4310 won't go, engine and hydr OK.
- Thread starter ChrisNJ
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TMcD_in_MI
Gold Member
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )</font>
Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Tom
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )</font>
Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Tom
TMcD_in_MI
Gold Member
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )</font>
Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Tom
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( odd but maybe important is the valve test code "short-long-long-long" in the calibration procedure is exactly the same as the 'pedels pressed together' code. confused yet, I am! )</font>
Chris, I don't know that this will help you any, but according to the chart in my 4310 shop manual, the fault code (9) for both pedals pressed is long-short-short-short, the exact opposite of fault code 10: forward or reverse coil error. I get code 10 sometimes when I am using my loader, but it resets when I shut the tractor off, unlike yours. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Tom
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?
maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?
maybe i read it wrong! i hope so, cause after all the checking i've done, i'm leaning toward the f-r coil error as the culprit. the wires go into the trans area. i'm hoping i can get to them to complete the book test (have to actually touch them with a probe) by removing the trans cover?? they do check out doing the ohm test though. also, are the f-r coils connected to the 'f-r propertioning valves'? sounds like it doesn't it? looks like very complicated valves and again hoping i can get to them?
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.
yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.
yes, it was code 10, *--- , i can get to the valve under the trans cover. i removed the coil easily and it checks out ok. haven't taken the valve out though. it is $550 for the valve and $200 for the coil so i don't want to buy it on a hunch. how does the computer know that there is a problem if the coil is OK? even if the valve is broken or stuck, i don't see how the coil can 'transmit' it's position back to the puter? i'm gonna have to wait (1-2 weeks) for the dealer to see it, maybe his diagnostic tools are they way to go. dealer said he's never seen a valve failure, thinks i could be pleasantly supirsed that their tools find somehting stupid/easy. in the meantime i might attempt to remove the valve to see if there is anything obvious. i wish there was an 'all reset' on the puter.
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.
Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.
Re: 4310 won\'t go, engine and hydr OK.
Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.
Problem solved!!! friend came over and hooked up a fancy e-machine, said coil is testing good, still could be valve itself though, but doesn't make sense cause it can't 'talk' back to computer. said we should try re-calibrating again. he read procedure and asked me all the questions and when we came to 'motion match switch must be off' i said i don't know, cause my motion match switch is different than the book, i only have one that has a fast and slow, i don;t have the one upper left that has a lock symbol and max symbol. i assumed (the problem) that mine didn't have an off, so i had left it in the upper or decel faster position. he thought that the lower or slower decel postion might be off cuase it's not 'making' the tractor slow faster. we tried it in the lower position for the re-cal this time. this time it wnet through all as before but this time at the end THE CODE WENT AWAY after the last test. yahooooo. tractor now works properly. soooooo we are guessing on what cuased the problem in the first place and the ony thing we can come to is the rear proportional valve coil wire (purple) was stretched enough to break it momentarily but the first thing i did when i saw it was move it away from the suspect break arm and i may have re-completed the circuit. then when i tried to re-cal i had the motion switch in the wrong place and just could could complet the re-cal which then shut the whole system down. if it happens again, we will go right to the suspect wire. advice: we all should get under our tractor now and then and check that the wires are all out of harms way, my tractor has 200 hrs on it but maybe going over all the trees and brush that i do moved/stretched a wire enough to cause this whole saga.
