422 vaporlock

   / 422 vaporlock
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Those latest posts had some good (and funny) reading.

Tracdoc's post sounds like the best way to me and I'll start assembling the parts to do it all. I didn't even have time to start my PT this weekend, so I've done nothing that I'd planned yet. The heat shield stuff I've used before. The fuel filter and larger line are easy and cheap. The quick disconnect sounds like a GREAT idea, as removing the gas tank makes access to hydraulics and oil filters much easier.

AND I'll start shutting down at 1/2 throttle in the meantime.

Phil
 
   / 422 vaporlock #43  
<font color="red">The quick disconnect sounds like a GREAT idea, AND I'll start shutting down at 1/2 throttle in the meantime.

Phil </font>

Yup I'm gonna do the quick disconnect too, that sounds something like that sliced bread i keep hearing about. and while I'm at it change the fuel line and filter. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / 422 vaporlock #44  
If anyone has difficulty finding a quick disconnect, try your local motorcycle shop. They all carry 'em, so you can remove your gas tank to access the engine. The best ones seal off at both ends when disconnected-- no drips from the tank and no leak back from the carb...
 
   / 422 vaporlock
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Thanks, tracdoc. I had looked in Jeg's without finding any, and called my local [real] auto parts store, who suggested any marine or boat shop [but all of those I've seen are double hose connectors]. There's a motorcycle shop a couple blocks up the street, and now I know where to look. And I know him pretty good, so if it's not something he stocks, he'll get it for me.

(on edit) I just called him, the ones he stocks don't have the "non-leak" feature, but he said to stop by and he'd show me some that do that he can order.

Phil
 
   / 422 vaporlock #46  
I had apparent vapor lock problems on my Robin engined 425 last weekend. I replaced the fuel filter, moving it to under the tank, replaced the Tygon fuel line with regular 1/4" rubber hose, and slipped some 5/8" heater hose over that.

So far, no more problems. Of course, last weekend it was near 80 degrees, and today we've got snow flurries... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Gravy
 
   / 422 vaporlock #47  
Okay, I think I have tried many things and none have worked. I have been suffering the vapor lock blues on a 425 I think.

I have replaced the tygon tubing with std 1/4" hose, replaced fuel filter, and moved the filter closer to the tank. I have also routed hose so it is not touching hyd lines.

All that and tried to mow for about 25-30 minutes in 85' weather and the engine just stalls. I can usually re-start but can not put full load back on the engine until it cools down a bit.

This problem never occurs when it is cold start-up. It will always run for 25-30 minutes at full throttle with no problems. Once things get very warm it stalls.

One note of interest.... My machine only has 47.5 hours on it and at 25 hours I checked the oil level and found that it was just below the low mark on the stick. At that point I added almost a full quart. I checked it this morning cold, and it was just at the full mark. Not a bit over full. Just full. I have read many posts that warn that too high of engine oil level will cause pump problems... Any thoughts
 
   / 422 vaporlock #48  
I took the fuel pump apart on my 422 and found some oil behind the diaphram. That is on the engine suction side where the vacuum from the enginer is piped. I cleaned this out and the pump outlet pressure went from 1 to 2 psi. This was not difficult to do on the 422. I don't know the 425.

Bob Rip
 
   / 422 vaporlock #49  
Did you check to make sure that the elbow out of the fuel tank was not blocked in any way with the debris from the tank? I had persistent problems until I found some glue residue lodged in an out of the way location. Once it was cleared, things have worked fine.

Good luck.
 
   / 422 vaporlock #50  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sometimes when I have been working the machine very hard, I will let it run at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for several minutes while the cooler fan is running just to bring the temps down a bit before shutting off the unitl. I use the old fashioned way of sticking my hand over the cooler fan and feeling the airflow. You can tell the difference very well with your skin. Mowing seems to be the hardest chore as the thing is running full blast with quite a load. Some day I will put a thermometer in the outflow of the fan to see what the temps are. )</font>

Just keep in mind that hyd oil is only flowing through the cooler when the tram is underway. Check out the drawing PT gave us. If one was running the Power take off only and not moving (running the wheel motors) the cooler is of no assistance. Now correct me if I am wrong.
 

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