4110 owners - PAY ATTENTION !!

skipmarcy · Apr 15, 2005

I've had my 4110 for 3 years now, have 690 hours, and have been extremely happy with it up until about 2 weeks ago, when my problem hit me. My tractor would make a horrendous noise when trying to lift a loaded bucket which I found out was the flywheel rubbing the nosecone off the starter !! That was just the beginning of the damages though. What had happened was when they assembled the tractor they didn't use Loc-Tite on the bolts that hold the engine to the mainplate and 8 of the 13 bolts had loosened and snapped-off in the block and the other 5 were about to fall out - the tractor was about to come apart. There was no forewarning of this, either. I maintain my tractor well and there were no visible signs of the bolts coming out. I got all the bolts out and replaced them, but after reassembly I found I had a severe problem with with the clutch/front trans. and had to replace the pilot brg., release brg., clutch disc, pressure plate, input brgs. on the trans. and still have a problem !! I believe the syncro. assembly is also damaged in the linear trans. and will have to split it again and spend no telling how much more in parts. The only way to check these bolts is to split the tractor, or possibly to remove the starter and use a mirror & light but this won't let you see all of the bolts. 11 of the 13 bolts are behind the flywheel and you can't use loc washers because of clearance, so Loc-Tite is mandatory. My factory bolts had absolutely none on them. They did use Loc-Tite at several other locations, can't believe they let these bolts go. Of course I'm out of warranty for a year now, so it's all on me. Mahindra wanted way too much for parts so I searched and got most of it in aftermarket. Bearings were easy to find from numbers on the old bearings, just have to find a parts guy willing to cross-reference them, clutch parts were more elusive but found a reman. supplier in Iowa and also found that the clutch disc & pressure plate fit a Massey 1160 or 1165. I'm afraid I'll have to get the trans. parts from Mahindra, haven't checked into that yet. Otherwise, my tractor has been a good one.

KENB · Apr 15, 2005

Did you try to contact your dealer or Mahindra about this?? Maybe, just maybe, they might assist you in some way. I know some manufacturers will still assist in various ways even when the product is out of warranty. For example, Polaris paid for the parts on my Ranger when it was out of warranty, and I paid for the labor only on a recent steering box problem. It did save me some money. Heck, Toyota rebuilt the engine in my 1998 Camry with 103K miles FREE OF CHARGE.
You should be contacting Mahindra and your dealer regarding this problem. I will be checking my 4110 today. Thanks for the "heads up".

BobCurry · Apr 15, 2005

Skip,

Your post is both informative and at the right time for me. My wife and I were going to see a Mahindra 3510-4110 tomorrow and possibly put down a deposit. However, with your unfortunate problem, we will wait and see what the factory does in your case and follow this thread. Sounds like the "problem" started at the point of origin and, IMHO, should be taken care of by the manufacturer. What the factory does will sway my decision.

Good luck!

Bob /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Willman · Apr 15, 2005

WoW! Thats a new problem unheard of before.
Maybe we can get some dealer input on this and if they have seen this happen on tractors they sold.
Unfortunately for you, it could be an isolated insodent.

elad · Apr 15, 2005

I'm confused"
I thought 4110 was a John Deere model for a compact tractor. Is the same model number used by two different
manufacturers. I have a JD 4110 tractor setting in my garage
that I bought in july of 2004. This other brand is using the
same numbers? Where am I missing something?
Thanks for any information on my confusion.

JerryG · Apr 15, 2005

I would be very surprised if the manufacture will help any. And as far as I know, loctite is not used on the engine to transmission joint by an manufacture. A large, high pressure joint on any tractor that has been taken apart needs to have it bolts retightened or at least checked after a few hours of use, just like a lot here have found that they need to check their lug nuts. Having said all that, good luck with getting help on it.

DK35vince · Apr 15, 2005

( A large, high pressure joint on any tractor that has been taken apart needs to have it bolts retightened or at least checked after a few hours of use )

Jerry,
I don't believe ( could be wrong here) the problem loose bolts on this machine had ever been taken apart prior to coming loose.

