I'll see if I can get another pic up tommorrow. I think the distance is ok, but I just realized, their twisting. You would think with all the replacements, if this is the cause, the dealer would have noticed/addressed it, specially when I asked em about it. I dont know if you seen it, but I posted a few pics "a link" on some of my posts. The one about twisting, has a pic of the link themselves.
4300 repeatedly breaks turnbuckle,
- Thread starter iamgott
- Start date
- Views: 16264
Sprocket1
Bronze Member
I think I've seen most if not all the pics. De pics depict an unnatural position for lift arms. Do they stay that way with nothing on them?
Those pics were with it partially raised, relaxed they look more straight. Im gonna go get all new hardware, the one with the bolt recently fell apart so I stuck it in there to finish the job. It worked so good I was thinkin about leaving it. I still might, but I need to get the 2 small black washer "like" retainers and a new shoe "ate up"
Its kinda amazing, if I had not got on this forum and started whinning and stuff, I prob wouldn't have went out and stared at it. I really think the dealer should have been able to solve this, "his mechanic"
It was all your guys advise that got my 3 brain cells workin, lol
Im pretty sure I need to put spacers on the Box Blade
Its kinda amazing, if I had not got on this forum and started whinning and stuff, I prob wouldn't have went out and stared at it. I really think the dealer should have been able to solve this, "his mechanic"
It was all your guys advise that got my 3 brain cells workin, lol
Im pretty sure I need to put spacers on the Box Blade
Gary_in_Indiana
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Messages
- 3,373
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200 MFWD HST w/ JD 420 FEL w/ 61" loader bucket & toothbar & JD 37 BH w/ 12" bucket
In warranty or out, I STILL think you ought to get the area service rep to meet with you and your tractor at the dealership. Tell him you've tried everything the dealer has suggested to no avail and, if this is the result of something you're doing badly or improperly you'd like to know and maybe the rep can show you where the dealership could not.
Generally speaking, in my experience, the reps themselves do not want to meet the customer directly so as to avoid confrontational situations, etc., as I'm sure you can imagine. In this instance, however, I think if you pursue this in the manner I described, you should be able to get a meeting. If not, move up the Deere ladder as high as you need to arrange this meeting. If you can't meet with the area rep, find out if there's a regional rep, etc., that you might meet. I think doing this could be very worth your while.
As a last resort in trying to arrange the meeting (if all else has failed) try to explain that you don't have confidence in the dealer having properly explained your situation and concerns to Deere or explained the proper operation of the machine to you and you believe you need to meet with the rep so nothing will be 'lost in the translation,' so to speak.
This may not be a one or two phone call endeavor here. I called four to six times a day for a week to climb the ladder at Cummins Engines to resolve a problem. More recently I talked a friend through the same process with a warranty problem/dealer problem with Caterpillar. In each case, it was well worth the time and effort.
Good luck with this. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Generally speaking, in my experience, the reps themselves do not want to meet the customer directly so as to avoid confrontational situations, etc., as I'm sure you can imagine. In this instance, however, I think if you pursue this in the manner I described, you should be able to get a meeting. If not, move up the Deere ladder as high as you need to arrange this meeting. If you can't meet with the area rep, find out if there's a regional rep, etc., that you might meet. I think doing this could be very worth your while.
As a last resort in trying to arrange the meeting (if all else has failed) try to explain that you don't have confidence in the dealer having properly explained your situation and concerns to Deere or explained the proper operation of the machine to you and you believe you need to meet with the rep so nothing will be 'lost in the translation,' so to speak.
This may not be a one or two phone call endeavor here. I called four to six times a day for a week to climb the ladder at Cummins Engines to resolve a problem. More recently I talked a friend through the same process with a warranty problem/dealer problem with Caterpillar. In each case, it was well worth the time and effort.
Good luck with this. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
Gary_in_Indiana:
<font color="blue">This may not be a one or two phone call endeavor here. I called four to six times a day for a week to climb
the ladder at Cummins Engines to resolve a problem. </font>
I have found it is usually simpler to start at the top and work down. Find the CEO's name and call him. They usually have helpers to screen calls and can call "down" the food chain. The recipient of the message has more fear from the top than from you (or me). Also, the CEOs office knows where the "button" guy is to get it done. You will usually get better results, quicker.
JEH
<font color="blue">This may not be a one or two phone call endeavor here. I called four to six times a day for a week to climb
the ladder at Cummins Engines to resolve a problem. </font>
I have found it is usually simpler to start at the top and work down. Find the CEO's name and call him. They usually have helpers to screen calls and can call "down" the food chain. The recipient of the message has more fear from the top than from you (or me). Also, the CEOs office knows where the "button" guy is to get it done. You will usually get better results, quicker.
JEH
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
Chief:
<font color="blue">Another option would be to take a turn buckle to a good machine shop and have them fabricate a turn buckle out of a much stronger type of steel and if possble larger/reinforced diameter or see if it is possible to utilize a class III or a heavier/stronger built built turn buckle from a larger tractor model. Not sure if this is possible but may be worth lookin into. </font>
Yeah, you're right. But I suspect getting one from another tractor brand that would fit would be a lot cheaper. He says in a susequent post that he was told the JD turnbuckle was "cheap pot metal". May be, although the ones I looked at on the 4300 & 4310 Saturday didn't look that bad, but I didn't scrap it (wasn't my tractor). In any event, he has now mentioned that in the extreme up position there is some lateral sway. So, your point about that may very well be correct.
