5460 rear remotes

[buck12]

I am getting ready to finalize the deal on a Grand L 5460 with cab. I am trying to decide if I need to equip the tractor with rear remotes and if so what type and quantity. I have operated my Mahindra for over 11 years without remotes and the only time I have really wanted them is the couple of times a year I use a box blade to smooth up a couple of hills on old logging roads. What am I missing as to the uses of rear remotes. What is the difference between float and double acting valves? I can guess but want to be sure I understand before spending $. Also, I have read on TBN that the valves on the Grand L series tend to leak down. Does anyone know if Kubota has fixed this issue?

 

[AllByteNoBark]

Watching this one.

 

[oosik]

Doesn't the "L" come with one rear remote. I have one that controls my hydraulic top link. There have been a few times I wished for two or three. Perhaps for tilt & angle on my Rhino 950 rear blade. Otherwise, the one is just fine.

 

[wagne223]

Doesn't the "L" come with one rear remote. I have one that controls my hydraulic top link. There have been a few times I wished for two or three. Perhaps for tilt & angle on my Rhino 950 rear blade. Otherwise, the one is just fine.

Economy L's do not.
I'm not sure about the Grand L's

I opted for 3 remotes on mine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The Grand Ls do not come with any rear remotes as std equipment.

No, Kubota has not addressed the poor quality of their rear remotes on their tractors. If anything it seems as if it has been getting worse over the last few years. This may not be the case, just that now more people are aware of the problem.

I would say that 1 of the reasons to have rear remotes on these tractors is to operate a top & tilt set. This really applies to people that do a lot of grading. The other reason is for all the various implements that can now have hydraulic actuated adjustments as an option.

Trust me, once you start making adjustments hydraulically, you will never willingly go back to manual adjustments.

A rear remote with the float feature is just like your loader valve with it's float feature. Put the valve in the float mode and the cylinder can move in and out on it's own allowing an implement to follow the ground contour just as you would do when back dragging with your loader.

Depending on what exactly it is that you are using the remote for, but there are several tasks where it is beneficial to have the double acting valve with the float feature. The only deterrent to having a valve with the float feature vs a simple double acting valve is the cost. A float featured valve operates as a double acting valve, with the float feature added.

If money is not a factor, I would suggest getting all 3 rear remotes and get all of them with the float feature if Kubota will do that. If not, at least 2 of them with float.

One other thing, if you may have any reason to need a grapple for your loader to move brush, logs etc, consider getting the 3rd function valve for the loader now. Dealers typically will give you a better cost with the original purchase vs getting any of this stuff later on.


Just my :2cents:, good luck with the purchase. :thumbsup:

 

[buck12]

The Grand Ls do not come with any rear remotes as std equipment.

No, Kubota has not addressed the poor quality of their rear remotes on their tractors. If anything it seems as if it has been getting worse over the last few years. This may not be the case, just that now more people are aware of the problem.

I would say that 1 of the reasons to have rear remotes on these tractors is to operate a top & tilt set. This really applies to people that do a lot of grading. The other reason is for all the various implements that can now have hydraulic actuated adjustments as an option.

Trust me, once you start making adjustments hydraulically, you will never willingly go back to manual adjustments.

A rear remote with the float feature is just like your loader valve with it's float feature. Put the valve in the float mode and the cylinder can move in and out on it's own allowing an implement to follow the ground contour just as you would do when back dragging with your loader.

Depending on what exactly it is that you are using the remote for, but there are several tasks where it is beneficial to have the double acting valve with the float feature. The only deterrent to having a valve with the float feature vs a simple double acting valve is the cost. A float featured valve operates as a double acting valve, with the float feature added.

If money is not a factor, I would suggest getting all 3 rear remotes and get all of them with the float feature if Kubota will do that. If not, at least 2 of them with float.

One other thing, if you may have any reason to need a grapple for your loader to move brush, logs etc, consider getting the 3rd function valve for the loader now. Dealers typically will give you a better cost with the original purchase vs getting any of this stuff later on.


Just my :2cents:, good luck with the purchase. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the input. I definitely plan to get the third function on the FEL. I added a WR Long kit to my Mahindra several years ago for grapple use. I am thinking I will add one rear remote for future uses and it will have the float feature.

 

[Fallon]

No they have not as of a few months ago, rear remotes on my L4060 still suck. My TnT sidelink still leaks down in an hour or or so. If I disconnect the QD or swap remotes (now, top use to leak just as bad) it doesnt leak down. They are going to pick the machine up (their dime, I'm tired of hauling it in for this) after mowing season & try yet another couple valves. 1 of my 3 is pretty good finally. #3 usually has mower side shift on it so leakdown isnt an issue (but happens if I put the side or toplink on it).

I'm happy with my FitRite TnT cylinders. Not cheap or quick, but worth it. My dealer tried several generic TnT cylinders. None fit well, most leaked externally badly. I finally got a refund & waited for FitRite.

As many issues as I've had, TnT is so worth it. Mostly for grading, but I can hitch up to a crooked impliment with the quick hitch without getting off the machine. Running a box blade without TnT is like running a race with 1 leg, you can do it, but it's a lot harder & slower. I use the toplink more than the 3pt position control lever when grading.

