4310 Rear PTO problems

[jd110]

I would check the wiring under the tractor for any disconnected plugs. I believe the solenoids for the pto are under the right foot rest area toward the rear.

 

[Tom4310]

I never thought of that. I will check it in the morning.

Thanks

 

[RollTideRam]

I don't know anything about 4310's but my former 2510 had mid and rear pto. I had a lever to select from mid, rear or both. My 3320 only has a rear pto so I don't have a choice. Just something I thought when I saw your question. JC

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Where you able to get this figured out? I am having the same problem now?

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well, and update on my problem. It is not electrical. I tested everything except for actually removing the solenoid from the tractor and all worked out like it should. So looks like I will be calling the dealer tomorrow in the AM and see if they have the service manual in stock, if not, I will be ordering one tomorrow. I will take some pictures of the guts when I get things apart. If someone wants to give me the next thing to check, feel free to post what and how.

 

[mfreund]

I was looking through the tech manual for something for you to look at and I think if it is not electrical then you have expensive problems. How did you determine the electrial was not the problem?

You need to have 12v at the 574b yellow wire at the rear PTO solenoid. Continuity to ground on 010d black. Then you could have a bad solenoid. If solenoid is good then I would agree with you.

If electrical checks out then you have low hydraulic pressure, bad seal in actuating piston or worn disks in pto clutch.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Thanks for looking. That is what I was afraid of. I think it is going to be the clutch because it did not hear a pop or anything like that. This all started when I hit a rotten stump when I was mowing. Yes, I do have a slip clutch on the PTO shaft, but apparently something hit just right to cause my problem. I have ordered the technical manual, and am awaiting the arrival before I start taking things apart.
I was able to determine it was not electrical for the following reasons. I have 12 volts at both the PTO and MFWD solenoids. The PTO Solenoid has the correct resistance as well. The seat switch is working correctly, as well as with the on off switch. At this point I hope it is as simple as a broken shaft, because the clutch looks like a pain. Oh well, we will see.... Thanks again for looking.

Clinton

 

[dfkrug]

At this point I hope it is as simple as a broken shaft, because the clutch looks like a pain.

Since the 4310 is only an incremental update to the 4300, I think yours uses
the same kind of PTO clutch and brake that my 4300 uses. My tractor
engages the PTO with a mechanical lever, instead of any solenoid, however.

The 4x00 clutches were a weak point and many failed. Mine is apart
presently, but will soon go back together. My sump had many clutch disc
fragments in it.

Your clutch disc basket may have failed....access to it will not require
splitting the tractor. It can be fully accessed thru the rear PTO cover
and the rockshaft housing on top.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Thanks for the heads up. This is what someone else posted on another form. I wonder what sleeve he is referring to.


"I got my tractor back. The problem was hydraulic fluid getting to the PTO clutch. There is a sleeve that the PTO shaft rotates in that slipped enough so the fluid could not flow thru the ports. The mechanic commented that he had never seen such a thing and it took him a while to find it. You were right, the fix was pricey."

 

[mfreund]

Thanks for the heads up. This is what someone else posted on another form. I wonder what sleeve he is referring to.


"I got my tractor back. The problem was hydraulic fluid getting to the PTO clutch. There is a sleeve that the PTO shaft rotates in that slipped enough so the fluid could not flow thru the ports. The mechanic commented that he had never seen such a thing and it took him a while to find it. You were right, the fix was pricey."

I think he is talking about a bushing.I looked at the parts catalog and there are bearings on the pto output shaft and the idler shaft. Here is a diagram of the PTO clutch. Could be #5??
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt


It sounds like you did a great job diagnosing the electrial portion of the PTO!!

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well, I received my manual today in the mail. It doesn't look to bad. The only thing I am really dreading is draining the 6.8 gallons of hydraulic fluid.

On a positive note, looks like I will only have to remove the rear cover to get to everything. And only take the clutch / brake assembly apart halfway, assuming that is the problem.

 

[dfkrug]

Well, I received my manual today in the mail. It doesn't look to bad. The only thing I am really dreading is draining the 6.8 gallons of hydraulic fluid.

On a positive note, looks like I will only have to remove the rear cover to get to everything. And only take the clutch / brake assembly apart halfway, assuming that is the problem.

Use the opportunity to clean your hyd suction screen. It may also give you
a clue as to what has broken.

I was able to get the PTO brake out the PTO hatch, but to disconnect the
PTO shifter, I had to get access from the top (rockshaft hatch). I needed
to do that to get the 9-stage PTO clutch out. Since yours uses a solenoid
to shift, maybe you can get the clutch out without messing with the
rockshaft housing?

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Since yours uses a solenoid
to shift, maybe you can get the clutch out without messing with the
rockshaft housing?

That is probably the reason.. I will have to look for the suction screen as well. Thanks for the tips...

 

[dfkrug]

I will have to look for the suction screen as well.

It is behind the plug in this photo (arrow). I would remove the rear magnetic
plug, too.

Having been in there, I would like to see how the PTO is different on the
4310, vs my 4300.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Having been in there, I would like to see how the PTO is different on the
4310, vs my 4300.

I will be sure to take some pictures of it apart. I might start on it this weekend.

 

[RogerH]

Before you open the tractor up, you might want to check out a couple easy items first. I see where you have checked the electrical to the solenoid, but didn't remove the solenoid. I saw a case once where the solenoid was plugged with metal chips. Cleaned out the chips and the PTO was back in operations. I seem to recall that their are some test ports on the side of the solenoid block - your manual should show those if my memory is correct. If you don't have a pressure gage, it still might be worth opening the PTO pressure check port up and seeing if you get any flow when the PTO is turned on.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Before you open the tractor up, you might want to check out a couple easy items first. I see where you have checked the electrical to the solenoid, but didn't remove the solenoid. I saw a case once where the solenoid was plugged with metal chips. Cleaned out the chips and the PTO was back in operations. I seem to recall that their are some test ports on the side of the solenoid block - your manual should show those if my memory is correct. If you don't have a pressure gage, it still might be worth opening the PTO pressure check port up and seeing if you get any flow when the PTO is turned on.

Well as suggested, I went to check the PTO Hydraulic pressure at the solenoid block. I purchased a gauge, and then removed the plug on the test port, only to find a weird thread. I looked for adapters at Tractor Supply and Home Depot, but they did not have anything that would come close to fitting it. Does anyone know the correct thread size for these ports? If I have time tomorrow, I am going to stop by a different place to see what they have.

Thanks

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well as suggested, I went to check the PTO Hydraulic pressure at the solenoid block. I purchased a gauge, and then removed the plug on the test port, only to find a weird thread. I looked for adapters at Tractor Supply and Home Depot, but they did not have anything that would come close to fitting it. Does anyone know the correct thread size for these ports? If I have time tomorrow, I am going to stop by a different place to see what they have.

Thanks

In case anyone is wondering, it is a M12 x 1.5 thread.....

 

[mfreund]

You beat me to it I was going to suggest it may be metric!!