JEH
<font color="blue">Another option would be to take a turn buckle to a good machine shop and have them fabricate a turn buckle out of a much stronger type of steel and if possble larger/reinforced diameter or see if it is possible to utilize a class III or a heavier/stronger built built turn buckle from a larger tractor model. Not sure if this is possible but may be worth lookin into. </font>
Yeah, you're right. But I suspect getting one from another tractor brand that would fit would be a lot cheaper. He says in a susequent post that he was told the JD turnbuckle was "cheap pot metal". May be, although the ones I looked at on the 4300 & 4310 Saturday didn't look that bad, but I didn't scrap it (wasn't my tractor). In any event, he has now mentioned that in the extreme up position there is some lateral sway. So, your point about that may very well be correct.
JEH
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
iamgott:
<font color="blue">Oh, and I advise anyone to take the extended warranty, why you would think this is silly in my situation I cannot understand? You mean, ? I should have mercy on JD? or the dealer? I dont know what you mean by this statement. I may be stuck with this machine for awhile. I dont know if I can absorb the loss to upgrade at this point. So to me, the warranty would have been a wise investment.</font>
1) My point was that when you give someone your money, you are "voting" for their success. Your whole situation is a comedy of errors (yes, iamgott, I fully realize that it doesn't seem that way to you-quite understandably). And yes, things always look differently from inside looking out, than from outside looking in. Whether you realize it or not, my suggestion (and several others) to dump the thing and move on is the best thing to do. Not only have you apparently lost money by buying this JD, but it has obviously frustrated you, no doubt affected your health (even if nothing more than raising your blood pressure), etc. Life is short enough without diliberately aggravating yourself dealing with people who are causing you problems.
2) If you absolutely must keep this thing (the JD), buy yourself a set of shop manuals and find an independent (or another dealer - NH, KUB or even JD) mechanic-good ones do exist. Parenthetically, BEFORE I bought my current tractor I spent time with, and interviewed, the service manager at the dealer-in fact, I probably spent as much time wandering around their service department as with the salesman. Don't buy anything from JD (unless you absolutely HAVE to, such as parts). Don't "vote" for the success of people who have obviously harmed you. Buying their extended warranty may, or may not, cost them money. But it will certainly cause you frustration and loss. If you must keep it, learn to take care of it yourself-you can certainly get some help on this site.
3) Why would you continue putting on turnbuckles that kept braking when you were told <font color="blue">they were cheap pot metal</font>? Take the advice and buy a comparable NH or KUB turnbuckle, or, have one made. If the pressure relief valve has been properly adjusted, it isn't that. There have been some other posts regarding details on the geometry (and implement) issue. Follow through on that. You should certainly be able to get it worked out, sooner or later. After all, its not brain surgery.
Good luck.
JEH
<font color="blue">Oh, and I advise anyone to take the extended warranty, why you would think this is silly in my situation I cannot understand? You mean, ? I should have mercy on JD? or the dealer? I dont know what you mean by this statement. I may be stuck with this machine for awhile. I dont know if I can absorb the loss to upgrade at this point. So to me, the warranty would have been a wise investment.</font>
1) My point was that when you give someone your money, you are "voting" for their success. Your whole situation is a comedy of errors (yes, iamgott, I fully realize that it doesn't seem that way to you-quite understandably). And yes, things always look differently from inside looking out, than from outside looking in. Whether you realize it or not, my suggestion (and several others) to dump the thing and move on is the best thing to do. Not only have you apparently lost money by buying this JD, but it has obviously frustrated you, no doubt affected your health (even if nothing more than raising your blood pressure), etc. Life is short enough without diliberately aggravating yourself dealing with people who are causing you problems.
2) If you absolutely must keep this thing (the JD), buy yourself a set of shop manuals and find an independent (or another dealer - NH, KUB or even JD) mechanic-good ones do exist. Parenthetically, BEFORE I bought my current tractor I spent time with, and interviewed, the service manager at the dealer-in fact, I probably spent as much time wandering around their service department as with the salesman. Don't buy anything from JD (unless you absolutely HAVE to, such as parts). Don't "vote" for the success of people who have obviously harmed you. Buying their extended warranty may, or may not, cost them money. But it will certainly cause you frustration and loss. If you must keep it, learn to take care of it yourself-you can certainly get some help on this site.
3) Why would you continue putting on turnbuckles that kept braking when you were told <font color="blue">they were cheap pot metal</font>? Take the advice and buy a comparable NH or KUB turnbuckle, or, have one made. If the pressure relief valve has been properly adjusted, it isn't that. There have been some other posts regarding details on the geometry (and implement) issue. Follow through on that. You should certainly be able to get it worked out, sooner or later. After all, its not brain surgery.
Good luck.
JEH
Chief
Gold Member
Check to make sure the knuckle heads at the dealer did not forget to install the stop links to the turn buckles (John Deere Part # M90337) If one of is these are missing; it could cause some problems. There should be a total of 4; 2 on each side installed.
_RaT_
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,813
- Location
- Peoples Republic of Northern CA.
- Tractor
- Kioti 3510-SE HST
Silly question, but after looking at the pictures of the axle housing, the new vs the old, it appears as though they are not made of cast iron. I only mention it beasue of the detail of the casting. Perhaps they are casting cast iron differently today. On second thought with things like the sways attaching to it, it has to be made of steel, I couldn't see aluminum holding up. Rat...
