find THESE online for a good price(not sure on the shipping though). I may order some myself for my new grapple.

Also, if you do a search on "restrictor" there is some good reading.

 

[kennyd]

I also found some HERE, and they have 90* ones also-just search for "restrictor"

 

[JB4310]

I see there's alot of restrictor options out there, does that in anyway affect the pump? or will it just sound like it's straining a little.
any suggestions for a hyd toplink, 2" or 3"?
What do you think of my plow contraption, be honest, it's just an inexpensive experiment. I know from reading some of the other posts that you are no fan of loader mounted plows, neither am I, though maybe for different reasons.
I know you have a front frame mounted plow which is obviously the best way to go if you want to get serious about plowing, I had a chance to buy a factory frame mounted super HD plow/dozer for my model, the only problem was I would lose the loader and the posts though I could have modded a shared attachment with the posts.
I need my loader for material handling in even in the winter, and even with the shared attachment it would not have been an easy swap out, that's why the guy was selling it cheap, said it was to much trouble to change over.
Here's a pic of a 6' 6" loader mounted plow at the dealer that was badly damaged hitting something solid, I just wonder how the loader fared. they said they would take $500. for it, made by Horst, looks heavier than all the others I've seen. cylinder is bent as well as the square frame tube.

 

[kennyd]

I see there's alot of restrictor options out there, does that in anyway affect the pump? or will it just sound like it's straining a little.
any suggestions for a hyd toplink, 2" or 3"?

It won't affect the pump because its not flowing contsantly-you might here a little strain, but no worries.
A 2" TL is fine for your machine-do a search for "CCM" for good ones.

What do you think of my plow contraption, be honest, it's just an inexpensive experiment. I know from reading some of the other posts that you are no fan of loader mounted plows, neither am I, though maybe for different reasons.

Your plow looks like a good thought, but I think you will find it very clumsy to use. Looking backwards is no fun! I also do not think it will be enough ballast for you to properly use your big light duty materials bucket effectively. It also sticks out the back pretty far so maneuvering may be a problem. You may also have a problem with the 3PH raising up.

***You said be honest***

I know you have a front frame mounted plow which is obviously the best way to go if you want to get serious about plowing, I had a chance to buy a factory frame mounted super HD plow/dozer for my model, the only problem was I would lose the loader and the posts though I could have modded a shared attachment with the posts.
I need my loader for material handling in even in the winter, and even with the shared attachment it would not have been an easy swap out, that's why the guy was selling it cheap, said it was to much trouble to change over.

I understand the changeover issue all to well...Maybe it's time for a second tractor?

Here's a pic of a 6' 6" loader mounted plow at the dealer that was badly damaged hitting something solid, I just wonder how the loader fared. they said they would take $500. for it, made by Horst, looks heavier than all the others I've seen. cylinder is bent as well as the square frame tube.

Yeah, I would like to see the loader frame also! He must have really slammed into something HARD to bend it like that! He can and probably will keep it for $500.

 

[J_J]

JB4310, A needle valve would let you use full flow for some attachents, and you could turn the knob to regulate the flow for other attachments. They are not cheap.

 

[PILOON]

Shucks, just a plain rod threaded male/female NPT with about a 3/32 hole drilled in the center would do the trick.
(Well short pipe and nipple)
As short as you can hold in order to tap the threads.
By deffinition that is about all a restrictor is.
If too slow enlargen the hole.

 

[JB4310]

Your plow looks like a good thought, but I think you will find it very clumsy to use. Looking backwards is no fun! I also do not think it will be enough ballast for you to properly use your big light duty materials bucket effectively. It also sticks out the back pretty far so maneuvering may be a problem. You may also have a problem with the 3PH raising up.

***You said be honest***

I didn't mean that honest!!!

Just kidding, I have all the same concerns and "I'm working on it"
but I'll tell you from fooling around with it in the yard again on Friday I'm pleasantly surprised, some of those worries have not panned out, haven't figured how to get my neck to do that Owl thing but I already had that problem with my existing back blade, I'm thinking big mirror.
The second picture is a hint at the next contraption I'm working on this week end.


J_J and PILOON,
Thanks for the tips, not sure if I'm gonna do anything yet to restrict the flow or just be careful with the lever and feather it, but man if I go a little past feather that thing will slam from one side to the other, especialy at higher operating rpms.

 

[pat32rf]

I don't think that it would be any more awkward than using a back blade to push the snow and it would definitely save time with the power angle. Just watch that you don't try to slam into any large drifts (with stumps in them) or you could bend the 3pth arms (like my son did).
I'd like to build something that would swing over to the side to "wing" the drifts back beyond where I can run the wheels.....