50-hour service and engine oil grade

Wheeldog · Aug 11, 2001

I went to buy the engine oil for the 50-hour service on my B2410 today. I stopped at one farm supply store and two auto parts stores and neither one had the right grade oil that my manual calls for. The manual calls out 10W30 or 10W40 for the total range of operating temperatures, but the only conventional diesel-rated oil that I could find was 15W40. Has anyone else run into this? It seems like the manual may be a little outdated, even though the B2410 is a relatively new model - it calls for Class 'CC' or 'CD', and I think the current rating for diesel oil is 'CH'

I expect that the 15W v. 10W at low temps. is probably not a big deal, but I hate to stray from whats in the manual right from the start. I did find a full-synthetic oil that was 10W30 and rated for diesel engine use, but that brings up the whole question of break-in and the question of how soon can I switch to a synthetic oil. I only have 40 hours on the tractor as of right now.

Anybody care to set me straight about oil/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif or just tell me if you ran into the same question? I don't want to start a war about synthetic v. conventional oils again.

Rob

Bird · Aug 12, 2001

Rob, I think it simply boils down to the fact that Kubota is behind on updating manuals. Like you said, the CC/CD rating is now obsolete. And the 15W-40 is the right grade to use.

Bird

albamadave · Aug 12, 2001

I just did the 50 hour service on my BX 2200 and had the same dilema. Based on experiences and advice form other threads on the board, I went with Rotella 15W40. My local W Mart carried three or four brands for diesel, all 15W40.

Dave

Wheeldog · Aug 12, 2001

Bird, Dave

Thanks for the advice, 15W40 it is.

Rob

GlueGuy · Aug 12, 2001

I just had the dealer out to do the 50 hour service on Lucy. The neighbor was ready for his too, so we split the travel time fee.

He used 15W-40 (in fact, it had a New Holland label on it /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif). From what I've read about oils (in general), it's better to have a narrower API grade (e.g 15W40) versus a wider API grade (e.g 10W40). The long hydrocarbon chains added to the oil to make it variable-viscosity break down over time/heat.

BTW-He changed all the filters and engine oil, but explained to me that it wasn't cost-effective to swap the hydro fluid at the 50 hour mark. He said that as long as the color/smell is normal, it shouldn't have to be changed until at least 200 hours. He also went on to explain that the only source of contamination is the breather tube, so he did check for water contamination, but said it's not likely to happen when the tractor is not stored outdoors.

The GlueGuy

TWINKLE_TOES · Aug 12, 2001

GlueGuy,

He said that as long as the color/smell is normal, it shouldn't have to be changed until at least 200 hours. 

The dealer mechanic recommmend not performing the transmission oil maintenance for the 50 hr service? I think he was lazy, or wanted to go fishing.

Al

Anonymous Poster · Aug 12, 2001

...He said that as long as the color/smell is normal, it shouldn't have to be changed until at least 200 hours...

Bill,

It sounds like you have a common sense mechanic. Even though some of the newer manuals may state otherwise...

I'm a gear guy... not hydro and mostly never changed the hydraulic fluid on a new tractor until around 600-800 hours.

We've always checked it for smell/color/contamination but not changed it, unless it needed it... {which has been never}

Some of the dealer's seem to instill a "fear factor" that you must change this hydraulic fluid @ 50 hours or else... warranty/tractor problems... at upwards of $20. gallon times "X" amount of gallons, in my opinion is insane.

I think common sense needs to be placed back into this equation of ownership...

Wheeldog · Aug 12, 2001

Glueguy,

I hadn't heard that about a narrower API grade being better, that's interesting. Thanks for another 15W-40 vote too.

I'm a little surprised that your dealer skipped the hydro fluid change and just changed the filters. I've already bought the fluid and filters so I plan on doing it all - he's probably right about the fluid being OK but I'd just as soon pay the $$ for the fluid to follow the manual. Knowing me, I'd probably spend the next 250 tractor hours second-guessing myself about not changing it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Rob

Anonymous Poster · Aug 12, 2001

...He changed all the filters and engine oil, but explained to me that it wasn't cost-effective to swap the hydro fluid at the 50 hour mark...

I think you've got a very honest and real mechanic...

Key words.... not cost effective... but he did check otherwise...

Don't you think, it would be to the mechanic's pocketbook advantage to do all that extra labor and sell all that extra hydraulic fluid...

Instead he chose the common sense approach...

Bravo...

Bird · Aug 12, 2001

I changed mine at 50 hours, partly to be sure the warranty couldn't be denied if I had a problem, and partly because I wanted to check for metal filings in the strainers and knew I'd lose a lot of fluid that way. However, my 2 year warranty expires today/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif so I might not be in a big hurry to change it next time./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird