5065e Start failure, blown 30 amp ACC fuse

[Rmd8136]

My 2012 5065e started and ran fine today doing some plowing and loader work for about an hour. Turned it off to broadcast some millet seed and intended on disking it in. When I turned key to start, got nothing but red dash lights on bottom right of cluster (battery and charging lights). With jumper cables hooked up, got rattling in starter, sounded like starter solenoid. I noticed the 30 amp ACC fuse blown. Swapped out 30 amp light fuse with ACC fuse and still just rattling starter solenoid. Any idea what blew fuse and why start?

 

[texasranger556]

I'd pull battery terminals and ground strap off and clean everything really well. I had a similar situation on a 50 HP tractor. Jumping it would just clatter the solenoid. After cleaning the battery terminals it didn't help, turned out the ground cable under the battery was the issue. Cleaning and reinstalling it did the trick.

 

[Rmd8136]

Did you replace the 30 amp fuse after cleaning the ground?

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if cold start sensor has shorted out. This sensor has a long history of failure since the mid 90's. I think JD must enjoy the $$$$$$ this failure generates. Disconnect sensor,install good fuse & engine should start. RE503242 Temperature Switch ADD 49.58 USD

 

[MF283]

Agree with all of the above, went through that with my 5303, clean connections & spray the red battery stuff on them before tightening them down.

Ronnie

 

[Rmd8136]

Tx Jim, if the sensor has shorted out will the coolant temp gauge register normal? Should not I would think either pegged high or Low? I know while driving tractor the gauge was indicating normal temp. You are suggesting if shorted when I turned the start key?

Is there a way to confirm it shorted by measuring voltage with key on (engine not started). The reason I am asking is about a year ago I had a problem with starting and same fuse had burned and turned out to be defective starter. There was a JD Product Improvement Program related to the Bosch starters. After replacing the starter, replacing the fuse and cleaning battery and frame ground connections, it ran fine for a year. My temp gauge has been reading fine for a year. That means the last failure was not the temp sensor shorting, correct? The dealer that swapped out my starter part (I installed it) said the defective starter caused the 30 amp fuse to fail?

I hope it is what you are saying. I guess you already answered my question; if I just disconnect the sensor electrical connection and it starts, that confirms what you are saying? While running , what will the coolant temp gauge read with it disconnected?

 

[Rmd8136]

After reading other posts, looks like the gauges work fine but the sensor operates the "cold start advance" function.

if shorting causes the 30 amp fuse to blow, how does that affect the starter? Does it prevent adequate voltage from actuating the starter solenoid? And that is why it rattles (tapping noise) when you turn the key?

 

[Tx Jim]

After reading other posts, looks like the gauges work fine but the sensor operates the "cold start advance" function.

if shorting causes the 30 amp fuse to blow, how does that affect the starter? Does it prevent adequate voltage from actuating the starter solenoid? And that is why it rattles (tapping noise) when you turn the key?

My understanding is RE503242 has no affect/control of temp gauge as temp gauge is controlled by another sensor located in cyl head.

 

[Plantation Paul]

First of all, make sure you have a good battery... Have it load checked. Then good connections from the bat to the starter. If you have that, you should be able to jump it(like in the old days with a screw driver) with a remote switch. If it doesn't work then, pull the starter and make it run with jumper cables..........

 

[Rmd8136]

First of all, make sure you have a good battery... Have it load checked. Then good connections from the bat to the starter. If you have that, you should be able to jump it(like in the old days with a screw driver) with a remote switch. If it doesn't work then, pull the starter and make it run with jumper cables..........

I had my battery tested as " good" and charged it with charger. Installed it in tractor but replaced 30 amp ACC fuse before battery. I unplugged the temp sensor. Tried to start tractor and got 1 click from switch, not starter. Got jumper cables out and connected to tractor. Decided to measure voltage (with digital volt meter) across other end of cables and got 1-2 volts! My positive terminal was arcing if I moved it by hand. I disconnected ground and tightened positive terminal very tight. Those factory lugs are not meant for repeated removal. Anyway that did it! I measure the same voltage across the other end of cables (12.85 Volts) as the battery terminals. Decided to not hook jumper cables to truck. Tractor cranked right up. The bad news is whenever I install a new 30 amp fuse in the ACC fuse block location, it smokes. Tractor on or off, key in or out. The tractor cranks fine with temp sensor plugged in or out! So what I concluded is the 30 amp fuse failure has probably been there since tractor new. If the 30 amp fuse smokes with temp sensor open and tractor off there must be a dead short in the 7 pin connector. I looked at the 7 pin connector and 5 of 7 pins are loose . They wobble if you touch with finger.

