4300 gear range selection

   / 4300 gear range selection #1  

Bob_Trevithick

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2001
Messages
563
Location
Williamson, NY (near Rochester)
Tractor
JD 4300 MFWD
I have a 4300 SyncReverser, built in December of 2000, which I love except for one thing. The range lever is very tricky to get into the "B" range. Of course it would be the most commonly used range. :)

I'll drive to my friend's house around the corner, ready to plow his driveway, and then try to get into "B" range.. and it takes me sometimes up to a minute of messing around, hitting neutral, hearing little grinding sounds, etc. Finally it goes in.

I asked a good dealer, while he's checking over the machine from head to toe, to check this. In the meantime, do others experience this? Is there a trick to it, or could it be that mine really is adjusted incorrectly? It takes considerable force to move it.. but perhaps that's normal? I can easlily slam it to the "A" or "C" positions, but messing around in the middle seems hit and miss.

Thanks,
Bob
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #2  
Bob,
I have the same thing happens on my JD4400 hydrostat.There is nothing wrong with mine,it is just a little tricky to find the B range,but it is there./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #3  
Bob,
Like Hillbilly, I have the same situation on my 4400 HST. Just kind of figured it was SOP.

Hoss
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #4  
If you really mean you 'slam' it into A or C, then maybe something has been bent. I can get mine in all three, not having to 'slam' anything and without 'considerable force'. Maybe it is just a difference in descriptive wording. If yours is difficult to move, with no load on the transmission, then something must be wrong and apparently your dealer is checking it out. Good luck.
 
   / 4300 gear range selection
  • Thread Starter
#5  
<font color=blue>...I can get mine in all three, not having to 'slam' anything and without 'considerable force'. Maybe it is just a difference in descriptive wording.</font color=blue>

Yes, I probably overstated my case here. It is a "slam" only relative to the smoothness of all the other controls. It actually took more than gentle pressure, but a slight impact of the hand agaist the lever. The "considerable force" was again relative to the other controls. I spoke to the dealer today, who said that, in addition to it being adjusted correctly now, it would probably help if I hold down the clutch for a few seconds before moving it.. just to let everything stop spinning. Then just feel carefully for the detent.

I forgot to ask the dealer, but I assume things begin to work more smoothly as they get broken in a bit more? Shifting, in particular?

The machine will be back Monday. I miss it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif But at least now I'll know it's been set up properly and I can proceed to learn to use and care for it.
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #6  
My 4600 seems to be the same way. I have found to tap the reverse hydro pedal to relieve the pressure, and then it'll slide right in.
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #7  
Bob, I also own a 2000 JD 4300 . I have the same thing occur. Try putting the shuttle lever in neutral and with your foot off the clutch it should go into B range without a problem. Anyway it works for me. Jim in Idaho
 
   / 4300 gear range selection
  • Thread Starter
#8  
<font color=blue>...Try putting the shuttle lever in neutral and with your foot off the clutch it should go into B range without a problem.</font color=blue>

Hi Jim,

Now that is something I hadn't even thought of trying. I never move any of the shifter levers without my foot on the clutch. I'll get my baby back tomorrow afternoon, and will give it a shot. Thanks!

Bob
 
   / 4300 gear range selection #9  
Sorry, I thought you guys were talking hydro./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif
 
   / 4300 gear range selection
  • Thread Starter
#10  
<font color=blue>...Sorry, I thought you guys were talking hydro./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif</font color=blue>

No need to be sorry! Any suggestions or replies are appreciated. And yours did give me useful information.. that things work better if any strain on the drivetrain can be removed. Thanks.

As an aside, I considered HST, but for me the HST setup just doesn't work. It's my fault, not the HSTs. I just can't seem to get rid of decades of conditioning that says "In an emergency hit the brake pedal with the right foot." /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Case in point, on my old HST GT235 I was carefully pushing a big rolling drum up onto some 2x4s for winter parking. I would ease it back onto them, and when in the perfect position would just automatically move my foot quickly off the backup pedal and nail the forward pedal thinking it was a brake that would hold me in position. Of course instead I rocketed away forward and had to start over. And I did this twice in a row! /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif When it came to trading up to something many times more powerful and dangerous, I just said, nope, no way I'm going to take the chance. I know people love their HSTs, and I envy them the ability to adjust to this arrangement. If only there were some way they could design them so the brake pedals were where they are supposed to be (supposed by me /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) I would probably love HST. But my SyncReverser works very well for me, and I'm quite happy with it. So all is well. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bob
 

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