4x4 Question

[neverenough]

If you use a loader for anything regardless of the application and not use your 4 wheel drive is just foolish. The moment you put wt into the bucket or on forks you pivot over the front axle and take the load off the rears and if your front axle is free wheeling your in trouble.

I have to respond to this post, becouse it is down right scarry. If you pick up a load with your loader, and it makes the rear of the tractor lose traction, you are in one of the most dangerous positions you can put a tractor in. The rear of the tractor MUST be properly ballast, whether it's a 2wd or MFWD tractor. IF the rear is properly ballast, the front axle being locked in is of no concern. Granted, digging with the tractor locked in will aid in traction and allow for better "bite" when digging in hard soil and slippery conditions, but if you are relying on the front axle for control when loaded, your tractor is improperly set up for loader work. We have been using the same 2wd tractor for loader work since 1971. We take it in the sloppiest, softest, slipperiest, conditions in the spring, hauling 1500lb bales to feed the cows. When we use it to pick up dirt, or push on a stump, the wheels do spin, this is where MFWD would help. Regardless, the tractor is properly ballast, and traction is not much of an issue. MFWD does NOT mean you can replace ballast with a driving front axle, no if's, and's, or but's about it. It does not matter if you have 2wd, MFWD, 4 wd, or reversed, like a fork lift, the rear of a tractor must NEVER loose traction (meaning become lite and/or come off the ground) while hauling with a loader.

 

[Soundguy]

The 4X4 in a 1999 and new GM pickup and SUV's have an optional system (may be standard now) computer controled mode called Auto-something. I can not remember how it is labled right know, mine is a 2500HD which did not offer it.

My GMC yukon had 'touch' 2x4 and 4x4 and auto. in auto.. it 'suposedly' stays in 2 unless you lose traction.

On a ford explorer at work, there is a 'traction control' feature.. which looks to me like it uses the emergency brake / ABS system to xfer power thru the drivetrain from a slipping wheel.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[RobJ]

I have to respond to this post, becouse it is down right scarry. If you pick up a load with your loader, and it makes the rear of the tractor lose traction, you are in one of the most dangerous positions you can put a tractor in. The rear of the tractor MUST be properly ballast, whether it's a 2wd or MFWD tractor. IF the rear is properly ballast, the front axle being locked in is of no concern. Granted, digging with the tractor locked in will aid in traction and allow for better "bite" when digging in hard soil and slippery conditions, but if you are relying on the front axle for control when loaded, your tractor is improperly set up for loader work. We have been using the same 2wd tractor for loader work since 1971. We take it in the sloppiest, softest, slipperiest, conditions in the spring, hauling 1500lb bales to feed the cows. When we use it to pick up dirt, or push on a stump, the wheels do spin, this is where MFWD would help. Regardless, the tractor is properly ballast, and traction is not much of an issue. MFWD does NOT mean you can replace ballast with a driving front axle, no if's, and's, or but's about it. It does not matter if you have 2wd, MFWD, 4 wd, or reversed, like a fork lift, the rear of a tractor must NEVER loose traction (meaning become lite and/or come off the ground) while hauling with a loader.

Another food for thought, so you have it loaded and the rear wheels are lightly on the ground and you want to go easy down a hill, so you hit the brakes which stop all 4, but since all the weight is on the front the only thing between the brakes and wheels is a little front driveshaft. They have been known to twist.

 

[whodat90]

Another food for thought, so you have it loaded and the rear wheels are lightly on the ground and you want to go easy down a hill, so you hit the brakes which stop all 4, but since all the weight is on the front the only thing between the brakes and wheels is a little front driveshaft. They have been known to twist.

What happens in a 2wd without even that little driveshaft? Do any of the cuts and subcuts have front brakes?

 

[Soundguy]

You use ballast in the rear, and you keep the bucket low to the ground.. very low.. incase you have to ground it.