 

[sixdogs]

Sounds as if cold start sensor has shorted out. This sensor has a long history of failure since the mid 90's. I think JD must enjoy the $$$$$$ this failure generates. Disconnect sensor,install good fuse & engine should start. RE503242 Temperature Switch ADD 49.58 USD

My understanding is RE503242 has no affect/control of temp gauge as temp gauge is controlled by another sensor located in cyl head.

Go with this first. Find the old threads on it and you'll see it's a common issue that sounds like your problem. May not be but go with the easy answer first. Just unplug as described and see if it stops blowing fuses.

 

[Rmd8136]

I unplugged sensor and no effect on blowing 30 amp ACC fuse. If battery in the fuse blows regardless of key position (run or accessory) or no key in at all. Fuse block at that location hot all the time.

 

[sixdogs]

I unplugged sensor and no effect on blowing 30 amp ACC fuse. If battery in the fuse blows regardless of key position (run or accessory) or no key in at all. Fuse block at that location hot all the time.

Call the dealer service shop early tomorrow morning and describe the symptoms. They will almost certainly help out.

 

[Rmd8136]

I had my battery tested as " good" and charged it with charger. Installed it in tractor but replaced 30 amp ACC fuse before battery. I unplugged the temp sensor. Tried to start tractor and got 1 click from switch, not starter. Got jumper cables out and connected to tractor. Decided to measure voltage (with digital volt meter) across other end of cables and got 1-2 volts! My positive terminal was arcing if I moved it by hand. I disconnected ground and tightened positive terminal very tight. Those factory lugs are not meant for repeated removal. Anyway that did it! I measure the same voltage across the other end of cables (12.85 Volts) as the battery terminals. Decided to not hook jumper cables to truck. Tractor cranked right up. The bad news is whenever I install a new 30 amp fuse in the ACC fuse block location, it smokes. Tractor on or off, key in or out. The tractor cranks fine with temp sensor plugged in or out! So what I concluded is the 30 amp fuse failure has probably been there since tractor new. If the 30 amp fuse smokes with temp sensor open and tractor off there must be a dead short in the 7 pin connector. I looked at the 7 pin connector and 5 of 7 pins are loose . They wobble if you touch with finger.

Does anyone know where the relay is that energizes the 30 amp ACC fuse? I don't see it on my fuse block. Also , I am going to try to find the problem that makes my 30 amp ACC fuse blow every time I install one (if battery connected). According to wiring diagram, the only load on it is 7 pin connector on trailer wiring harness. As I mentioned earlier, 5 of 7 of the pins are loose and wobble if you touch them with your finger. If I measure the resistance of each of the 2 auxiliary load pins with respect to ground ( pin 7 I think), I should see very low resistance if a wire is cut and touching frame compared to infinite resistance if the hot wires are not grounded? Does this make sense?

 

[deere36]

I have a 2015 5065e and John Deere called me last week about a recall involving trailer connector wiring, they sent a serviceman out and he rewired that circuit. I asked him what could happen prior to the rewire and he said it could blow a fuse?

 

[Rmd8136]

I have a 2015 5065e and John Deere called me last week about a recall involving trailer connector wiring, they sent a serviceman out and he rewired that circuit. I asked him what could happen prior to the rewire and he said it could blow a fuse?

Thanks for telling me. I am convinced mine was like this the day I got it. The blown fuse does not affect any other functions. You wouldn't know it unless you pulled the fuse and looked at it or hooked up the 7 pin connector and trialer lights and turn signals did not work. I am going to ask the Deere Regional Service Mgr to repair mine as recall even though outside warranty.

 

[Rmd8136]

Finally found short in 30amp ACC fuse circuit. There are 2 wire connectors behind instrument panel near turn signal. It is on the 30 amp ACC circuit along with 7 pin connector for trailer. It can be used for an aux load or a horn. There is a corresponding pair of spare connectors under hood in battery compartment for a horn. The hot wire behind instrument panel had cut insulation and was caught between 2 coils of the clutch return spring. Once the short was removed by installing new connector and taping ends (since not used). I now have the 30 amp fuse (not blown for first time) and can measure 12 volts between hot and ground wire on 7 pin trailer connector.

 

[sixdogs]

Amazing. Did you find that or the dealer?

 

[Rmd8136]

It was a Deere Tech that works out of his Service truck. He was very good. I was with him so it was very educational. I think I can remove hood side panels, instrument cluster, face plate containing key switch and fuse block without breaking anything, now.