Willman · Apr 16, 2005

Unlike cars & trucks you can tell a manufacturer from a model name, tractor companys may have same model numbers so you need to realize the manf. before the model number.
Model numbers on tractors are based on series and horsepower within a manf. lineup.
Yes it can be confusing, think of it as two sports teams, different players, same number on jerseys. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Keith_B · Apr 17, 2005

( Skip,

Your post is both informative and at the right time for me. My wife and I were going to see a Mahindra 3510-4110 tomorrow and possibly put down a deposit. However, with your unfortunate problem, we will wait and see what the factory does in your case and follow this thread. Sounds like the "problem" started at the point of origin and, IMHO, should be taken care of by the manufacturer. What the factory does will sway my decision.

Good luck!

Bob /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

I wouldn't make a purchase decision based upon a single incident. There are too many variables when looking at the causes of a problem like this.

BobCurry · Apr 17, 2005

Keith,

No problem here, just watching intently. My wife really likes the 3510 over every tractor I've looked at because of the ML112 loader strength for moving large haybales. She even gave me the okay to get the quick attach loader for a bale spike! We understand that every now and then a fluke manufacturing problem occurs. It can happen to any tractor out there.

Thanks,

Bob

Keith_B · Apr 18, 2005

( Keith,

No problem here, just watching intently. My wife really likes the 3510 over every tractor I've looked at because of the ML112 loader strength for moving large haybales. She even gave me the okay to get the quick attach loader for a bale spike! We understand that every now and then a fluke manufacturing problem occurs. It can happen to any tractor out there.

Thanks,

Bob

)

Bob, similar story here. I took my wife tractor shopping and she preferred the 4110 over anything else we have looked at.

Charlie_in_TX · Apr 19, 2005

Did you ever check to make sure they were tight? I know my owners manual says to check for loose fasteners every so many (100?) hrs. My dealer said to check everything at 10 and 50 hrs on top of what the manual say. Have you ever check them? My point being, can you blame the manufacture for a few screws coming loose 3 yrs and 700 hrs after it left the plant?

fish_wisperer · Apr 19, 2005

question,,,,,,,,,,, are you really supposed to check bolts between engine and transmission? how about piston rod bolts?
im sure we should'nt have to disassemble and rebuild any machine to check torque on bolts. if we do they need to reengineer.

KENB · Apr 19, 2005

I recall reading about checking loose "fasteners" ever so many (100?) hrs, but I thought it meant things like lynch pins, 3 point hitch fasteners and such, NOT ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS!!??!! No one expects there engine to fall off. Glad I don't have to check my F150 engine from falling off my truck every 100 hours. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

PBinWA · Apr 19, 2005

( Glad I don't have to check my F150 engine from falling off my truck every 100 hours.
)

You might want to if you are driving your F150 as hard as your tractor. It all depends on the use of the machine.

Harsh usage requires more maintenance. Common sense in my opinion.

Keith_B · Apr 19, 2005

( question,,,,,,,,,,, are you really supposed to check bolts between engine and transmission? how about piston rod bolts?
im sure we should'nt have to disassemble and rebuild any machine to check torque on bolts. if we do they need to reengineer. )

They should be torqued to specs and stay tight.

KENB · Apr 19, 2005

( ( Glad I don't have to check my F150 engine from falling off my truck every 100 hours.
)

You might want to if you are driving your F150 as hard as your tractor. It all depends on the use of the machine.

Harsh usage requires more maintenance. Common sense in my opinion. )

I bet I drive my F150 HARDER than I drive my 4110. My F150, 134,000 miles has been a workhorse. Driving 75mph hitting hard bumps/potholes is alot more jarring than any "pasture bump" at 3mph. Engine mouting bolts should not come loose or have to be retightened period, in my opinion. I've never heard of having to do that type of maintenance on a piece of machinery farm/off road/on road.

Charlie_in_TX · Apr 19, 2005

Open your eyes. 8 of the 13 bolts backed out. Those bolts are right were your feet are not inside the motor.

The original poster said PAY ATTENTION. I am saying the same thing. It it the manufactures fault for what happens 3 yrs and 700 yrs after the last time they saw it.

Are you saying the manufacture is responsible craddle to grave or the hole unit?

fish_wisperer · Apr 19, 2005

i agree with that, if an area is completly inaccessible like internal engine and transmission bolts you shouldn't have to retorque every 100 hours,, maybe head bolts one time after break in. i think it would be hard to get people to buy anything that required that much maintenance. im not a tractor mechanic but i do work on heavy aircraft.

Keith_B · Apr 19, 2005

If I'm not mistaken, based on the original posters description, these are not internal bolts, but external bolts. The tractor was binding when a load was lifted, which is indicative of the tractor almost being pulled into.