4110 Final Drive
- Thread starter David Berglund
- Start date
- Views: 23816
OP
David Berglund
Member
I agree 
Okej, so parts (gear and pinion axle) ordered from Green Farm Parts: John Deere Parts Online Discount Store for delivery to my friend in Philly, who will bring it to me when we meet on a tradeshow in Germany next wednesday.
A total of $527
If I had taken the easy way around and ordered this as Hako spare parts in Sweden, the total equvalent in USD would be $1304. That is just slightly less then I payed for the entire tractor. That's how bad it is with parts over here, so you can imagine that I happily went through some work in order to verify the fit.
Okej, so parts (gear and pinion axle) ordered from Green Farm Parts: John Deere Parts Online Discount Store for delivery to my friend in Philly, who will bring it to me when we meet on a tradeshow in Germany next wednesday.
A total of $527
If I had taken the easy way around and ordered this as Hako spare parts in Sweden, the total equvalent in USD would be $1304. That is just slightly less then I payed for the entire tractor. That's how bad it is with parts over here, so you can imagine that I happily went through some work in order to verify the fit.
OP
David Berglund
Member
OK, if you like, I will document it here
The plan is not to change at all. I'm going to weld it in and mill the surface flat again. I can only hope for a good result when it comes to welding, alumium can be tricky. But from the looks of it I think it is pretty weldable and with some extra care with the sealant I'm hoping to get it to work.
The plan is not to change at all. I'm going to weld it in and mill the surface flat again. I can only hope for a good result when it comes to welding, alumium can be tricky. But from the looks of it I think it is pretty weldable and with some extra care with the sealant I'm hoping to get it to work.
OP
David Berglund
Member
A bit more has happened.
To start with I've had delivery of the parts and it was indeed the right ones. Yay!
Also I've removed the right side final drive where there was also metal chips coming out of the drain plug. Not a very nice surprise. Here as well the bearing was busted but luckily there were no harm done to the gear and pinion.
So the plan now is to start with removing the differential which is hiding behind the shiny holder plate thats on one of the pichtures. Just need to fabricate some sort of puller tool to get it out. After thats gone I will get a good view into the gearcase where I can inspect all the gears close to where the debris has flown around and also clean the gear case thoroughly.
When this is done I will decide if I need to remove more for cleaning or if it is time for re-assembly.
To start with I've had delivery of the parts and it was indeed the right ones. Yay!
Also I've removed the right side final drive where there was also metal chips coming out of the drain plug. Not a very nice surprise. Here as well the bearing was busted but luckily there were no harm done to the gear and pinion.
So the plan now is to start with removing the differential which is hiding behind the shiny holder plate thats on one of the pichtures. Just need to fabricate some sort of puller tool to get it out. After thats gone I will get a good view into the gearcase where I can inspect all the gears close to where the debris has flown around and also clean the gear case thoroughly.
When this is done I will decide if I need to remove more for cleaning or if it is time for re-assembly.
Attachments
RG1
Platinum Member
I appreciate the update. Don't know who else is following this, but I am very interested. I just did the engine and hydro oil changes on my 4115 a few minutes ago. Everything looked good. Just added some ag tires today as well. I had them filled with Rim Guard just like the R4's I just took off.
Please keep me posted as you progress along with this.
Please keep me posted as you progress along with this.
Zebrafive
Super Member
Glad to see the parts were right and you were able to have a friend deliver them. Now you should be able to sub JD parts as needed. I enjoy the pictures and updates.
OP
David Berglund
Member
Thanks guys!
To you 41XX owners.
Are the lever for PTO (front/rear/both) suppose to be adjustable when motor is off? My lever is completely stuck and cannot be moved. Is this right or do I have another issue here?
To you 41XX owners.
Are the lever for PTO (front/rear/both) suppose to be adjustable when motor is off? My lever is completely stuck and cannot be moved. Is this right or do I have another issue here?
RG1
Platinum Member
I have owned a 4110, and now this 4115. Both can/could be moved/shifted with the engine off. before you get too worried though, try lubing all the ball joints for the pedals, joysticks etc, and specially the linkage for the PTO shifter, FWD shifter etc where they go into the side of the trans. I just did my spring maintenance and now all my stuff that was getting stiff after so much snow/wet conditions this winter are moving like new again.
OP
David Berglund
Member
The PTO-lever has its pivot joint bolted to the tranny housing and a from it there's a small linkage that goes to a small lever further forward on the tranny. This is where the actual "gear change" is done and inside it according to the parts list drawing there's a normal type of fork shifter gear mechanism. Such mechanisms could sometimes jam when mechanics are static just as a manual gear car can have some gears blocked when not running. So I'm hoping this is the case however I'm a bit worried there might be something more serious causing it. I will probably wait to address it until I have it running there's no way I will disassemble that much as to reach it at this state.
