5w40 in BX?

[automech]

Anybody running 5w40 in a BX? My manual says to use 10w30 cf rated which is what I've been using. I was given some 5w40 mobile 1 and was thinking of using it in my tractor. Is anyone against using 5w40 even though the manual spec is 10w30 or is the 5 40 better for the motor?

 

[TPS]

Howdy,
I have not used 5w40 in my BX but have read many posts where guys use the 5w40 Rotella T synthetic and it is a good rated diesel oil. I am thinking about trying it because I have read so much good about it ie.engines seemed smoother and quieter etc. especially in cold weather. It should still protect in hot weather as it is a 40 wt at operating temps. It can be had at most stores too. I have seen a few that use the Mobile one also. Be sure it has the diesel rating though. If you do try it let us know how it does for you. I wrote Kubota about 15w40 because my manual stated 10w30 or 40 or 30wt, they said 15w40 was fine but I did not ask about 5w40 at the time. Take care-TPS

 

[RWEST]

A guy here at work's been running Rotella 5-40 in his BX7800 since 50 hours. If the M1 has a "CF" or later rating, I'd have no problems with it.

 

[WilliamBos]

How much protection does 5w40 offer in hot weather? Our 1523 will soon be due for a change, and I am curious about the Rotella, or any other brand of 5w40 syn. MF calls for 10w30. We are still under warranty @ 138 hours.

 

[DieselPower]

Basically at startup it acts like a 5 weight oil and at operating temps it will act like a 40 weight oil. That's why they are called multiviscosity oils instead of single weight oils. Better viscosity characteristics over a broader temperature range.

 

[RalphVa]

If it calls for 10w30, 5w30 or 0w30 would be better than 5w40. The 5w and 0w grades are heavier at startup than the 2nd value grade. For instance, 0w30 is heavier than 30 grade at startup than 30 grade is at operating temperature.

I'm running 0w30 in my 4010 now; the manual calls for 5w30; so 0w30 is better. Mobil 1 came out with it last fall. Got a mixture of 0w30 and 5w40 left over from last year in my Benz diesel. The dealship said they use 0w30.

With dino oils there was concern with going to a very broad multigrade oil because to get there with dino oils required up to 20% additive. The additives would either break down or link together and make the oil more viscous over time. Mobil1 doesn't require any VI improver nor any pour depressant. There's probably some detergent and soot solubilizer, and that's about it.

Ralph

 

[WilliamBos]

Basically at startup it acts like a 5 weight oil and at operating temps it will act like a 40 weight oil. That's why they are called multiviscosity oils instead of single weight oils. Better viscosity characteristics over a broader temperature range.

So a 5w40 will flow better on start up than a 10, and will give better protection with a 40 than a 30?

So should not be a problem with warranty then, eh??

 

[Orange 08]

At operating temperature the 40 will be thicker than 30 but it isn't always more protection. If the engine was designed for 30 you might want to stick with 30.

My understanding the lower number can be smaller with no problems, probably better. Upper number can be debated though.

 

[DieselPower]

The first lower number really only represents performance characteristics at start up. The 5W or 0W will have better flow characteristics than a 10W or 15W. The second higher number is what the oil acts like at operating temp. If your equipment calls for a 30W in your operating ambient air temps then use that. Your not really going to get any additional "protection" by using a thicker oil than called for. If anything you might see a very slight reduction in fuel economy using the thicker oil.

 

[WilliamBos]

The first lower number really only represents performance characteristics at start up. The 5W or 0W will have better flow characteristics than a 10W or 15W. The second higher number is what the oil acts like at operating temp. If your equipment calls for a 30W in your operating ambient air temps then use that. Your not really going to get any additional "protection" by using a thicker oil than called for. If anything you might see a very slight reduction in fuel economy using the thicker oil.

Thanks guys. We are running Red-Line 10w30 in it now, and I think I will stay with Red Line. We have stopped using Mobil 1 because it seems to be good for a while, the it drops like a rock. Red Line is base 5, so for the little extra money, it really is worth it.

How may hours are you guys going between changes??

 

[sw03]

you guys are making this oil debate more then it is needed.

You can use a 15w-40 GrpV and will flow better then a dino 5w-30..Need to think beyond simple grade levels.

In cold, I would use pumping temps FIRST then go to the synthetic and then grade.....

 

[Orange 08]

Arn't most group V synthethic diesel oils a 5w 40? If not listed that way they would probably pass the 5w test. Which manufacture were you thinking of? Group V usually means very expensive.

 

[RWEST]

you guys are making this oil debate more then it is needed.

Isn't that what oil threads are about??

 

[smallfarmer]

Been using Rotella 5w-40 in my BX with no harm that I can find. I have noticed that I have not needed to add any oil as opposed to the 15w-40 dino stuff.

 

[sw03]

Isn't that what oil threads are about??

Yup, LOL and this is why I do not post here on this board much..In terms of oil/lubes, WAY better sites not here....

 

[sw03]

Been using Rotella 5w-40 in my BX with no harm that I can find. I have noticed that I have not needed to add any oil as opposed to the 15w-40 dino stuff.

For me, Rotella is overpimped in terms of price now. I can get a real group 4/5 for about $8 more and to my door.