4200 rear axle seal

[Mighty Dodge]

My 4200 started leaking at the rear axle seal....getting bad now. Looked up parts diagram, looks like the axle needs to be pulled....holy crap. How involved is this repair?

Thanx

John

 

[dfkrug]

VERY involved. You have to remove the rear axle housing. You might
check to see if there is any twine or fishing line wrapped around the
axle causing the problem.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I replaced the rear axle seal and bearing on a JD 4400 we had. I'm going from memory here, but as I recall I had block the tractor up, remove the wheel, and some linkages. Then I was able to unbolt the ROPS and I think the fender had to come off as well. Then unbolted the axle housing and slid it off, supporting/rolling it back on a little transmission jack I have. Once I had the housing assy. on the bench there was a snap ring that had to come off a gear, then the remove the gear. Take the three bolts off the bearing retainer on the end of housing and slide the axle out. Then just replace the seal and/or bearing and reassemble. Cleaned everything up well and used RTV to reseal the axle housing to transmission. Torque everything to spec and put the tractor back together.

If you are mechanically inclined it's not that hard of a job. Took me about 2-3hrs IIRC.

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Don't have a tranny jack but I guess I could use a floor jack. Looks like it might come out without removing the fender. Now I just need to find the time and money to fix it.

Thanx for the replies

John

 

[Verticaltrx]

Don't have a tranny jack but I guess I could use a floor jack. Looks like it might come out without removing the fender. Now I just need to find the time and money to fix it.

Thanx for the replies

John

Floor jack will work fine, just be sure to balance the housing on it well so it doesn't tumble off. If it's just the seal leaking it shouldn't be that spendy, less than $20 for the seal IIRC, and a tube of good quality RTV.

 

[Mighty Dodge]

And I assume you have to drain the transmission as well?

 

[Verticaltrx]

And I assume you have to drain the transmission as well?

Correct, that takes several gallons of new hydraulic fluid.

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Thanx

I just changed the tranny fluid two years ago, took just about seven gallons to refill it.

 

[dfkrug]

I just changed the tranny fluid two years ago, took just about seven gallons to refill it.

About seven gals is correct. You will be able to see if anything is in
the bottom of your gearbox (PTO clutch and brake fragments).

The hardest part of removing my axle housings was getting the
brake levers off the shafts. I had to drill holes for pullers (both sides).
Yours may be easier.

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Ahh so the brake assy stays attached to the main housing?

Good to know.

 

[Egon]

Introduction

This site might answer a few questions on the JD 4200. [operators manual]

 

[nicholsamveteran]

I have a 4200 JD as well I have removed rops all 8 bolts and disconnected the brake linkage but I am having trouble removing the housing feels like it is getting hung up somewhere tho....if it not supported could that be the issue or could I be missing something else to remove....

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Which side are you removing?

 

[nicholsamveteran]

im replacing the right hand side I think the brake lever on the housing is where its getting hung up....I cant tell if its a star hex or square or is it a pin I need to drive out to remove the lever?

 

[dfkrug]

im replacing the right hand side I think the brake lever on the
housing is where its getting hung up....I cant tell if its a star hex or square or is it a pin I need to
drive out to remove the lever?

A steel roll pin holds the brake lever on.

 

[nicholsamveteran]

So just drive it out with a hammer and a punch?

 

[dfkrug]

So just drive it out with a hammer and a punch?

Yes. If you are lucky, the lever then comes off easily. In my case, noted above, not so much.

 

[dave255]

I realize this is an older thread, but I plan on replacing a leaky rear axle seal on a 4400 in the near future. Can someone tell me if I need a hydraulic press to remove the axle once I have the housing off the tractor? I just want to be prepared. Thanks in advance!

 

[beenthere]

There are tutorials on TBN (by the way :welcome: ) as well as I'd suggest getting the tech manual that covers your tractor model would be worth the investment. Torque values and removal procedures are outlined.

Can do one side at a time, although one other thread removed more than necessary, according to the tech manual.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/84836-4310-jd-rear-axle-seal.html

Also, the tech manual says (for right side):
Need to remove the parts in your way to get at the 8 cap screws holding the axle (final drive) housing to the transmission housing.
That would be the 3 pt hitch arm, wheel, brake spring, brake rod, park brake, ROPS bolts, and gently pry the final drive housing away.
Will need good blocking under the tractor and maybe a way to support the weight of the ROPS.

Might be a real good time to get the tech (service) manual if you don't have one already. Worth it as there are pics and detailed steps.

Here is a schematic from jdparts.com that may help you visualize the task... should be doable.
Items 12 and 13 are the cap screws that hold housing #6 to the tranny. That final drive weighs about 75 lbs according to the book so some support is advised when removing the 8 cap screws.

Here is schematic for 4200 right side.

 

[dave255]

Thanks for the reply. I actually did purchase the factory service manual(for a small fortune) a few years ago. This manual says the axle needs to be pressed out, however I've seen a few threads on here(including the one you linked to) that lead me to believe this is not necessary. This is what I am trying to clarify. I just want to have all tools necessary before I start the job...

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this!!