4500Z won’t start

[WoodChuckDad]

My wife was using the Ventrac with tuff cut Mower. She had just gotten started and wanted move something so turned it off , got off and then when she got back on, it wouldn’t start.
No click, no nothing. When I turn the key, the dash lights come on. I dont hear the steady rapid clicking of the fuel pump. I dont hear it turn over or a click of a solenoid. Voltage says 14.4 or 14.5

I put a meter on the battery and got 14.6. I put the meter on the starter. Red to red, black to the white cable that is attatched to the starter and it reads 14.5 when in the “on” or run position. Does anyone have any ideas? I pulled fuses and they look good.

 

[seville009]

I’d try a different battery.

 

[plowhog]

Check the seat switch.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

That sounds like a switch of some sort. I don't know anything about Ventracs specifically, so I don't know what all is switched, but I would check all the easy stuff first. PTO switch, e-brake, neutral, bounce on the seat a few times and fold it up and back a few times. I've stumped myself more than once by not realizing I left the PTO on or something like that.

 

[MountainBuck]

Pop the hood up and look at the TCM - Tractor Control Module.

The red LEDs will tell you what safety is preventing the starting.

If you have further problems tell us what model you have?

 

[prs]

I believe the OP stated it to be a "Z". The advice to check the module is correct and then there are the 2 fuse boxes. The PTO switch and seat switch are two possible fail circuits.

 

[prestond]

PTO still on?

 

[WoodChuckDad]

The PTO was not on. I checked the reset switch a couple of times that did not work. I checked the computer module and when I turned the key it indicated that the starter light was coming on so it was picking up the fact that I was turning the key. I checked voltage to the starter and it had a constant voltage of 12.6. I pulled the other wire and put the probe in it and when I turn the key nothing happened. It turned out to be the return to neutral switch where you have the ability to put the lever down to auto so that it always returns to neutral when you let go of the control stick or you can put it down so that it continues to Coast forward. Because we live on mountain land and there’s nothing but hills there I have it on auto because when I let go of the stick I wanted to come to the stop. There is a little lever switch tucked inside the front panel

 

[WoodChuckDad]

That panel is down by your shins and knees. I took that panel off the entire area was completely filled with dirt and dust and mowing debris and so much of it was in there that there was junk wedged behind the lever of the switch so that the switch could not be actuator that is the same switch that you would activate when you pull back the parking brake which is required in order to be able to start the mower. When I cleaned all of that out I was able to start it up as normal and go hit the field.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

This is the switch.

 

[seville009]

Glad you found/posted the solution.

Curious why your battery voltage readings are so high though - 12.6v should be the max, I would assume. Doesn’t really matter, I guess.

 

[prs]

I, and I bet some others here, had forgotten all about that auto-stop feature. Although I also live in very steep terrain, I do not use that feature. I will take a look "in thee" next service. Glad you are back in the saddle!

prs

 

[MountainBuck]

Thanks for reporting back the solution.

I'd like to ask a followup question about the switch.

You say it is the same switch the hand brake actuates.

Does this mean the "hand brake" led did not register as engaged at the TCU?

I'm trying to figure out how you decided to look in that panel.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Glad you found/posted the solution.

Curious why your battery voltage readings are so high though - 12.6v should be the max, I would assume. Doesn’t really matter, I guess.

Thanks. I just edited that. I was using speech to text while commuting this morning.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Thanks for reporting back the solution.

I'd like to ask a followup question about the switch.

You say it is the same switch the hand brake actuates.

Does this mean the "hand brake" led did not register as engaged at the TCU?

I'm trying to figure out how you decided to look in that panel.

The LED lit up when pulled. If you look at the way it is connected that return to neutral lever is attached to a spring that is also attached to the brake lever. I thought to check because I also posted on a facebook group called “I want a Ventrac someday, and one of the guys on there messaged me his phone number. He told me the spring lever goes bad sometimes and he has started wiring around it. Mine wasn’t bad, but was completely clogged up with crap. I dug it out by hand and then blew everything out with a Radiator genie.

 

[edmoor]

My wife was using the Ventrac with tuff cut Mower. She had just gotten started and wanted move something so turned it off , got off and then when she got back on, it wouldn’t start.
No click, no nothing. When I turn the key, the dash lights come on. I dont hear the steady rapid clicking of the fuel pump. I dont hear it turn over or a click of a solenoid. Voltage says 14.4 or 14.5

I put a meter on the battery and got 14.6. I put the meter on the starter. Red to red, black to the white cable that is attatched to the starter and it reads 14.5 when in the “on” or run position. Does anyone have any ideas? I pulled fuses and they look good.

Turn the mower off..put in neutral

 

[prs]

DANG! I think I know of a panel that I will remove for inspection tomorrow!

prs

 

[prs]

I did remove that panel and there was some dusty grime there, but not like the OP's impaction.

However, I thought while in there, I would check the switch setting. I wiped the area clean and used electronic clener to clean the switch and its mounting plate and bolts. The switch function is effected by the adjustment of neutral centering adjustment and that centering adjustment can be afftected by the park brake adjustment. So I also cleaned all those areas and adjusted the park brake to spec. Then I placed the Ventrac with all tires up off of the floor and did the centering inspection and found the original setting was still correct.

So, onto that little neutral switch; it was a PIA to adjust and mine was tighter (0.3mm) than spec (0.8mm to 1.6mm). The adjustment specs are given in tenths of milimeters and the distance between the measurments sites is close to 8.5 centimeters -- so we are talking frog's hairs here. I finally lucked-out and managed to get the switch set to near center of spec (1.1mm). If if you do this, I had the best success by just barely snugging the front switch plate mounting bolt, leaving the rear one a tad bit loose while the measured gap for the switch was on the "too wide" side, then gently tapped the mounting plate forward with a drift punch and small drifting hammer. I did the two measurments with a digital caliper and, having no helper to move the SDLA lever, I used a wood block and door framing wedge to shim that lever forward until the switch opened and to hold it steady there. I do not think a helper could hold it steady enough anyway.

prs