50-hour service and engine oil grade

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Ernie,

I don't disagree Ernie, but if those of us that service our own tractors don't really have this luxury. I think we can exercise common sense only after the warranty expires. If my hydro pukes at 150 hours I think I would have a problem if I skipped the 50 hour hydro change.

<font color=blue>Don't you think, it would be to the mechanic's pocketbook advantage to do all that extra labor and sell all that extra hydraulic fluid...</font color=blue>

Nope, I think the dealer has a pocketbook advantage. I think the mechanic wanted to go fishing. If the dealer does this for GlueGuy how can he not do it for everyone?
I don't think the dealer or Kubota will endorse this common sense approach.

Al

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Without a row of chemists, machinists etc all running a bunch of engines/transmissions under identical load we'll never have the answer to this one.

I do know that there is much more pronouced gear wear of all the sharp edges, not to mention any clutch discs? in the HST, and the various other metal wearing objects in there that will wear during the first few hours. And that is what you are trying to get out, the fine "dust" that the filter doesn't catch. A lot of us are a bit **** about this I guess, I change the fluids in new cars and trucks at about 500-1000 miles as well. After that about every 4000. I've read studies that say oil (even if it looks ugly) is probably still doing as good a job as new oil after twice that many miles or more. Exceptions of course would be engines under more severe loads. I think there have been some fleet tests that have showed this. Heck I need the excuse to put the car on the hoist anyway so I can look for other happenings.

Cost effective? Maybe not, if you have a spare HST lying around and the expertise and time to switch it out. 50 hours corresponds to what mileage? 1500? 2500? sounds right to me.

(dealer note...how about when I buy a $500 implement from you I get the option to buy 30 gallons of UDT or Super at cost +10%?. That would sure help may your where-to-buy-your-implement decision easier!)

/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
del

 

[gordon]

Ok, I've heard a of a few different dealers doing this process now. Not changing the hydro fluid at 50hrs just the filter or filters. My own dealer even said that changing the fluid wasn't necessary just the filter and clean the screen.

My question to glueguy--did the mech clean the strainer screen as well as change the hydro filter??

Gordon

 

[GlueGuy]

<font color=blue>did the mech clean the strainer screen as well as change the hydro filter??</font color=blue>

Yes, he did all the filters & strainer. Fluid was clean, clear in fact. So clear that we discussed the issue of it being "invisible" on the dipstick.

The GlueGuy

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>… Not changing the hydro fluid at 50hrs just the filter or filters. My own dealer even said that changing the fluid wasn't necessary just the filter and clean the screen….</font color=blue>

Absolutely… probably the most cost effective way… when you pull that 50 hour hydraulic filter… inspect it for metal filings, debris, and contamination… if you don’t find anything… now put the new filter on… if you do find something… now also change the hydraulic fluid.

I honestly don’t know why some hydraulic fluid is $18. – 20. gallon and others pay $4- 6. gallon… other than some convincing marketing.

<font color=blue>… I change the fluids in new cars and trucks at about 500-1000 miles as well. After that about every 4000….</font color=blue>

Most people with brand new automobiles… never ever change their automatic transmission fluid during it’s lifespan{which I don’t agree}, let alone changing it 500 miles after they buy it…

Maybe, I’m from the old school… I know for a fact our technology/reliability has increased twenty fold on automatic transmissions for cars… and I’m told by Ag engineer’s the hydro’s in tractors are not that far behind.

Changing engine oil and filters in tractors is by far the cheapest insurance for longevity and most cost effective… but changing the hydraulic fluid {upwards of 10 gallons @ $20./gal.} is a different animal at 50 hours is absolute overkill… unless it shows contamination as stated above…

 

[art]

Knowing you live in the north east tells me if you are not going to change your oil before fall I would stick with the 10w30 oil unless you keep your tractor in a heated garage. The latest oil CH would be for the lower sulfate fuels they are building for over the road diesels.

 

[theboman]

Oil. Change at 50 hours. It's break in oil in many cases, and in some cases the oil looks clean and smell clean but there are small metal particles inside the oil from the engine. Now, how much is the oil compared to rebuilding an engine?
While I'm on a stump. Clean oil and an not cleaning/replacing (depending on filter types) an oil filter makes dirty oil.

Bluegrass, Pick It Up!

 

[Wheeldog]

John,

I wouldn't be surprised if you are right about changing the hydraulic fluid at 50 hours being overkill. Your issue should be with the manufacturer in this case, since the spec. for the tractor requires that the fluid be changed out at 50 hours. I'm wondering now whether JD and NH have a hydraulic fluid change at 50 hours on their compact tractor maintenance schedules. I can also see how the $$ would start to add up on the bigger tractors with greater hydraulic capacity.

Personally, I find the thought of pulling the filters and strainer without taking the time to crack the drain plugs and put in 3 gallons of new fluid (at $6 or so per gallon) a little strange. I guess I don't have enough experience with this type of equipment to depend on a sight/smell test of the fluid, so I'm not going to take the chance.

Rob

 

[Wheeldog]

Art,

Thanks for the response. I keep my tractor in an unheated garage but I do have a block heater. I would love to stay with a diesel-rated conventional 10W-30, but I'm not convinced that such an animal exists/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif, at least for sale around here.

I'm not sure of your point about the CH rating, but I have been using regular on-road diesel so far.

Rob

 

[art]

I did a little parts bin check cauz my mind isn't what it used to be, I found our better oil to be a CF rating. I don't like a lot of oils as I know some test's qualifications. Do you have a Case-IH dealer near you? They do have 10-w-30 available. With that oil you won't need your block heater unless it's -10 or colder.