TnT obviously takes 2 remotes. The 3rd I use for sideshift on the flail mower, lift on the 3pt trencher. I'd like hydraulic angle on a back blade or hydraulic scarfiers on the box blade, but dont have those yet. On the front the 3rd function runs the angle on the snow plow or the hydraulic post hole digger. A grapple would be cool, but I really have no need.

 

[buck12]

I think I will get one remote for future use with a hydraulic top link. I have made it for 11 years with my current tractor with no remotes other than a third function on the FEL. I have to stop somewhere. I started out looking at a 40 hp tractor which has grown to a 54 hp tractor with rear work light and one rear remote and a new rotary cutter. If I keep adding options I am going to price myself out of a new tractor.

 

[Hilbilly]

Maybe different in Canada but my Grand L 6060 came with 2 rear remotes as standard equipment. One has a float function.

It also came with the following standard equipment:
130 amp alternator
front and rear wipers with washers
front and rear work lights
rear window defoggers, including the corner windows.

 

[Fallon]

Maybe different in Canada but my Grand L 6060 came with 2 rear remotes as standard equipment. One has a float function.

It also came with the following standard equipment:
130 amp alternator
front and rear wipers with washers
front and rear work lights
rear window defoggers, including the corner windows.

I got all of those except rear lights & corner defoggers, they were all optional. The upgraded alternator is required for the defrosters. Front cab lights are standard. Here in the US.

 

[DeereRack]

My Grand L6060 didn’t come with any rear remotes. Will be adding it this fall. My Massey Fergusson 1749 cam with one set standard and I miss it mainly the hydro top link.

Came standard with work lights front and back. Rear window defogger. I didn’t even know you could get defogger for the corner windows.

 

[CobyRupert]

.... I am trying to decide if I need to equip the tractor with rear remotes and if so what type and quantity. ....What am I missing as to the uses of rear remotes. What is the difference between float and double acting valves?....

Others can correct me if terminology is wrong, but a double acting valve is usually spring return to center. Cylinder extends or retracts as long as you're pushing lever one direction or another. When lever is released it returns to center position, cylinder is "locked" in last position.

Float valves operates same as double acting valve, except you can push lever beyond its normal operating range to an additional detent position where it stays until manually returned to the neutral center (closed) position. In detent position the cylinder will float. That is, unpressurized hydraulic oil is free to move in and out of the cylinder and the cylinder offers no mechanical resistance. When I use rear blade to plow snow in winter I put the blade's "tilt" cylinder in float so that the blade can follow contours instead of one edge digging in or raising above snow. This is similar to having float on a 3 point hitch tilt cylinder so that a backblade can follow the grounds contour instead of rotating with every bump and dip of tractor's rear axle.

"Float detent" is just one type of detent valve. There's also detent valve that when the lever is moved beyond the normal spring return range to detent position the valve will stay open and pressurized hydraulic flow will be continuous. The detent position on this valve is used for applications like a hydraulic pump or a wood-splitter that require continuous flow.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Others can correct me if terminology is wrong, but a double acting valve is usually spring return to center. Cylinder extends or retracts as long as you're pushing lever one direction or another. When lever is released it returns to center position, cylinder is "locked" in last position.

Float valves operates same as double acting valve, except you can push lever beyond its normal operating range to an additional detent position where it stays until manually returned to the neutral center (closed) position. In detent position the cylinder will float. That is, unpressurized hydraulic oil is free to move in and out of the cylinder and the cylinder offers no mechanical resistance. When I use rear blade to plow snow in winter I put the blade's "tilt" cylinder in float so that the blade can follow contours instead of one edge digging in or raising above snow. This is similar to having float on a 3 point hitch tilt cylinder so that a backblade can follow the grounds contour instead of rotating with every bump and dip of tractor's rear axle.

"Float detent" is just one type of detent valve. There's also detent valve that when the lever is moved beyond the normal spring return range to detent position the valve will stay open and pressurized hydraulic flow will be continuous. The detent position on this valve is used for applications like a hydraulic pump or a wood-splitter that require continuous flow.

Excellent description and examples of the different types of valves and uses. :thumbsup:

 

[buck12]

As the OP, I should have updated the thread. My Grand L was delivered last week with one rear remote with a float valve. I also had the third function added for a grapple I will soon order.

 

[mikescruggs]

I have a L4240 with 2 remotes. One is always filled with the top link. I use the other with the chipper. I am ordering a M7060 with three remotes for a rear blade with three pistons. I believe I can use an electric valve control for two of them since I will still have a hydraulic top link. I believe it is less costly to have three done up front plus they can be financed. I recommend 2 ports as a minimum.

Mike

 

[ericm979]

Trust me, once you start making adjustments hydraulically, you will never willingly go back to manual adjustments.

Yep, that's right. Move a lever while you're operating vs stop, lower the implement, get off and wrestle with the manual adjuster.
Top and tilt also make hooking up implements easier. Between that and extendable lower links plus telescoping stabilizers I don't feel a need for a quick hitch (plus modifiying half my implements to work with it).