Oil & Fuel 5225: Changed final fuel filter - engine started, then stopped.

[JD5210]

Here is a link were you can purchase it from JD. If you are near a dealer I think you can order it from them save you the shipping.

You might want to look on E-Bay, it might be cheaper.

John Deere Ag - New Equipment: Technical Publications - Publications Search

 

[Creekpaddler]

Thanks for the info about the bleeding procedure and about the tech manual. I just ordered a CD-ROM of it from SelectManuals.com. Decent price.

I removed the hood last night and scoped out the job. Just getting to the point where I can remove the sealed valve cover will take a lot of wrench work: have to take off the air-intake pipes and the hood bracket. Seems like a lot of effort just to get to the fuel lines to crack them. But that's the way it looks now. Oh well... I may just wait for that CD to arrive.

 

[PCABE5]

In your cranking of the engine where did you have the throttle positioned? How long in each burst did you crank the engine?

Be very careful cracking injector lines. If that is the route you go.

 

[kuboman]

Is your fuel tank full? After reading the manual I am not sure I would mess with the injector lines. I did not realize they were buried in the head. I would keep at their bleeding procedure. Is this a common rail system or does it still have a standard injection pump. Make sure it is getting only fuel to the IP. If you can apply some pressure to the fuel tank. Be careful with this as you can rupture your tank and also have fuel blow back when the pressure is released.

I think it is common rail so I would strongly suggest NOT messing with the injectors. Keep at the priming procedure.

 

[Creekpaddler]

In your cranking of the engine where did you have the throttle positioned? How long in each burst did you crank the engine?

Be very careful cracking injector lines. If that is the route you go.

I set the throttle slide about 1/4-to-1/3 of the way up from idle. Cranked for 5-10 seconds. When there was fuel, the engine would start right up.

 

[Creekpaddler]

Is your fuel tank full? After reading the manual I am not sure I would mess with the injector lines. I did not realize they were buried in the head. I would keep at their bleeding procedure. Is this a common rail system or does it still have a standard injection pump. Make sure it is getting only fuel to the IP. If you can apply some pressure to the fuel tank. Be careful with this as you can rupture your tank and also have fuel blow back when the pressure is released.

I think it is common rail so I would strongly suggest NOT messing with the injectors. Keep at the priming procedure.

The fuel tank is full. Each cylinder has its own injector pump; there is no common rail. Today the mechanic at the local JD dealer recommended that I clean the manual primer pump that is mounted on top of the final fuel filter. He believes that should take care of the problem. He also said that removing the valve cover should not be necessary. He didn't suggest applying pressure to the fuel tank, though I didn't ask about that.

In case the engine still won't start, I've scheduled a visit by the dealer mechanic for next week. $$

 

[om21braz]

Don't lose heart, on the JD 4120 I had with, I believe, the 2.4L PowerTech engine - it took at least 10 cycles of pump-up and start attempts to get it running. Far more difficult than other diesels I've changed the fuel filter/filters on, but eventually it started. It ran rough for 30 seconds or so upon initial start-up.

 

[jd110]

You can try pinching off the return fuel hose going to the tank. I have had luck getting them primed this way when all else seems to fail. Also try continuing to pump the primer while cranking.

 

[PCABE5]

I set the throttle slide about 1/4-to-1/3 of the way up from idle. Cranked for 5-10 seconds. When there was fuel, the engine would start right up.

I was only curious. Every manual I have ever read on this type of issue (with your style injection system), i.e. fuel filter change or running out of fuel, has always stated to put it to full throttle while cranking. Then it will chug and shack until the air gets out and decrease throttle as it stabilizes. This was the way my old Cummins behaved after a filter change.

 

[RalphVa]

One time in 25 years of owning our 1983 240D, it would not start after a fuel filter change. The problem turned out to be radial cracks in the fuel line going to the primary fuel pump.

Not long after that, I had radial cracks in the fuel lines to/from the fuel tank, too. Think this was at about 12 or 13 years of age.

These were the braided fuel lines with inside synthetic rubber linings. The lining had radial cracks.

Ralph