$4000 to spend on lawn/light duty garden tractor

[Fordlords]

The same relativity applies now among lines that applied 25 years ago. If a Cub Cadet 1000 series were the equal in performance, life, and capabilities to a Cub Cadet 3000 series, they would be priced the same. It is not my intent to be telling anyone they have to go out and buy an expensive tractor. If a lighter duty less expensive LT fits the bill for the job at hand than it is fine. For the person questioning what is best for mowing 2.5 acres every 10-14 days, I'm saying their money might be better invested in something beyond a box store special.

-Fordlords-

 

[oakford4]

Well,

At some point, I need to just make my own decision. This forum's been very entertaining and educational, but there often tends to be an opinion that completely counters the other. Maybe I'll ask a more specific question to help:

Will a Deere LA150 or Cub 1554 (about $3000 out the door) or Cub 2550 (about $3500 out the door) work well for periodically hauling, say, 500# loads of dirt or firewood in addition to the frequent cutting of 2 1/2 acres? In other words, will these two units hold up to that kind of load without greatly reducing their life? The Deere & Cub can save me about $1300, will the 2550 Cub can save me about $800.

Thoughts?

 

[oakford4]

Sorry, I was comparing those above to the 'deal' on the Simplicity Conquest for $4250.

 

[DmansPadge]

Well said.

I just Just took a look at the 3100 on cubs web site.
List price on it there is $4899 so $4100 for a 3100 is a steal.
800 bucks is a darn good rake off

And I believe that $4899 is without a deck, right? I would get the 3100 no doubt.

 

[oakford4]

Not sure if most or all of you are missing my point. Please forget what's the best 'deal'....Why should I pay more for features (e.g., shaft drive, cast iron transmission, etc.) if I DON'T need them. I am simply asking what I should choose based on my needs (as described in detail earlier). It may, in fact, be that I do need a Cub 3100 or 2554, or a Simplicity Conquest 20/50 or a Deere X340. Or, I may be fine (and best directed) to go with a Husqvarna GTH26K54T. I need help in direction. Again, my budget is $4000 or so,..but if I can/should spend less, I certainly would not object. Please advise on your opinion

Thanks.

 

[DmansPadge]

Not sure if most or all of you are missing my point. Please forget what's the best 'deal'....Why should I pay more for features (e.g., shaft drive, cast iron transmission, etc.) if I DON'T need them. I am simply asking what I should choose based on my needs (as described in detail earlier). It may, in fact, be that I do need a Cub 3100 or 2554, or a Simplicity Conquest 20/50 or a Deere X340. Or, I may be fine (and best directed) to go with a Husqvarna GTH26K54T. I need help in direction. Again, my budget is $4000 or so,..but if I can/should spend less, I certainly would not object. Please advise on your opinion

Thanks.

Any of the mentioned machines would do the job. If you buy better it'll last longer, hold up better, etc. I wouldn't want to buy a "throw away" unit for what you want to do. I think the 3000 series Cub is not only a great deal... but also a good match for your needs.

 

[VA_Joe]

Well,

At some point, I need to just make my own decision. This forum's been very entertaining and educational, but there often tends to be an opinion that completely counters the other. Maybe I'll ask a more specific question to help:

Will a Deere LA150 or Cub 1554 (about $3000 out the door) or Cub 2550 (about $3500 out the door) work well for periodically hauling, say, 500# loads of dirt or firewood in addition to the frequent cutting of 2 1/2 acres? In other words, will these two units hold up to that kind of load without greatly reducing their life? The Deere & Cub can save me about $1300, will the 2550 Cub can save me about $800.

Thoughts?

I would go for the cub 25xx series. Although the lighter duty units will work - the durability of the 25xx will serve you much better over time. My experience with the $1000 - $2000 units is that the corners cut often result in a less expensive HST that underperforms on travel speed and ability to pull uphill.

Although the "bumpy" ground mentioned in a prior note will shake and rattle whaterever you buy - I think the 25xx will survive the punishment much better. For the 500 pound loads - either can pull on level ground. However, the heavier duty HST will give you better up hill performance (and speed). Last year - I was looking at both the 1554 and 2544. I chose the 2544 because of the durability issue and the ability to pull my Hasty Vac tow-along up hill. Although my JD GT235 could also do this - my older troy-built could not (very slow). Considering it was a small price differential between the two (hardly noticeable if considered over 5-10 years) I went with the 2554 to make sure it would do what I needed it to do.

Just my two cents (add up everyone elses and you're a rich guy).

Joe

 

[oakford4]

Thanks for those last two comments as they were very helpful!

OK, let's say I've finally narrowed down my list to:

Cub GT2550 ($3500 out the door),
Cub GT2554 ($3900 out the door), or
Simplicity Conquest 22 HP with 50" deck (Briggs Vanguard)--$4250 out the door.

All three are garden tractors. The Cubs, of course, have shaft drive as it's unique feature, while the Simplicity has the slip differential. My property is only mildly sloping, but it can get muddy in areas due to a natural spring area that's always wet or at least damp. Does anyone have experience with the slip differential on the Simplicity Conquest? Also, based on my limited hauling needs, is the shaft drive very beneficial? Same with the cast iron transmission? Finally, which of the two (Cub's GT 2500 series and the Simplicity Conquest) is more solidly built?

Thanks.

 

[VA_Joe]

For me - the shaft drive on the 25xx was not an issue as it seems to be more of a marketing ploy. For the amount of horsepower we are talking about - I don't see much of an advantage between belt vs. shaft considering:

a. there are motorcylces with three to four times the horsepower running their rear wheels off belts

b. the shaft drive on the riding mowers is running only the hst - which probably isn't even designed to take the full engine HP in the first place (much of it is used for the mower - which is run via belt)

c. The belts these days are extremely durable (unlike days past) and don't deteriorate as quickly as the old ones did (e.g. new cars with 100,000 mile timing belt intervals).

d. So far the only belts that I've replaced have been the ones on the mower assembly (which all the mowers have) as sticks and other things (grass, leaves, etc.) that get stuck up there tend to eat them up. BTW - this comment is for the other mowers that I've had. I've only had the cub for six months and haven't needed to replace any belts (yet).

In short - although the shaft drive is a nice thing - I don't think it should be a deciding factor.

Two more cents.

Joe

 

[oakford4]

Thanks, Joe. Very helpful insight.

Anyone know much about the differential lock feature on the Simplicity Conquest? Will it noticably help getting me out of some possible muddy areas of my yard? What about the Briggs Vanguard? I hear this is time-tested commercial-grade engine? How does it stack up to the Kohler Command?