RG1
Platinum Member
I use JD Super Lube, and just spray it at the junction where any of the linkages pass through and into the tranny. Trust me, it gets in there pretty quickly and loosens things up.
It is possible that your shifter is in an "in between" position like you mentioned. With the tractor lifted up in the rear (and you really only need to have one tire mounted to do this), you can usually rotate the tire a small amount, and thus the tranny enough to make it easy to shift the lever.
It is possible that your shifter is in an "in between" position like you mentioned. With the tractor lifted up in the rear (and you really only need to have one tire mounted to do this), you can usually rotate the tire a small amount, and thus the tranny enough to make it easy to shift the lever.
OP
David Berglund
Member
I don't think that will do since the PTO is hard geared to the engine/main clutch whereas the wheels are behind the hydro.
However turning the rear PTO-shaft should do the trick if that's the case, so the idea is to try that next time I'm at it. Next thing Is lube and thereafter removing the cover in that area to investigate.
However turning the rear PTO-shaft should do the trick if that's the case, so the idea is to try that next time I'm at it. Next thing Is lube and thereafter removing the cover in that area to investigate.
RG1
Platinum Member
I should have been more clear.
I didn't mean the wheels would make the PTO shifter easier. I was just saying that when a range lever gets stiff to move, you can do that to the wheels to make it easy enough to move the lever. The same would go for the PTO lever, but the shaft would be what you need to move obviously.
I didn't mean the wheels would make the PTO shifter easier. I was just saying that when a range lever gets stiff to move, you can do that to the wheels to make it easy enough to move the lever. The same would go for the PTO lever, but the shaft would be what you need to move obviously.
OP
David Berglund
Member
Hi all!
I'ts been a while and basically other projects ended up taking all my time and I haven't made any progress in the past year. Up until a few weeks ago where I stumbled on an ad for a 410 loader including the bolt-on frame mounts and everything. To make such a find in Sweden is very unlikely and on top of it, it was only 80km from me so I had to have it. Payed equal to $2000 and I don't think I've seen anyone around on eBay cheaper so I'm very happy with that deal even if it was more than the actual tractor. It was in nice shape too.
As could be imagined this gave me quite a bit of motivation and I'm now pretty close to getting it up and running. The PTO shifter problem was just a matter of a jammed lever, the actual axle that goes into the tranny could be moved by hand no problem once disconnected from the lever.
Right now I've welded and milled the broken aluminum gear case. It was a pretty weldable material however I managed to get a pore in the sealant surface. Nothing the sealant won't take care of but still disturbing. Today I've sand blasted and painted the parts and with a full set of new bearings at hand I'm looking forward to assembly and tryouts this weekend. I'll probably continue with some restoration since I've got it apart but I'm really excited to get it operatioal.
Let's just hope there's no negative surprises.
I'ts been a while and basically other projects ended up taking all my time and I haven't made any progress in the past year. Up until a few weeks ago where I stumbled on an ad for a 410 loader including the bolt-on frame mounts and everything. To make such a find in Sweden is very unlikely and on top of it, it was only 80km from me so I had to have it. Payed equal to $2000 and I don't think I've seen anyone around on eBay cheaper so I'm very happy with that deal even if it was more than the actual tractor. It was in nice shape too.
As could be imagined this gave me quite a bit of motivation and I'm now pretty close to getting it up and running. The PTO shifter problem was just a matter of a jammed lever, the actual axle that goes into the tranny could be moved by hand no problem once disconnected from the lever.
Right now I've welded and milled the broken aluminum gear case. It was a pretty weldable material however I managed to get a pore in the sealant surface. Nothing the sealant won't take care of but still disturbing. Today I've sand blasted and painted the parts and with a full set of new bearings at hand I'm looking forward to assembly and tryouts this weekend. I'll probably continue with some restoration since I've got it apart but I'm really excited to get it operatioal.
Let's just hope there's no negative surprises.
OP
David Berglund
Member
Can anyone tell me what the unattached sender is for? Level or heat or what?
kennyd
Advertiser
Going by memory here...that's either the PTO (to light the PTO light on the dash) or Neutral switch (to keep it from starting in gear).
OP
David Berglund
Member
Ah.
Makes sense it should be some starter breaker since I found this under a few layers of tape on the connector. For some reason it has been jumped. Maby I will find out what's not as it should when I get it started. Should try to locate some schematics to be sure too.
Perhaps this thread should be moved somewhere else in the forums?
Forgot the pichure.
Makes sense it should be some starter breaker since I found this under a few layers of tape on the connector. For some reason it has been jumped. Maby I will find out what's not as it should when I get it started. Should try to locate some schematics to be sure too.
Perhaps this thread should be moved somewhere else in the forums?
Forgot the pichure.
kennyd
Advertiser
You cab click the small triangle in the lower left corner of you original post and ask a moderator to move it.
Here are some similar links:
