Tiller 6' Tiller

[blueberryman]

Thanks shvl,

I didn't know there was a TSC store in Skowhegan.

Bluehill nope Columbia Falls 40 miles up the coast from Ellsworth on RT. 1

Rick

 

[hsvhobbit]

Last year I bought a 6' Landpride reverse rotation. We had a bad drought here in Alabama and as a consequence the clay soil I've got turned into a good replica of concrete. We used the tiller to work the soil for my wifes garden and I won't lie, that tiller and my 'bota 4630 worked pretty hard to turn things over (virgin ground). We made a shallow pass at maybe 4" and then followed up with a full depth pass which seemed to work well.

We generated a BUNCH of dust but when we were through, the soil was almost as fine as sand.

One good thing I've noticed is that if the tiller hits a med sized rock (say softball to soccer ball sized) it'll kick it out ahead of the tiller where you can see it and stop the tractor and move it. If you don't want to move it, the rock will just surf along in front of the tines on the 'wave' of dirt the tiller kicks up. Also, the faster you move the tractor, the coarser the finished pass will be, so if you don't want super fine soil, go faster. They do indeed bury the top debris several inches under the surface, just like they claim. You can did down after your done and find the top layer of grass.

 

[bjr]

The CCM & KK's I think are good suggestions. I wish I had a 6' in either brand. Three years ago I converted 58" grey market rice tiller, forward rotation, that I made a new shaft (tube?) for with flanges and put KK tines on it. It's a poor mans KK but it works good and haven't lost any tines yet. I probably put 60-80 hrs a year on it, but some of that in pretty rocky soil. I pull it with a 40 Hp ford 4000 LCG with the SOS tranny (low speed 1st gear). The local KK seller gave me pretty good deal on tines. bjr

 

[Neil L]

Jay,
I am looking at a used Howard 6' tiller with 8-10 hr. I also have a TC29 super steer. In KY/WV soils which are heavy, is a 6' pushing past the tractor or is it more a matter of only bitting off what you can chew (go slowly)? Might I be better with a 5' KK or ???

Bob,
I'm back again, any thing you might offer??

Thanks, Neil

 

[blueberryman]

Neil
If it's built like mine and your tractor is 30 hp I don't think it will even pick it off the ground much less turn it in the ground. My other tractor is a 1250 JD 2wd, 40 Hp. My tiller is a 5' Howard, ( big old hunk of iron about 800#). The JD is light on the front even with 6 suitcase weights on there. It will do a very good job on this tractor but it really more then it should take.

So No I wouldn't consider trying it

Rick

 

[jbrumberg]

Neil L;

I am pretty bored today as I am currently on extended medical leave from work so I googled Howard to obtain some data. Howard attachments appear very solid from direct observation, but I have not yet owned a Howard product. I checked on the PTO HP requirements and tiller weight. The HR-16 series "requires 25 - 65 PTO HP. The
"60" is 70" wide and weighs 703#'s, the "65" is 74" wide and weighs 736#'s, the "70" is 79"wide and weighs in at 1029#'s. THe HR-20 series "requires" 50 - 90 PTO HP. The "60" is 69" wide and weighs 879#'s and the " is 79" and weighs in at 1029#'s.

To begin with I think the HR-20 series is a little too much for a "29", but I think your tractor could handle the HR-16 series. I do not put a lot of stock in PTO HP number requirements as they are one of the manufacturer's ways of protecting his product from liability claims. I do believe the ranges give an estimate from which to determine appropriate size attachment. The "29"'s PTO HP is reported to be 23+ HP. I believe that you could "drive" any size HR-16 tiller in the right soil conditions, but you mentioned heavy and I am assuming a heavy, clay based soil so a HR-16-60 and 70 would be pushing it IMHO (I have a rocky, heavy, claybased soil.). It appears that the HR-16-60 tills a "60" patch within a
70" tiller box which makes a 70" path. I do not think the 703#'s would bother your 3PH, but I would keep the FEL on and/or add some front end weight for balancing out the rig.

Breaking up virgin sod and finding immovable objects puts the most stress on the tiller. As you suggested breaking up sod by tilling shallow would be the best method of starting flower and garden beds. The
second and/or third pass should get you to an 8" depth.

As an aside I really liked the gear driven KKII tiller when I saw one. They appear reasonable in cost, but that is not saying much as it relates to tractor attachments . Good luck!

Jay

 

[shvl73]

Thanks shvl,

I didn't know there was a TSC store in Skowhegan.

Bluehill nope Columbia Falls 40 miles up the coast from Ellsworth on RT. 1

Rick

Nice area! I was right by you, last week, as I drove from Machias to Milbridge. That big blueberry dome building beside the road, isn't yours is it?

 

[Neil L]

Jay,

Thanks for the info. Hope you are mending well and will be up and out for spring.

Neil

 

[jbrumberg]

Neil:

Thanks for your thoughts. "Fortunately" I am "allowed" by all the specialists now treating me (and "wifey") to operate my tractor, but not much else . It looks like I will be out of work for a long, long time , but at least I am alive . Jay

 

[harwill]

Way back up there on page 1, blueberryman asked about interchangeability of tines between various makes of tillers. I've got a 5' JD that works great but is beginning to need a re-tine. JD is $$$. So I got a dog in this fight... What about tine sources? Anybody got any idees?