( I know of very few units that have front braking.. most are hyd independent drive type units, or coupled 4wd.. I've seen a few rare antiques with hyd front brakes.. very rare.. and were either low # conversions.. or owner conversions.... )

Soundguy

 

[Timber]

I have to respond to this post, becouse it is down right scarry. If you pick up a load with your loader, and it makes the rear of the tractor lose traction, you are in one of the most dangerous positions you can put a tractor in. The rear of the tractor MUST be properly ballast, whether it's a 2wd or MFWD tractor. IF the rear is properly ballast, the front axle being locked in is of no concern. Granted, digging with the tractor locked in will aid in traction and allow for better "bite" when digging in hard soil and slippery conditions, but if you are relying on the front axle for control when loaded, your tractor is improperly set up for loader work. We have been using the same 2wd tractor for loader work since 1971. We take it in the sloppiest, softest, slipperiest, conditions in the spring, hauling 1500lb bales to feed the cows. When we use it to pick up dirt, or push on a stump, the wheels do spin, this is where MFWD would help. Regardless, the tractor is properly ballast, and traction is not much of an issue. MFWD does NOT mean you can replace ballast with a driving front axle, no if's, and's, or but's about it. It does not matter if you have 2wd, MFWD, 4 wd, or reversed, like a fork lift, the rear of a tractor must NEVER loose traction (meaning become lite and/or come off the ground) while hauling with a loader.

You are absolutely right I wouldn't disagree with that assessment at all. I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors but you don't have the 4 wheel drive option in a 2 wheel drive, if you did you would use it. You can’t change the laws of physics if you add wt to one end you will lighten the other. Even if you add counter wt why would you not use your 4 wheel drive if you had it? If you have been in the farming industry for any length of time how many tractor rollover stories have you herd. In a perfect world with a perfectly balanced tractor it only takes a hole you didn't see or a piece of soft ground or a poor grade to upset your equipment

 

[whodat90]

You use ballast in the rear, and you keep the bucket low to the ground.. very low.. incase you have to ground it.

( I know of very few units that have front braking.. most are hyd independent drive type units, or coupled 4wd.. I've seen a few rare antiques with hyd front brakes.. very rare.. and were either low # conversions.. or owner conversions.... )

Soundguy

Yeah, I know you should stack the deck in your favor but still... Even if you have the counterweight, and even if you only have the bucket 6" above the ground, the rear tires only have to bounce off the ground a little bit to lose the traction and braking. I have a tiller that I hang off the back of my tractor, well within the weight capacity of the 3pt hitch. I have 110lbs of weight on the front of my tractor. 90% of the time it's just fine. Every now and then, however, if I'm going up a hill and hit a bump the front end comes up. I could add more weight to the front, but you reach a point of diminishing returns. My point is that in this particular circumstance, any loss of rear traction equates to total loss of drive and braking force. If it got bad enough to twist a front driveshaft, you were going to have a bad day regardless of whether or not it's 4wd.

 

[neverenough]

You are absolutely right I wouldn't disagree with that assessment at all. I grew up on 2 wheel drive tractors but you don't have the 4 wheel drive option in a 2 wheel drive, if you did you would use it. You can’t change the laws of physics if you add wt to one end you will lighten the other. Even if you add counter wt why would you not use your 4 wheel drive if you had it? If you have been in the farming industry for any length of time how many tractor rollover stories have you herd. In a perfect world with a perfectly balanced tractor it only takes a hole you didn't see or a piece of soft ground or a poor grade to upset your equipment

Tractor accidents are operator error and/or lack of knowledge. MFWD isn't designed to be some magical invention that allows your tractor to be transformed into a "super tractor". MFWD tractors are not going to leap holes in a single bound. MFWD tractors are not going to float over soft ground. MFWD tractors will still roll over, that's why they have ROPS. MFWD tractors will get stuck if taken beyond the limits of their traction/flotation. MFWD tractors will still become dangerous if over worked and used to, or beyond, it's limit's. MFWD or not, steep hills should still be descended, slowly, in reverse, with the load as low as possible while using a loader. MFWD is a nice addition for some uses, but it isn't much more than an aid.

 

[dirtworksequip]

OH NO!!!!! That snowball is going to get so big now, I don't think I can even push it in 4 wheel drive!

 

[dieselsmoke1]

MFWD is a nice addition for some uses, but it isn't much more than an aid.

Among other pieces, I've used an FEL on a MF135 and my 2810HST, similar weigh tractors (MF plus 300 lbs.). Operations that are marginal on the 135, such as driving down a bank or trying to back uphill with a load in the FEL are handled substantially easier with the 2810. Work which is marginal for the 2810, such as wrestling stumps up and down slopes yesterday (thanks to Ernesto), the 135 simply would not be able to handle.

I expect the front wheels were providing 50% (or more) of the traction during this hairy manuver, much more than "aid". This is an extreme example. The more challenging the terrain and load, the more FWD is going to help.

All this probably doesn't mean squat if the work is move dirt, hay etc. on flat ground. And it's just my opinion.