I mow about 20 miles of trails. That does not include food plot work. Most is on private property (several land owners) and several miles of trail on federal and state lands that I have been grated permission to donate time/machine for hunter walker access that a lake association has taken partial management of..
My advice is to not have an exhaust stack for trail work and if there is a ROPS, then you have the option to fold it which you should unless your forests are different than mine. I have come close to serious injury by snagging overhead limbs or hangers with the ROPS and it isn't fun.
I have ran geared and HST machines on trails. Both worked well for me. The key to getting a lot of work done efficiently with a tractor is to have the trails already driven by an ATV and using a saw clean the path, then jump on the tractor. I know that isn't always possible but I get to know the trails so well I often times use a finishing mower to cut them. On unfamiliar territory I would use the bush hog of course...
One of my favorite tractors for trails that are not requiring much backing is a D17 if conditions are dry enough. It's a pretty low profile unit. It has enough power and with the power director I can slow down or go faster without clutching (H-L). The utility diesels I had Massey and IH did great too. But those are gone and I have a cab unit now so will not be in the woods as much with that..
Key criteria for me on a hunting/ Rec. property application is: Open station, low profile, tuck under exhaust, 4WD for wet conditions, I would say minimum of 30HP for food plot work, HST is nice but like I said, do the chore work first by foot or ATV so you don't need to be up and down off the operators platform for every sweeper, snag, and tree trunk laying across.
Many great tractors and colors to pick from