4WD and loader work

   / 4WD and loader work #51  
I only use it when I need it, also I try not to do tight turns when I'm in 4wd.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #52  
In all my life, everything from my little Kubota to a full size backhoe has never been OUT of 4WD and I have never wore front tires or broke anything.

Now mind you I'm not running 4WD on dry asphalt.
 
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   / 4WD and loader work #53  
your going to learn people have no idea what they are talking about, gear grinding is clear as can be, do you hear it? prolly not, its generally a open differential, there is a reason they have lockers. if your not hearing noise, your not doing damage. i use 4x4 constantly and was slipping non stop today dealing with a flood.

do you know how much my wheels slip while plowing?
I am with this guy. I use 4x4 almost all the time for 12 years. No problems yet. The reason they put 4WD on compact tractors is they are so light weight you can't do anything in 2WD.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #54  
I read in the manual for my LX2610 that it's fine to work in 4WD doing loader work, which I have been doing. I watched a video with Tractor Time with Tim and one of the comments was that he should not being doing loader work in 4WD as it's gear on gear drive and its grinding gears when one of the front wheels spins and the other doesn't.

I just want to make sure that I'm not doing anything wrong.


Edit:
I should have been more clear, TTWT was doing similar work as I was, a commenter, not Tim, said that.
If you hear gears grinding you have Expensive Damage already. Take it to the Dealer and get it repaired. Never use 4WD unless you Need to. Just wear and tear on pricey parts.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #55  
I keep the 1999 Kubota L3710 in 2wd unless I'm losing traction with the rear tires. After using it for 20 years on the same property for the same tasks it instinctive now. For example, scooping up a bucket of 3/4 crush and heading down the steep driveway, better have it in FWA if you don't want to slide down the hill with the rears locked up. Plowing snow, better have it in FWA. Tilling the garden, FWA or it won't turn in the deep lose soil. The easiest way to shift it in and out of FWA is to lift the front wheel off the ground with the bucket. My rears are loaded btw.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #56  
I read in the manual for my LX2610 that it's fine to work in 4WD doing loader work, which I have been doing. I watched a video with Tractor Time with Tim and one of the comments was that he should not being doing loader work in 4WD as it's gear on gear drive and its grinding gears when one of the front wheels spins and the other doesn't.

I just want to make sure that I'm not doing anything wrong.


Edit:
I should have been more clear, TTWT was doing similar work as I was, a commenter, not Tim, said that.
Use four wheel drive when your rear wheels spin doing what ever you are doing. Only use two wheel drive when traveling at above normal working speeds or when using a tractor that has only two wheel drive. Workmaster 50 made in 2015. Bought new in 2016. It has been in four wheel drive 90 percent of the time since purchased. Put it in two wheel drive just ever so offen. With loader, if you spit on the ground it will spin rear wheels backing up a slight incline in two wheel drive.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #57  
I should have been more clear, TTWT was doing similar work as I was, a commenter, not Tim, said that.

To be clear, it's safe to be in 4WD and be scooping dirt?
You can safely use 4wd anytime you are in conditions that will allow for slippage (not to mean tires must be slipping) as the front and rear tires turn at different rates of speed (normal operation when front and rear tires are different sizes). You should not use 4wd when on solid surfaces—concrete, asphalt or extremely hard packed soils.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #58  
I live on 80 acres. I use 4WD when I need it. OTHERWISE - I'm always in 2WD. I've never needed 4WD when doing grapple or bucket work. Winter snow plowing or muddy areas - sometimes yes. Replacing driveline components or gears is a very expensive venture. I've never had problems with my tractors - doing it the way I do.

My thought - do not force the tires to slip just because you are in 4WD. Use 4WD to provide added traction and get you out of a "sticky situation". Field observation/anticipation/common sense will help your drive line system last a whole lot longer.
 
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   / 4WD and loader work #59  
4wd should always be engaged for loader work, but don‘t engage it on pavement unless your moving snow. Never use the foot pedal that locks the rear, until you’re stuck. It’s your last resort to get out of a bad situation.
 
   / 4WD and loader work #60  
The dealer had told me that they use 4WD for all loader work. I moved a mount of soil over the weekend on un even ground which is why one of the wheels had spun, plus it was pretty wet. I'm confused as to why the manual shows what it does below for 4WD.


View attachment 798496
This page says using 4wd is "effective" when doing loader work, and while in pavement (increased tire wear). The point made about damage is by forcing the 4x4 lever into position rather than a smooth action by lining up the gears by stepping forward or backwards on the pedal.

I generally use 4x4 when loading on soil and avoid 4x4 on pavement, unless it's wet and slippery, to save my tires. When loading, I get a very full bucket in 4x4, i find I get a smaller load in the bucket and the rear wheels tend to slip when not in 4x4 and I have a backhoe but not loaded tires.
 

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